Rusty,

Einstein said "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results". Once your favorite, honest, auto parts store, locally owned, been buying from them forever proved they know nothing about lead acid batteries other than how to scan the SKU and ring one up why did you think the battery would magically work? Surely you didn't think they had a better charger than yours? A magic battery charger?

Obviously defective with at least one dead cell. No amount of charging will remedy that and you know it as well as I do.

This was covered in detail not long ago right here in this forum a month or so ago and you were part of the discussion... http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tractor/msg1119415328771.html

In the second post I said "I always load test a new lead acid battery BEFORE I buy it. You would not believe how many new(?) batteries fail a load test".

It's admirable to trust people who we've done business with in the past and to hope that our loyalty pays off in quality product and service BUT in this economy it is more prudent to cover your own behind and not assume anyone is competent unless you don't mind an extra few trips to get what you should have received the first trip.

You don't want a new battery from those guys.

Well, they have my money, so i'll try it once more.
I am also going to try a seperate ground strap from engine to frame, in case the ground from engine to frame has lost contact. You know the only ground is thru the mounting bolts, isn't it?
Yesterday, after i got it all connected, and tried to start it, all i got was a slight "grunt" and nothing else. Sounded like it had momentary contact, then lost it. When i connect the batty cable direct to the starter bolt, it will crank well.
So, off to the parts store. Rusty

Could be loose engine mount bolts. Could be corroded battery cables (I've seen them corrode up inside where you can't see it). Could be loose battery cable connections. Could be other things.

Based on your previous posts I expected that you would have checked the obvious before buying a battery.

Diagnostic commandment #1... always start at square #1.

***"When i connect the batty cable direct to the starter bolt, it will crank well."***
If that means you are connecting the "Battery Negative cable" directly to the "Starter Mounting Bolt" and it cranks well......then I would say you are on to something in suspecting a poor ground path.

Does sound like a bad ground,but to check your battery,put a volt meter on your battery and try to crank it,if the battery doenst drop below 10 volts,its ok. A bad battery will drop to a much lower voltage,even 0.

I left the trickle charger on all night. Went down this afternoon-Tractor started up with several turns of crank-shaft. Tried it later-still good. Will try it tomorrow.
RJ

Now you know that the battery is marginal.

Have it load tested and then you will know if the battery is good or wait till is goes bad and then get on the merry-go-round again.

Not sure what brand you're working on but I have had several riding mowers where everything in the entire starting circuit was marginal to begin with. Battery cables too small. Starter relay contacts burn up easily. Battery grounded to the frame. On the last one a brand new known good battery would not crank it over. I thought it was the starter for sure. We replaced the ground cable with a larger and longer cable and attached it to the starter mounting bolt. That cured it.