You might want to post this question in the discussions forum for Azaleas. Here is a link that might be useful: Discussions forum

Yes they can be propagated from cuttings, but it takes skill. They tend to root but go dormant. The skill is not in rooting them, but in keeping them from going dormant (just sitting there alive but not growing). Before attempting such a undertaking, I would research the proven methods. Basically they involve supplemental light to keep them from going dormant. Here are some links: http://www.azaleas.org/index.pl/azpropagate.html#cut http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/ejournals/JARS/v23n2/v23n2-smith.htm http://www.arspvc.org/articles/azaleacuttings.html

I have to say, I have many azalea in my yard, but this one just didn't make it. It was gorgeous when I planted it, came back one year and then just shriveled up and died. I have a true Orange one (sorry, I don't have the tag and don't remember the name) planted right next to it, and it's doing fine. I have them both mulched with pine straw for acidity, but I just don't know what happened to the northern lights

Hello, val1. Choosing a part shade location or varieties is not going to be the issue for you; many people in Zone 4 grow them so I will let them chime in regarding best varieties (Northern Lights, Iron Clads, etc). Your biggest problem is going to be meeting the requirements of rhododendrons by duplicating the places where they normally grow. Planting soil needs to be acidic and must have good drainage (translation: cannot be clay soil). Utah relatives of mine and articles that I have read indicate that your soil is alkaline & low in organic matter but.... I am not sure if you have clay; check with a local nursery if you do not know. To compensate for less than adequate soil, you need to ammend the soil (compost, manure, peat) or use raised beds with acidic soil. Use zero local soil content if you have clay or caliche soil as the tiny plant roots cannot grow through these compacted soils. Planting location will be important and you are on the right track with sun exposure. Protect them also from windy areas that can dry them during winter and summer. And do not expose them to the hot summer afternoon sun. Somewhere between 2-4 hrs is all they need. Dappled sun is perfect. Do not select a location with a lot of traffic or places where garden equipment, garden projects and/or dogs will disturb their tiny roots. Protect them from deer if this is an issue where you live; deer think the flower buds are tasty... Constant moisture, 3-4" of acidic mulch and good drainage are important, specially during your hot summers and during dry winters when the ground does not freeze. Until you get used to their appropriate watering schedule, check manually by inserting a finger 3-4" into the soil; if it feels dry, water. If it feels moist, leave them alone. If it feels wet, determine why they are getting too much water and take precautions. And remember to tweak the watering schedule as your seasons change. When buying the plants that you are interested in, choose those good for zone 4 and inquire about their growth habits to make sure you get one that does not grow wide much. If it does, them compensate by pruning and deaheading. Pruning should be done once the flower show stops. By mid-summer, the plant begins to develop flower buds for the next year so pruning the plant at this time will chop off the flower buds. I added a link below to an article to a Utah State University article. I hope this helps. Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Utah State University Info