The one fish per gallon is NOT used any more. As many mentioned each species has needs (territorial, swimming such as danios so on). (re ten for goldfish - Any good goldfish forum will inform one to have a least 20 gallons for each smaller gold fish due to water chemistry needs not just size.) Most fish as well, need both planted areas (some sleep amongst plants at night as well as utilize them during the day) and open swimming space. Like us, they like to move about and need stimulation for good health (read Desmond Morris - Zoologists, (or any of his great books) The Naked Ape on older types of zoos and abhorrent animal behavior due to stress of horrific conditions). Cories do love to swim and in the wild are in huge schools in river systems (hundreds even thousands) like above post mentioned they swim all over if given the space. The larger the tank size the better. That said, some I've had that would do ok with smaller size and schooling as well - but due to size 5-7 at most depending on fish (or plant nice and have a great betta set up, java moss on wood, java ferns on rocks - happy betta!). All need plants (Anubias is great as one doesn't need so much sand, a bit for bio culturing) Some can be on rocks, woods and other floating for cover. Most fish (unless specifically high light fish) like shade from plants due to their natural biotype. Remember, hardscape (filters, heater so on and plants rocks wood) take up space and reduce actual water amount. ............................ Doctor Foster and Smith has a pet education site and list minimum tank size for each species. http://www.peteducation.com/category.cfm?c=16+1911 Fish by type at Foster and Smith: (note the minimum of 30 gallon for goldfish and cory) http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=830 ........................................... White cloud mountain minnow. (cooler water fish from Chinese rivers) Very pretty, now (see Dr. Foster and Smith) they have longer flowing fins as well as original. Plants. (this site mentions danios ok for ten - I would not have a school under 20, long at that as they love to zoom full length like speeding bullets) White cloud: New type variation a real beauty: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=830+881+952&pcatid=952 Longer finned variant: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=830+881+950&pcatid=950 http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=ytff1-yff3k&va=white+cloud+mountain+minnow&sz=all Priscella tetra... unlike some barbs and tetras, very peaceful... needs a school and plants. Two colors, normal and golden (bred). http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=830+890+2747&pcatid=2747 http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=830+1535+2748&pcatid=2748 Black Neon Tetra (not a true tetra but beautiful fish) Peaceful, schooling needs plants. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=830+890+1582&pcatid=1582 Other tetras mentioned for ten: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=830+890 (others on site above as well) Rummynose Glowlight Silver tip Greenfire Diamond Head (pretty) Neons Rasbora (some need more room see link for ten gallon) http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=830+887 Also, how about a moss planted shrimp species tank? ............................................. (suenglee, you need to add to both schools - both of your fish types are schooling fish. Schooling fish evolved to act as one unit and will become stressed and more prone to disease if not kept in schools. (protective/security) So maybe one more cory (I strongly myself over size tanks, under stock and use two filters each tank) so don't add too many for a ten. And at least 3 more tetras. That will be plenty for a ten - again it is water chemistry (bio load) and a ten is not much water all things considered. And all fish need space to swim. Like us in small apartment one goes nuts! I would not add any other species due to tank size and need for schools. (you can mix albinos with normal colors of same fish type though)

Ummm.....if you want to breed betta and or your gouramis....they should be moved to another tank by themselves...The males build a bubble nest and then the female is introduced......then you can observe the breeding actions ...the male will wrap himself around the female....under the bubble nest....if you look closely you will see the eggs float up to the top where the bubble nest is. The female should be removed as soon as they finish spawning...The male can be left to tend the nest and eggs until the fry go freeswimming.....then he can be removed from the spawning tank too....when the eggs hatch...you will see little sticks hanging down from the bubble nest....occassionally they will float down and back up.....this will go on for about 10 days ...then the fry will go free swimming....fry can be fed micro food, micro worms and then newly hatched brine shrimp, then onto regular foods.....Chances are you will not be sucessful in a community tank.... The bubbles may be from the betta or gourami......but more likely to be from your filters. There is too much going on in your tank, to have bubble nests. Sierra

Consider doing some serious research. Asking people for opinions only gets you opinions which are almost 100% passed back and forth so many times people actually start to think they're facts. You're doing pretty good. You already understand no nitrite means no bacteria. You used the term "total ammonia" too which is good. You're already smarter than the average bear. Let's bump it up one more notch. Lets start with the easy stuff. You don't mention the temperature of the water but I have to assume it's pretty cold. Nitrifying bacteria slow down as the temp drops. At 39F they stop. At 46-50F they only work at 25%. So trying to get a bio filter going is a bit silly in most climates in winter. Moving the fish back to the pond has the same issue, no working bio filter. Moving them back to the pond must work cause that must be a safe place cause millions of ponds overwinter fish without loss. Must because of bio filter...right? Nope. A little harder now is the term "ammonia". When pond people talk about ammonia they almost always think of it a chemical. That's a problem. Ammonia in the pond is 2 chemicals, NH3 and NH4+. They're kind of the same, the difference is just ions. But ions are the thing doing the harm to fish so kind of important to us. What's an ion? Forget about it...not important to us. We only care about how to keep fish safe. There are lots of terms for NH3 such as "free ammonia", "Ammonium hydroxide" and probably what most people just call "ammonia". Let's make it simple and call it "deadly ammonia". This is really what scares us. Lots of terms for NH4+ too "ionized ammonia", "ammonium". Lets call this "safer ammonia" because for fish that's what it is, safe. Most tests are for "Total Ammonia" which of course is the total amount of deadly and safer ammonia. So a total ammonia test by themselves tells you almost nothing when ammonia is detected. There are test kits for telling the difference between deadly and safer ammonia but most people use total ammonia tests. This causes lots of fish deaths as people do all kinds of crazy stuff to lower ammonia...which may have been safe to begin with about now fish are stressed by the "fixes". The weird thing is deadly and safer ammonia go together. You always have both. And they change from one to the other in the blink of the eye as temperature and pH changes. As temp drops "deadly ammonia" converts to "safer ammonia". As pH drops same thing "deadly ammonia" converts to "safer ammonia". As temp and pH go up safer turns into deadly. You've been raising pH, or trying to keep it up, and have been cheered into doing so, to get a bio filter going which probably can't start due to low temps. Keeping the pH up is also busy converting safer ammonia to deadly ammonia. For example there will be about 90 times less deadly ammonia when pH is lower from 8.5 to 6.5 at 68F. By letting water temp fall and letting pH go down the fish can be safe even when total ammonia tests are crazy high. My suggestion is to find a ammonia - ammonium chart on the web you like and use that along with your pH test and water temp to determine first if you have a problem. It's likely you don't have a problem...but are doing things that could cause problems. If you have a problem then water change is the best option imo. Adding an ammonia binder means test results will be meaningless and you'll be flying blind. If needed water changes are often you could consider a 24/7 drip water change. Even with treated city water these can work. I also suggest letting water temp fall to around 40F. Converts most deadly ammonia into safer ammonia and almost stops Aeromonas bacteria from growing. I would not let water stay below say 37-39F for days. Lots of people with froze over ponds think the water temp is near 32F but that's another myth. Fish under ice in a backyard pond are likely enjoying a 39F temp. With an above ground tank the water temp can drop below 39F, even below 32F so you have to keep the temp up a little. Low temp also lowers fish metabolism which reduces ammonia production. Natural selection kind of worked this all out for us...as long as we don't "fix" it. I suggest letting pH fall to wherever it wants to be. You could force pH lower if you really wanted to, knew what you were doing, AND actually had a deadly ammonia issue AND water changes were a problem for some reason. Be really careful of people saying pH should be this or that range. They almost never know what they're talking about and are just repeating what they heard from other repeaters. In reality it's almost impossible for normal water sources to have deadly pH levels. Trying to push pH into some made up range with little understanding is more dangerous. Some other small points...size of the tank doesn't really matter. Sure, bigger the tank the slower ammonia becomes of problem...but it's likely to still be a problem. All the rules of thumb on ratio of water to number/size of fish is a bit silly. Just made up number out of thin air. Fish are kept safe with testing and understanding. Most city water now days don't use chlorine but instead uses chloramine. They sound the same so most people think they're the same and give the same advice they did 20 years ago for chlorine. Chloramine is made by adding ammonia. When we add chemicals to remove "chlorine" that ammonia is released which is why those pond products add an ammonia binder. And why total ammonia tests become useless even with temp & pH charts. Adding binders means you have no idea what's going on ammonia wise in the water unless you have specific tests for the binder.

Let them do their thing. I don't switch over to a new mix until I start to see the first buds. Look at the GH feed schedule and you can see why it is the way it is. Vegetative growth is higher on N and lower P and K. Aggressive veg even higher N. Transitioning into bloom, when you start to see buds, P and K get raised. Blooming and ripening, K get raised P stays about the same. More N in the beginning for overall growth. Higher P and K when it start to flower. Raising of K further for fruiting. It can be simplified like this...there are higher N requirements for vegetative growth, P helps with flowering and K helps with fruit production, specifically starch and sugar production. A lot of what you read is weed focused where you are forcing bloom by changing lighting and/or nute variables. Tomatoes aren't like that. If the conditions are good they will start to flower when they are ready. It's when they start that you will need to start to address the higher P and K requirements to avoid issues like blossom drop and poorly developed and tasteless fruit.