Dying Azaleas?

12 years ago

Please help me ID what's going on with my plants. Last summer/fall my azaleas were overrun my lacebugs. I noticed only once the leaves were completely white. In the fall the leaves turned brown and dropped and the bushes looked really bad. This spring the buds are coming in, but only on the top, and only on half of my plants (all of them, which is odd). This does not look normal to me. Are they on the way to plant heaven? Perhaps someone out there with knowledge can help me out? We moved here 2 years ago so I don't know anything about the plants.

Notice how half of the bush is brown and the underside is brown too:

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Close up of the buds and leaves. Some are the old leaves and you can see new leaves too:

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These are the other variety of A's that I have. First is this close up of a flower. Maybe you can ID the variety?

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Again, you can see how just a portion of the azalea has leaves and buds. The rest is woody.

{{gwi:387442}}

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Comments (9)

jay_7bsc
12 years ago
Is it a 'Purple Splendor'? Perhaps spelled with an -our?
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years ago
Azaleas would have to have been infested with lacebug for a long time to be completely white. It is perfectly possible for them to die from that kind of pest takeover. It appears that the new growth is infested, as well.

Are these plants in the full sun? Do you happen to know how long they've been planted?
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It may be that your azalea is having an indignation session after being moved from a snuggly glasshouse to a store to your room. First up - have a look at the potting mix. Often little azaleas are shipped in mix with a high peat content because it's lighter. However, indica azaleas seem to prefer something that both holds moisture - and lets the excess drain away. They are not fond of being deeply planted, or being in too big a pot. You mention that you can see roots sticking out. It is possible that it was poorly planted in the first place and, with things looking a little dire at present it could be worth repotting. The yellow balls you see may be slow release fertiliser balls. They can look ominous. If you squash one there's a sort of shell left and the inside is often semi liquid. If you are going to have a go at repotting choose a plastic container with at least one, thumb-wide hole in the bottom - or plenty of holes. Let it be no deeper than three inches and no more than half an inch wider than the root ball. Choose a potting mix with no water crystals, and little to no fertiliser. Go for one that suits acid-loving plants. Also get some sharp grit that's about 1-2mm (millimetres) diameter. NOT sand. Allow about one handful of grit to two of mix. If you're concerned about mix drifting through the holes - line the pot with a facial tissue. It will let water through and eventually rot away. Into the new pot put in about an inch of your well-stirred mix'n'grit. Tap the pot on the bench to settle it a little. Make a mini-cone of more mix in the middle of the pot. Gently take your wee plant from its present container and let the old dirt fall off. It is absolutely important that you leave the roots alone: no snipping. Trickle in the mix to barely cover the roots. No poking or pressing, please. It's done when the stem is clear, there is a small slope on the mix away to the edges of the pot, and the roots are thinly covered. Now put the pot into a container of tepid water and wait until the bubbles stop rising. Bring it out, let it drain, add a little more mix if watering has revealed any roots. Then cover the surface with more grit - leaving the trunk clear. On the matter of sunlight: I am accepting that Arizona sunlight and summer temps can be more than I get - although our UV ratings are horrendous due to holes in the ozone layer. That being so - indicas will take a fair amount of direct morning sunshine - and like to be in fresh air. It helps for them to get that sun as it seems to greatly improve flowering. If you can put your plant outside during the day over spring and summer - even into autumn - it will be healthier. A north-east location may suit best. They are frost tolerant to around -5C although the flowers turn to mush when it's that cold. What you may find is that you get dieback on the present stem structure and new growth coming from the base of the plant. You will have to start over with reshaping, though. It takes AGES for an azalea's roots to colonise a pot so be knowing that you'll need to take care when moving the plant. No fertiliser until March. Let it get its breath back... When azaleas dry out they can develop leaf gall. It's better to water by plunging the pot as you do when repotting than trickling water on with a watering can because that fine root mass can shed water better than a raincoat. Remember to turn your plant a quarter each week so it grows evenly. Later on - in a year or even a little longer, you can think about putting it back into a formal bonsai pot. There's no rush. Good luck ;-).
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A few things. The shock of planting will make the flowers drop, especially if the root ball is loosened some (which should be done btw). No need to over water. Every three or four days until it adjusts should be plenty. Azaleas and rhodos are sensitive to the chlorine in some municipal tap waters. Either try to use water from a rain catchment system or water if only absolutely necessary. Don't over fertilize or feed.
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Yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins is called chlorosis and is usually caused by an iron deficiency. Many conditions can be responsible for an iron deficiency. Poor drainage, planting too deeply, heavy soil with poor aeration, insect or fungus damage in the root zone and lack of moisture all induce chlorosis. After these conditions are eliminated as possible causes, soil testing is in order. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency, magnesium deficiency or too much phosphorus in the soil. Iron is most readily available in acidic soils between pH 4.5-6.0. When the soil pH is above 6.5, iron may be present in adequate amounts, but is in an unusable form, due to an excessive amount of calcium carbonate. This can occur when plants are placed too close to cement foundations or walkways. Soil amendments that acidify the soil, such as iron sulfate or sulfur, are the best long term solution. For a quick but only temporary improvement in the appearance of the foliage, ferrous sulfate can be dissolved in water (1 ounce in 2 gallons of water) and sprinkled on the foliage. Some garden centers sell chelated iron, which provides the same results. Follow the label recommendations for mixing and applying chelated iron. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis caused by magnesium deficiency is initially the same as iron, but progresses to form reddish purple blotches and marginal leaf necrosis (browning of leaf edges). Epsom salts are a good source of supplemental magnesium. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer. If the soil is too alkaline, acidity may be increased by adding flowers of sulfur (powdered sulfur) or iron sulfate. I add 1 tablespoon of sulfur powder around the base of any plant showing signs of chlorosis. Around established rhododendrons and azaleas, do not disturb the shallow roots. Sprinkle the sulfur under the mulch and then replace the mulch. Do not use aluminum sulfate. Aluminum can build up in the soil to toxic levels eventually. One very common source of chlorosis is when lime leaches out of concrete, such as from a foundation or walkway, making the nearby soil more alkaline. This problem decreases each year as the concrete ages. An annual application of sulfur can compensate for this problem. If you are on the west coast, you soil can actually be too acidic. If soil is too acid, the symptoms can be the same. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. In the western USA where many rhododendrons are planted in very acidic forest soil, an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. Sprinkle the lime on in late winter, very early spring. Don't overdo it - just a light sprinkle. If it is mid-spring, get the lime on right away so the rhododendron roots will be able to take up the soil nutrients in time for new growth. If you don't have rain, water it in well. Here is a temporary tonic for chlorosis: Purchase a bag of Epsom Salts crystals (magnesium sulfate) (available in bulk at farm-and-feed outlets), and a bottle of FULLY Chelated Iron & Zinc (this is a very concentrated liquid - the chelation means it is in a form that can be readily absorbed by the plant); In a one gallon watering can, put in 2 Tbsp. of Epsom Salts crystals and 2 Tbsp. of Iron and Zinc liquid - fill with warm water and stir to dissolve; Sprinkle this over the rhododendron - by that I mean drench the leaves with the solution and pour the remainder around the drip line of the root ball.
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jean001a Thank you, I will be patient and enjoy them in a few seasons.
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afbq
Original Author
12 years ago
No, I don't know how long they were there. Years, I am assuming.

This will be our third summer in the house. THe first year we moved in mid summer and last year was our first full summer (this is our second full summer). I completely neglected our yard last summer. My baby was born in June and two weeks after my oldest son was hospitalized for 3 weeks... so the plants were the last thing on my mind. I noticed half way through the summer that they did not look green but did not get out till a month or so later (and then they were white!). That's when I treated them with incecticide. Maybe I'll do that again tonight.

How can you tell that the new growth is infested?

The plants are in full sun.

thanks for your input!
morz8 - Washington Coast
12 years ago
The lace bug damage is going to be worse on plants in full sun, and if those plants are stressed for other reasons too...your first summer in your house sounds like it was full of distractions (and legitimate at that :))...perhaps not watered regularly?

It would be better if you didn't spray while in bloom (protect bees), and - what were you using for an insecticide, are lace bugs on the label as target pests?

I'm not sure what part of the county you might be located in. In the south eggs begin hatching in late February producing lace bug populations in March, April, and May. A second generation occurs in July, August, or September, depending on location. This generation lays the overwintering eggs in October.

If you are going to spray, spray should be timed for the first appearance of adults or nymphs in the spring just after the blooms have faded. Two applications or more may be needed. Systemic insecticides are most effective, and one application may be enough. Nonsystemic insecticides require thorough coverage of the undersurfaces of the foliage (making spraying more difficult), and as noted, more than one application may be required for complete control.

You have small children, you may have this as an ongoing problem with azaleas sited in full sun and find yourself spraying more than you want to use a chemical in your yard. If you had someplace shadier to move the azaleas, or damaged as they are, even discard them and replace with plants more suited to carefree growing, you might just find your yard with your busy schedule a little more maintenance free, at least while your children are needing so much of your attention.
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years ago
Do you know the name of the insecticide you used?
afbq
Original Author
12 years ago
The bug killer name is Sevin and it has lacebuge listed on the label.

I thought more about how much sun they get and they are shaded until 12:30, 1 or 2 pm (I'm still figuring out, sorry), then they have sun till 6 or so, then shade again. The red one is right next to our door and gets sun till later, but I'm not sure how much. So maybe they are part-sun? (BTW, I'm in MD)

I never did see lace bugs on the plants or eggs (or could not ID them) and so I was only guessing b/c of the white leaves. :s
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years ago
Many people cannot 'see' lacebugs due to their interesting camouflage. What is seen, however, is the result of months of feeding seen by the loss of chlorophyll as well as the blackish fecal droppings on the underside of the leaves. They are truly difficult to spot as they remain very still on the underside of the leaves. You would not be alone in overlooking them.

Sevin is not a good choice for pest control. One reason is that this particular insecticide is well known to cause an unwanted population explosion of other pests, especially spider mites. I wonder if your azaleas might not be suffering from those, too. Sevin is also one of the most toxic of all pesticides to bees and other pollinators. Sevin is also a wide spectrum pesticide and is harmful to any beneficial insects that may be trying to help you control real pests. It's deadly to earthworms and harmful to other non-target wildlife. Last but least, it is a cholinesterase inhibitor, which makes it a true hazard for warm blooded animals....like you.

Sevin should never be used around households with the elderly, those who are on medications that stress the liver (just about all of them), the young, pregnant, men or women trying to have a family, pets....the list goes on.

You honestly have two choices, in my opinion. Azaleas respond wonderfully to what is called "rejuvenation pruning". This procedure calls for cutting the plants ALL of the way back to the ground...leaving stumps no greater than 6 inches (or less). Shocking? Yes, at first, but your azaleas (if they are still alive and have any energy left) will respond with amazing growth in a short time. Pest free growth, as long as you keep up with the lacebugs. I've recommended renovation pruning for azaleas (and lots of other kinds of woody plants) hundreds of times. It can be hugely successful.

Your other option is to clip a few of those dead looking branches to see if your plant is mostly dead at the bottom or just sulking. If dead....they should be yanked and put to the curb. If not dead, cut them to the ground and let them regrow.

I've had the most luck controlling these pests by using applications of horticultural oil at various times of the year. Oil applications must be applied to the underside of the leaves, where the adults, eggs, and nymphs hang out. Horticultural oils are considered safe to use around children and pets. They work by physically smothering the pest (all stages) rather than by poisoning.
afbq
Original Author
12 years ago
I will *never* use Servin again. I love bees and don't want to harm them. :(

I did check one of the lower branches and they are still green. I followed it up to the tip, breaking off at intervals going up, and found that the branches are only dry the top 3 inches.

Once the blooms fade I will follow your suggestion about pruning. I had actually thought about it before, so you just confirmed it.
rhodyman
12 years ago
It sounds like lace bug. If it is, the back side of the leaves will have the bugs and lots of their excrement. If you spray, you have to spray the back sides of the leaves. It is best to move the infested azaleas to a more shady location. You need to buy plants that are suitable for sunny locations to avoid this problem.

Here is a link that might be useful: Azaleas for sunny locations.

Dying Azaleas?

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jay_7bsc

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Dying Azaleas?

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jay_7bsc

rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

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