Semi-Hydroponics, how to

16 years ago

That other thread was getting pretty long, so I thought I would start another.

I am going to try to show you how I do the s/h.

I will soak the s/h overnight (ideally.) Many times I will just put the dry PrimeAgra in the pot and just rinse.

It is dusty.

This is the plant I am going to repot. The top is looking much better since I stop giving so much fertilizer.

This is the pot I am going to transplant the AV to. I will put the Primeagra on the bottom of the new pot.

I will slowly dump the plant into a larger pan.

I wanted to show you the whole root system and let you see that the bottom 1" of the root system is sitting directly in water. I do not disturb the root ball when I move it.

I set the plant into the new container and fill the sides to the top.

I will then rinse the pot with water by filling it to the top a few times and letting it drain out.

I am showing these 2 plants so you can see the holes about 1" up the side of the pot. I rewater the AV's when the water is almost gonewith 1/8 tsp of fertilizer. Around l time per week.

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Comments (11)

bspofford
16 years ago
Verrrrrrry interesting! What is the longest period of time you have had an African violet planted and growing this way?

Barbara
alotofplants
Original Author
16 years ago
I started with AV's around 2 years ago and now I have 80.
There are a lot of pictures of them on the other semi-hydro. thread.
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The method is not generally known in the hydroponics community, it is only an orchid thing, known by few outside the forums so googling won't get you far. I have been growing this way for nearly a decade and give lectures on it at orchid societies etc. It can be argued that if you let the pots go dry then you are not using the technique, and hence the name, but the orchids that need a rest are somewhat of an exception. In a greenhouse you can usually not give them a rest and still get somr flowers. This may be a bit dicy if growing in a house. The plant form and function is not radically different after being grown with the technique, so if you stop watering for the winter, or let the pot go dry through negligence in the summer the plant will not be harmed. In my experience with Den nobile species and hybrids it is the temperature drop that gets the flowers going, and lack of nitrogen that holds off new growth (A cold snap late in spring can bring on flowering of growing canes). Water is usually associated with nitrogen by releasing it from dry organic medium even if you are not fertilizing, so a dry pot means no nitrogen for the plant. The pellets don't hold on to/build up fertilizer salts the way organic medium does because they get flushed each week so it is not that big of a deal if they stay wet a little longer. The pellets hold a great deal of inner water so letting the pot go dry is not really providing the plant with a dry pot. If you flush the pot with fresh water (you can do this a second time in a couple of days if you want to feel better about it) and just let the plant sit it will keep its leaves for a while and photosynthesize until after new years, gaining energy for flowering. When the pot hits critical dryness leaves will start to drop and then you should get flowers on time. The trick is to get the mature canes as much light as possible while its leaves are still on to support production of more flowers. I never got the hang of Den kingianum. They seem to need real stress to bloom, and minw were always in the wrong place and so got watered and fertilized way enough to stop them from blooming. The year I transfered them they bloomend well even though I fertilized them so I'm assuming it was the stress that year.
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Ã¢ÂÂ¢Posted by avsforme 5b One of the clay pellet mixes did have smaller "balls" mixed in but separating them from the biggies would be a chore. LOL Common issue for many hobbyists who are into bonsai or cacti/succulents ... though the sifting in those cases is typically with different materials. If the perlite is the only media, I would think there would be little issue with it breaking down as there wouldn't be the issue with large heavy particulates crushing it. The perlite would need rinsed to wash away any dust-sized particles. While I have yet to try it, you might consider giving "Growstone" a go. It is lighter than the puffed clay but heavier than perlite. Scroll down the page linked to below if interested. I don't see that there is any need to worry about the hydroton pellets "crushing" or "deforming" any plantlets. The plantlets would simply grow past them as they would with any media. It's not like you would be repeatedly shaking the pellets up. The only issue I would foresee, would be one of adequate moisture. If you do have a supply of BB-sized pellets, you might be fine. However, the larger diameter pellets would be far less likely, IMO, to supply enough moisture to keep the leaf alive. Perhaps -- assuming you do use larger pellets -- if you were to keep the water level high enough for the stem end to remain immersed (rather like regular water rooting) until a root system had developed? .... Here is a link that might be useful: Growstone
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Use a true aeroponic system. A true aeroponic system sprays a fine mist on the roots. That produces a lot of fine hair like roots, and uses no growing medium that you would need to wash off to put under a microscope. Though if using tall plants like corn, you will probably need to support the tops of the plants or they will tip over because there is no growing medium to support the plants weight. hex2006 can probably tell you the cheapest and easiest way to build the spray system, using a small air compressor, and a tank as an accumulator/reservoir. The compressor pressurizes the tank, and provides enough psi for a fine mist. Healthy roots should be a nice white color. Foggers also produce real fine hair like roots.
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If you're relying on soil microbes to produce available nutrients for your plants, you're really getting away from hydrponics. Also, the system you're describing, as I interpret it, seems like a lot of extra . . .stuff, for nothing. if you're going to use a dirt basedmedium to grow a plant, why bother with any pump. just develop a wick system then you have no opportunity for mechanical failure. Follow this link for instructions on how to build the system you want. no pumps, just dirt, water, and fertilzer. I intend to build a few of these m'self next spring.
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sheilatse
16 years ago
Sally,

This is a great explanation with pictures. I find it more easy to understand with the pictures.

Keep it up. I like your AVs bloom so well.
violetta1976
16 years ago
Thanks Sally!

For those who are transplanting from soil, I'm putting a link with instructions below. I can't stress enough how important it is to get all of the soil off of the roots. It's a pain, but the roots will rot and the plant will die otherwise.

Here is a link that might be useful: Transplanting from soil
korina
16 years ago
Thanks, Sally, great pictures.

When I grew on wicks, it was common for my AVs to send roots crawling down the wick into the reservoir; it never seemed to bother them, so I just let them do it.

Korina

ÂThe first rule of aliens Â always assume they bite.Â ~Cpt. Jack Harkness
momto3boys
16 years ago
Hi Sally, I have 2 questions about semi-hydroponics for AVs, firstly what fertilizer do you use with this method (with AVs)? and second is it easy to groom the plants while they're in such big pots, it looks like it would be difficult to get at dead leaves. Actually I guess I have 3 questions...Could I use the smaller (3 1/2" I believe) pots from Ray's site for small standards, I think they would look better in a smaller pot. I'm going to reread the huge thread again, looking at your pictures sure is inspiring! I've been reading Ray's site and am very gung ho to get my orchids (and possibly AVs) started on S/H. Thanks! ~Becky~
korina
16 years ago
Um, Sally, I just had a brainstorm. Would you consider writing an article about this for African Violet Magazine? They're always looking for new content, and I'm sure they'd jump at something new like this (well, new to us).

Just a thought.

Korina

PS I just mangled a Ceropegia woodii and wondered if it mightn't have been easier just to cut the roots off the tubers and let it grow new ones. Or would it just die?
violetta1976
16 years ago
Korina, I've successfully rooted a bunch of different plants in hydroton since Sally first started posting. I'm sure the tubers would grow new roots if you wanted to cut them off.
alotofplants
Original Author
16 years ago
Mom - I use regular fertilizer and the same amounts. I have been using 1/8 tsp. because I had over fertilized for awhile. I will just rinse the pots out with regular water once in awhile.
As far as grooming, I find it easier since you can just move the pellets or even dump them. If I have a sucker, I can just dump the whole plant and it won't disturb the roots. Now if I just don't cut the tops off anymore I will be happy.
I don't think the small pots will work. They need room for the roots to grow and you will be amazed at the root systems that form quickly. One thing I will experiment with is when they outgrow the 5" pot, I will try to cut the roots back and see if I can do that rather than going to a bigger pot. I just use the small pots for starting leaves and for starter plants.
The article sounds like a neat idea. I will have to try and put something together.
Violetta is right. I would definitely just put the ceropegia stem in the pellets for rooting. On the Streptocarpella, I just cut the top off the plant, cut back some leaves and put it in the pot. It rooted very quickly. I have wonderful luck with rooting AV leaves. Sally
alotofplants
Original Author
16 years ago
Mom - By the way, I started this with my orchids, moved to my succulents and caudiciforms and then to AV's. Didn't have any AV's because I couldn't grow them. My husband gave me one for my birthday (he regrets that now) and the experimenting began. I now have 80 AV's and am so in love with them. Also, what is really neat is that they do not have to be potbound to flower with s/h. It doesn't matter if they are over potted. It won't bother them in this culture. I have many now that are pot bound and I am experimenting on what to do. Blazing new frontiers. That is why I am so glad others are doing this now because I am not a very scientific person and I am sure someone can do better than me.
momto3boys
16 years ago
Thanks for the info Sally, I printed out the huge thread that you contributed a load of info to and reread it (highlighting what I needed to remember) ,it's a lot of info!! I think my main issue with the "big pots" is it's been so ingrained in out AV lovin' heads that the pot should be 1/3 the width of the leaf spread, it's hard to get out of that mindset. Maybe with your potbound AV's you could take them out and cut down the roots and plop it back in the same size pot, though I wouldn't bother doing it until flowering is inhibited as AVs are well known for loving being potbound.

I think the article idea is wonderful!!! Go for it!!

Semi-Hydroponics, how to

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