Why can't you use the pulley on the Briggs? If not I think one pulley and the key way lock will be fine. Isn't their a bolt up the middle also??

I don't have the pulley stack from the Briggs. That would have been too easy.
There IS a hole in the bottom of the shaft for a bolt which goes in to hold the pulley stack secure. But if I use a single pulley with the set screw it will be in the position of where the upper pulley was on the stack, so that bolt on the bottom will just be there not holding anything. Which brings me back to my concern of if a set screw is enough to keep that pulley from shimmying down the shaft, or if i need to put a collar under it, or ?????. Or just get a stack with a 1" bore, and use the upper pulley I need for the drive, so that the bottom shaft screw holds it secure, even though I don't need both pulleys on the stack.
I don't want to be under there constantly working to keep the drive pulley in position.

Now the details - -
local grainger store; take the pulley from the kaw and tell them you want a identical but with 1" bore. They can probably match it.
to find local store - you can also buy online if you know the details of what you want.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

OK. While I am picking everybody's brains for info, I might as well throw this in now also.
WIRING. What's the best way to go about this? I have a couple of options here I think. When I stripped the donor tractor which was a Craftsman, I took the wiring harness, ignition, cables, and controls. Should I just install the Briggs and re-wire the tractor with part of that harness? I doesn't help me with the PTO, so there will still be an issue there. OR should I use the JD harness, and modify the wiring to that?
Also does anyone know where I can get the wiring schematics for both tractors?
Thanks Again.

I would use the JD connector and on the engine side rewire the engine harness to the JD connector. IMO the wires are usually held in by a clip. It's much easier task if you have the wiring diagrams for both engines. To unclip the wire from the connector you side a small screwdriver blade along side to release the wire with the end attached. Hopefully all you have to to is just slip and plug it into the JD connector it the match.

If not you make have to splice new clips on the end to match the connector you plan on using or cut and splice the wires using a heat shrink wrap over the connection to prevent moisture and corrosion.

If you are going to install the Briggs, I really wouldn't worry about the schematic for the donor tractor that had a Kohler.
What you need to know is what charging system the Briggs has and how to adapt it to the JD.
So, on the Briggs-
What color are the wires coming from the alternator?
IF they are both Yellow, they probably feed to a Voltage regulator and you would take 12V off the 3rd tab of that and feed it to the JD 12V supply.
IF a different charging system, what COLOR are the wires AND connector? Briggs has a LOT of combinations of charging systems. Possibly, the Briggs you have, may NOT be adequate if you have other electrical loads to drive, other than headlights (which may require rewiring on an "isolated" circuit)
It MIGHT be helpful to know WHICH Briggs engine you have. MODEL & TYPE!
Sometimes, one can tell which charging system it has from the IPL, although more often not.
Another thing is- Do BOTH engines have a carb fuel shut off solenoid. They would use the same wire if both are equipped with one. IF the Briggs has one and the Kaw didn't, you would have to supply 12V to it when the key is ON.

I have some ideas. For the sheaves and PTO clutch, check what came on a 240/245/260/265 with the single-cylinder engines. I think they had 1" crankshafts.

For the wiring, the Kaw had battery ignition (similar to a car). Therefore, I'm not sure if it had a "kill wire" (goes to ground when the key is turned off) that the Briggs will need to stop the engine. Getting a 285 schematic will be very important.

Don't forget that finding a muffler is often the hardest part of doing a repower, and is often overlooked. I've seen folks do an awesome retrofit and then have to hack the hood horribly to get some kind of exhaust out.

Before you get too deep, be warned that it's often easier and cheaper in the end to find a scrapped 285 (or similar models like I mentioned above) and making one tractor out of two. JD used a lot of Kawasaki 14hp and 17hp singles in the 1980's, and they would fit up a lot easier than a Briggs or Kohler.

How ever you go, have fun and good luck. Fixing up old tractors is always fun.

Sonny, Go to weekendfreedommachines

Hello, I am looking for a stack pulley that will fit over a keyed 1 1/8" shaft on my new B&S ELS725 engine that I am using to replace my old engine which has a 1" shaft. Therefore I can not use my old stack pulley. Do you still have your stack pulley for the 1 1/8" shaft and would you be willing to sell it. I can only seem to find stack pulleys for 1" shafts for sale. If so, you can email me and we can discuss the other dimensions. Thanks, MR