optimara 14-12-14 fertilizer -- no micronutrients?
alenka
16 years ago
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fred_hill
16 years agorobitaillenancy1
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Controlled release fertilizer w/ majors and micronutrients?
Comments (18)Hi all. I'm planning on trying the Dynamite (15-5-9, purple container) CRF in my containers this coming spring, using Al's gritty soil mix (Turface, pine bark and granite). I'll be potting up some small 2 and 3 year old conifers (pines, firs and spruces). Question: When mixing up a new batch of Al's soil mix how much CRF should I add per gallon of soil mixture? I want to make sure the trees get all the fertilizer they need for optimum growth without over-fertilizing them. My best guess is about 1 capfull per gallon of soil mix. Also, since the Dynamite CRF has micronutrients I shouldnt need to add gypsum to the soil mix, correct? Thanks! Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Dynamite CRF website...See More14-14-14 Osmocote too much for Adeniums?
Comments (25)Drama and more drama. All pointless. I grow a lot of these. Mine lose leaves like crazy. The lower ones will start to get a little brown, a little pale, brown on the edges and then fall off. Often after we've had a few days of rain they will have a growth spurt putting out new leaves and dropping the old ones. Don't worry about it if the new growth is green and healthy. You're always better putting a time release fertilizer as it's less likely to burn. Just like a time released pill, it's going to release a little at a time. Even if you put waaaaayyyyy too much fertilizer it's still only releasing a little at a time. I've experimented by dumping an entire bottle of time release fertilizer in a potted brugmansia, the recommended in the pot next to it and none in the next pot. What did I find? The 2 w/ fertilizer grew better but no difference in the one with too much and the one with the right amount. I know what a milk glass is and the nickel reference made perfect sense. It's thumb, digit 2, digit 3, digit 4, digit 5. We prefer not to use terms like ring finger or pinkie finger, there is room for misinterpretation, who wants the wrong finger operated on? I don't measure with my fingers, I possess tape measures, rulers and other devices to accurately measure things. I have no idea why it would matter the size in a question like this, very simple is it the rain or is it the fertilizer? Neither factor has anything to do with a lot of the questions that were asked. But I think some people would like the exact age of the plant, the exact measurements of the pot, what time of day? what were the weather conditions? can you weigh the mixture it's growing in and provide exact weights for each ingredient? what phase was the moon in? did you eat prior to adding the fertilizer? what directions were you facing when you added the fertilizer? how much wind? what direction was the wind from? what time did it rain? how much rain fell between 0100 and 0115? What was the temp of the rain? Stupid! My policy is KISS!!!!! And darlin' you did a great job, nice simple question. Tally HO!...See MoreOsmocote 14-14-14 (slow release fertilizer) - adenium obesum
Comments (8)For the sake of having fun with both sides of the issue, I'll play plastic pot advocate:-). Keep in mind I can only speak from my personal experience of growing tropicals in containers here in Oklahoma over the last 30 or so years. What works for you somewhere else in the world may trump anything I might say. All plastic pots is a stretch :-). I use the Rootmaker inc. plastic pot which probably is the best plastic pot in the world. The one gallon pot has 28 holes (actually 56 with 2 side by side) in it and it dries out faster than your clay pots. I've done side by side tests with a decent number of plants to see. The black plastic Rootmaker 1 with the predrilled holes all around the container dry out faster than a red clay pot of similar size in full sun. I grow almost exclusively in plastic. Big plants weigh too much on their own even without the clay pot. I will put some specimen Adenium down the road in very nice very shallow ceramic pots. If I want an adenium to develop a more shallow and wider root span, I'll take a 10 inch hanging basket (I have a bunch of used ones laying around) and drill 1/4 inch holes in it for faster drainage. The 20-30 holes will be on the bottom and on the sides maybe an 1/8 inch above where the bottom of the pot is. With bulb pans I dont bother. I can make a plastic pot drain much better and faster "easier" than I can modify a clay pot. A modified plastic pot can give you a good run for your money. I've got literally hundreds of clay pots I bought at a garage sale about 15 years ago that I don't use. As far as adeniums overpotted, no matter the pot make up, they will rot if grown in marginal soil. Crappy soil is crappy soil. A pot will not make the difference. Personally I think soil is the most important part of what we do with plants outside of care. Containers or container sizes are probably next. 3 years ago I skimped on soil with a bunch of adeniums because money was tight and I paid a huge price. Over half rotted and many were slow to recover. A few with nice blooms I rerooted after I lost most of the root system. I just don't loose adeniums with good soil. Never have and hopefully never will :-). I can put a nice adenium in crappy soil and kill it over the winter unless I'm totally focused on that plant and watch it very close. I can put a another nice adenium in a great soil mix and rarely have to focus as intensely on it as I do the one in crappy soil. Bad soils can hide rot problems sometimes until it's too late. Good soils with good care hide nothing. There's nothing to hide. randy...See Moreumm...i have bought 14x 12 foot conifers that are pot bound
Comments (9)George, let me take a swing at a few of those questions: Firstly, modern tree planting tech involves no fertilizer nor soil amendments at planting. I can provide the exact reasons, but for your purposes at present, I can assure you these two points are correct. Simply backfill with the same soil you removed. Second, all woody plants should be placed such that the root flare-that swollen area where the roots and stem diverge from each other-is at or slightly above grade. Too deep is never good. Yes, if you see circling roots, roots that will put the squeeze on each other or the trunk itself as they grow, you should try to straighten these out as much as possible, such that they resemble spokes on a wheel. Only you can decide how much of this correction is possible or reasonable. It probably does not pay off to totally destroy the root system in trying to accomplish this. But it can be well worth it to attempt to fix the worst of them. I do not believe the old notion that, in order to make up for lost roots, some certain percentage of the top should be pruned away. Plant physiology does not support this idea. All foliage supports the root system. Since root regeneration is job one for any new transplant, the more living foliage, the faster this occurs. I am less certain of the spacing question. I'm not entirely sure what plant you are dealing with. But generally, for screening purposes, plants can indeed be placed quite closely. As they all develop together, they tend to accomodate one another. Planting is quite simple. The farther away from this simplicity one goes, the higher the probability that they are venturing into unadvisable territory! Hope this helps.......+oM...See Morealenka
16 years agohummersteve
16 years agolilypad22
16 years agolarius
16 years agorobitaillenancy1
16 years agobspofford
16 years agoirina_co
16 years agoirina_co
16 years ago
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