"hey walt.you are an smart ass. this is my first time on a forum. wasnt sure what to do, so i had help. at least tomplum wasnt a dick like you. he knew what i was talking about. dont worry, i wont be back." This is common courtesy practiced on all forums I'm aware of and in email. And it is much much easier to read. Capital letters are used in specific instances such as to announce the beginning of a sentence and recognize a name. WRITING IN ALL CAPS DEPRIVES THE READER OF THE ABILITY TO QUICKLY DETERMINE WHERE A SENTENCE BEGINS AND ENDS. And as others have noted, writing in all caps is assumed to be SHOUTING.

Blowing oil bad into carb,I pulled valve cover and rotated engine by hand, not sure if its exhaust or intake valve,the lower one, is not opening.Pulled pushrod and it is not bent,put it back in and rotated engine again to see if pushrod was making contact with cam, not moving at all.What is this a broken or wore out lobe on camshaft and is it worth fixing Thanks

Well, time for the "off the wall" suggestions I guess? :-) Push rods- Is the compression "bump" on the intake valve? IF SO, maybe the steel push rod doesn't expand enough with the heat, (compared to the barrel) resulting in an effective increase in valve lash? Aluminum expands about twice as much per degree as steel. I think that's an avenue worth pursuing. It might be only a few thou difference, but it might be enough. IF that doesn't do it, I swap the starter, unless he's "literate" with a voltmeter. In that case, I'd check for VOLTAGE DROP across the various connections to look for an obvious trouble spots. I'd divide the circuit into 3 sections- 1 Battery + POST to + starter motor POST. 2. Starter motor POST to starter motor CASE. 3. Starter motor CASE to battery - POST. Check voltages with the engine cranking. A "perfect" reading (doesn't exist) would be 0 volts drop. If any (one of three) circuit is excessive, one can then narrow that part of the circuit to its smaller parts. Example circuit 1- Battery post to cable connector, to cable, to connector, (on other end of cable) to solenoid stud, to other solenoid stud, to starter motor stud. Typically, you'll have a lot of small voltage drops (one at each "junction") that adds up to a more substantial total drop. Circuit# 1 tests + side 2 tests the motor 3 tests the ground side. Also make sure starter is well grounded to the block. Am I rambling yet? :-)

Do not throw ANY money at any electrical components until you have adjusted the valve clearances. This engine features the Briggs design of compression release. When the valves get out of adjustment, the compression release is not enabled enough to let the puny little starter spin the engine. The engine turns til it comes up on a compression stroke and it stops right there. Does that sound like what you are seeing? I inferred that is what you mean when you say, "It seems like the blades are engaged but they aren't" ? Valve adjustment is vital on these Briggs engines for dependable cranking, and there is a specific procedure for adjusting them. Here is a link that might be useful: 917.259330 OM