This is all great and dandy but how can we apply this info? How can you compare older mowers (before 2008) to the newer ones (2008 onward) to make a decision on what to buy? I have decided to summarize the pertinent information in a very concise way so any consumer can have a starting point for comparison in a SIMPLE way. First, if you have an "older mower" you need to know its effective HP based on its operating RPM. Example: Want to know the actual HP of your older mower? Older mower is 6 HP. Multiply by 0.85 = 5.1 HP ("Real" HP) 0.85 = 3060/3600 (to convert from tested RPM to actual RPM) Too hard to calculate in your head on the spot? Try multiplying by 0.8, then add 0.3 to your answer. This is a close approximation. Want to know the torque of your older mower? First, make sure you know the "real" HP of your motor (as above). Then use the "real" HP as follows: Older mower is 5.1 HP. Divide by 0.6 (or multiply by 10 and divide by 6) = 8.5 ft-lb. Want to know the HP of a newer mower? Newer mower is 7 ft-lb torque. Multiply by 0.6 = 4.2 HP Remember, this is only to give you simple way to do a comparison but it is based on a few assumptions. (They are not important, just to keep it simple.) Don't bother trying to compare size or displacement of a motor shown in cc's for the simple reason that even B & S has the same 190 cc motor that is sold as a 6.75 ft-lb torque model all the way to an 8.5 ft-lb torque model. I hope this helps someone. It sure did for me when I had to buy a new one yesterday. (I registered on this forum just so I could share this.)

Hello fellow surgers. I have a 1996 Craftsman 30" rear engine rider with a Tecumseh 13HP OHV engine. I had let this mower sit for 4-5 years, and went to fire it up. NO GO. So I just did a quick clean out of the bad gas deposits, and the mower fired up and ran, however it surged a couple hundred RPM throughout the entire throttle range and idle. So I cleaned it out again. Just with a can of carb/throttle body cleaner, thought I did a good job, it looked clean to my eye, but that was NOT good enough for it. But it still surged. I said the heck with it and used it for a year or so. I decided to tackle the surge problem again. With no short cuts. Now I was going to tackle it like the multiple hundreds of Toyota carbs I have rebuilt over the last 30+ years as a master tech, and not like a back yard quickie. Troubleshooting: Surging: throughout throttle range. Carb restriction. R+R (remove & replace) and D+A (disassemble & assemble) carburetor assembly. Pull out welch plugs and separate each & every piece from each other. I used: - 1) Factory Tecumseh-Power kit # 632760B - 1) 1 gal. Carb dip can with strainer from parts store. - 1) spray can throttle body cleaner. - compressed air (air in a can for cleaning computers can be used to check passages for flow along with the pressurized cleaners, if you do not have a compressor. - misc) small wires - basic hand tools ( screw drivers, wrenches etc. I used the end of a short socket extension to reinstall the welch plugs and sealing the external side welch plug with touch up paint.) It is best to soak the carburetor pieces in a dip tank for 24 - 48 hours to dissolve and soften ALL of the deposits. Agitated (plunge up & down in tank fluid) every few hours to flush fluid throughout pieces in dip tank Then I use compressed air and torch tip cleaners and or small gauge wires to clear out all passages in each affected piece. Re-cleaned with spray cleaner and thorough blow out everything again. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN! It is critical to make sure the main fuel jet is cleared of all obstructions. NOTE: There is a very, very tiny orifice port in the fuel bowl retaining nut ( a hollowed out bolt with precise fuel ports that secures the bowl to the carb body ) between the 2 threaded areas, is a port called the "idle fuel transfer passage", this is a SURGING problem throughout the entire throttle range, from idle to WOT if this is plugged or minutely restricted. It also has 1 or 2 main fuel ports, depending on model, at the head end that must be CLEAN along with the center passageway. It is important not to accept a "half done" clean out and expect things to run perfect. That is what I did and I got SURGED! After I did a proper clean and rebuild of the carb, the mower runs like it did when it was new. I ran engine until warmed up to normal ops temp. and adjusted the idle mixture (only mix adjustment on my carb). I now have a nice smooth idle and smooth acceleration and WOT (wide open throttle) response. It is now PERRRfect!

Massey Ferguson Lawn & Garden is a brand offered by Simplicity Manufacturing, Inc. Since its beginning in 1922, Simplicity has been an industry leader committed to designing, manufacturing, and marketing premium lawn and garden equipment. In addition to Massey Ferguson Lawn & Garden, Simplicity sells products under the brand names Simplicity, AGCO Lawn & Garden, Snapper, Snapper Pro, Ferris, and Giant-Vac. Manufactured for both residential and commercial use, Simplicity products are sold worldwide by more than 9,000 dealers and distributors. Simplicity Manufacturing is part of the Briggs & Stratton Power Products Group, L.L.C I copied the above from Agco's website.

I have about 150' of moderately sloped asphalt drive in Wisconsin. Been here for 35 years, During that time I have had four tractors, one with a blade and two with blowers. For two years I had a high end Toro walk behind. I regard the blade as a bad call for me. One 15" snowstorm with drifting and I had to pay to have the drive cleared. Just not enough oomph even going downhill (tractor was a big wheeled heavy Case).. The negative about the tractors with snow blowers is that they are a bit clumsy and the season switchover. Other than that they are fast and comfortable (I wear mad bomber hat and ski goggles). That two years with a walk behind left me wanting a tractor mounted snowblower again. Currently I have a JD GX345 with a 42 blower. I love it. First the swapover takes me about 45 minutes including hosing, greasing, and putting away the deck or blower. Working out wheels to move the deck and blower for swapping was a burst of genius for some engineer. Makes what used to be a pain easy, and takes away a big advantage of the walk behind. I have liquid filled tires and 3 - iron suitcase weights. With that and the, ahem, substantial weight of the operator I don't need the chains anymore.. We just had a 5" snowfall here. Some neighbors couldn't do their drives for various reasons--heart surgery, broken equipment, etc.. A neighbor with a walk behind and I did a total of 5 drives , most about the size of mine. I could do three in the time it took him to do one, so we quickly ended up with me doing the drives and him doing the tighter places. Good combo. With my new found ease of equipment changeover, I don't have any doubts anymore as to what works best for me.