Believe, I'd called B&S and ask the same question. $10/hour isn't the best return!

I feel your pain!!! This is a good example why oil should be checked each time before starting (which you did). If you discover excessive oil consumption, you should determine the cause before operating the engine for more than a few minutes.

If it's any consolation, many people make the same mistake.

I agree that you should contact B&S. It sounds like a manufacturing flaw. A Vanguard should last 1,500 hours or more with proper maintenance.

-Deerslayer

If I liked the tractor I would buy a new engine and install it myself. I doubt it needs a 22 HP engine. Some member here, I'm sure, can tell you where and how much.

I have been having major issues with Briggs/Deere warranty this year. They require you to do a full tear down and photos emailed to them. If any of the machined surfaces, crank, rod journals, rods, cam, etc.. is dull grey etc or metal transfer, they are going to scream lack of lubrication and is the operators fault! You have to prove the oiling system or relief failed before they will pay any warranty.

It would help to know just what component(s) failed in this "Blow up". I have a feeling that it let go of a connecting rod (or 2). Did the engine make any clattering or pecking type noises (before the horrible grinding sound)? Did the engine seem to "bog down" or lose power just before it went kerblooey? Did the dealer describe what parts he found to be broken? Did he indicate any unusual findings (such as mouse nest(s) inside the cooling shroud sheet metal panels)? The engine probably failed due to lack of oil (I know you filled it but it probably lost enough after that to do it in). Low oil can destroy the engine either by causing connecting rod/crankshaft seizure, or by causing a piston to gall and seize in the cylinder, or both. Only you can decide whether you want to find a used engine (caveat emptor) or cringe and buy new (but you do get WARRANTY). For sure, you have a well built tractor, and you like it and the snowblower.

So took one quart to fill the engine in the recent past, and the engine takes about 1-1/2 quarts total. This couldn't have been good for the engine especially if it had been run under any kind of load even for a short time. My guess is that your failure originated from that.

I have had a couple Vanguards stick a rod to the crank. It kept on running but low power of course. Most of the time a customer brought the machine in wanting a tune up because the weak condition..

Quote:
"If any of the machined surfaces, crank, rod journals, rods, cam, etc.. is dull grey etc or metal transfer, they are going to scream lack of lubrication and is the operators fault! You have to prove the oiling system or relief failed before they will pay any warranty."

Hate to say it, but that's the way it should be. Nothing is impossible, but lack-of-lubrication failures in engines that haven't been run low on oil are extremely rare.

EXTREMELY rare.

;-)

Well maybe I get more than my share of broken rods with shiny cranks and rods, saved one for the Area Manager to inspect for himself. I very much dislike the Briggs single cylinder engines. They are loaded with bugs.

If it happens repeatedly, then why would you save only one sample to show a Rep?

Just wondering.....seems counterproductive.

A friend said his Honda snowblower HS624 engine stopped and had to cool down before he could pull the rope again. This happened several times and now he couldn't pull the rope at all. I suspected what it was and confirmed it when there was no oil in the engine.

Priced a new engine today at $525. It's probably worth keeping this outstanding machine, but I feel sorry for him.

I wish Honda made a shortblock.

A good question is "where did the oil go"

Also, any chance someone else used it and put gas in the oil fill?

Another generic question: Any chance you somehow over filled it (dip stick didn't seat properly etc).

You might consider a used engine.

Best of luck :)

It's enough to make you want to install the "Low oil shutdown" on your engine.

honda makes a nice 20 horse twin replacement and they are the cheapest of briggs and kolher top of the lines, but you would probably have to buy a honda muffler which would drive the cost up 100. to 150..

Quote from spring new engine prices were 1149. honda, 1249 18 hp vanguard, 23 hp kolher 1599., tecumsehs are even cheaper and they look just like old red vanguards. these were all vertical engines, horz. run about the same or alittle more. I would just replace the engine myself, I sure if you shop around you could find them cheaper. Or you could try Ebay for aleast half the cost of new.

If you like the Briggs and Scrap Iron singles, good for you. I am embarrassed JD puts them on their machines. I wish they went back to the Kohler Command singles on the L series tractors, way less trouble over all, period.

It's not that I *like* any particular engine, my point was simply that no engine manufacturer should warranty an "engine failure" unless it was a real failure. Warranties only cover defects in materials and workmanship, and are not a "get out of jail free card" that covers anything and everything just because a product is still in the warranty period.

I have people ask me to cover "failures" all the time. Engines run low on oil, with the wrong type of oil, engines run out of level for hours at a time, engines run in dirty environments resulting in the shrouding becoming completely clogged with debris cutting off airflow, etc. etc.

Warranties need to be thought of as a contract between the consumer and the manufacturer. Each party in the agreement has a set of responsibilities to live up to or the whole thing goes out the window. The manufacturer DOES need to cover failures that have resulted from defects in materials and/or workmanship. But the end-user also DOES need to read, understand, and expect to abide by the conditions, exclusions, and limitations contained in the manual. The conditions, exclusions, and limitations HAVE TO be in there....or everyone would expect everything under the sun to be covered.

Most "warranty issues" aren't warranty issues at all. Misuse, neglect, improper maintenance, etc. are most often the causes. When recommendations from the manufacturer, (recommendations for use and maintenance, etc.), are adhered to, the "issues" suddenly go away.

Ask the average consumer WHAT their warranty covers and doesn't cover, and you'll get a blank stare.....despite the manufacturer having included several pages of detailed information about the subject with it. It may sound a bit harsh, but that's the way it is.

;-)

It takes me less than 30 seconds to open the GT/LT hood and look for debris around engine shroud and check the oil level. I do this before starting the engine "every time", just a habit I've developed over 35 years. I usually find "all OK", sometimes add a little oil or brush away a small amount of debris.
I've never had a small engine total failure in 35+ years.
I also check oil and coolant level in car and pickup truck "every time when fillup at gas pump", almost always OK. I've only had 2 total engine failures in vehicles, a 1975 chev pickup 350 ci., manufacturing defect by reconized by GM, not paid for by GM out of warranty 5+ yrs and approx 70K miles. A 1981 Caprice Classic 350 ci Olds Diesel at 107K miles(enough said), out of warranty. I don't buy GM anymore.
I have a JD 2040 diesel, check oil level "every morning" before first start of the day, watch temp gauge come up to normal range before starting to work her.
Good habits saves alot of money and time.

OWNER: Tues. Nov 27, 9:39AM EST. What a great forum and thank you all for thoughts and support. Heading back to the dealer and calling Briggs in about an hour. If only the American Flag had poooped up on the hood, not to mention the little flashing red light. Don't the Chinese like red lights? Keep ya posted in few hours. thanx

Hello All: Everyone in Erie, Pa. today including myself has the flue and colds. Went into the Dealer with a pounding head. Yes, there was the broken push rod and one chewed up part that looked like a muffler hanger. It was round and nothing in the middle. What do I know, looked like cap that holds push rod? Dealer has not torn the top. He is committed to typing up statement for me and sending copy to B&S with pictures. I think oil system failed. $ 1,000 to rebuild and $ 1500 to install new engine. Would be nice if mfg would help with a few bucks. Im going to install new engine and sell this Conquest/100 hrs in the spring and get a Hydraulic Prestige. My arm has been sore all summer from that manual'Gold Plated 2stage that I luv so much. You guys are the greatest in here...Regards,

Something i have noticed today and in days past, from working on engines, etc.
Some folks get in a hurry when changing the oil. When they start pouring the oil in a top load dip-stick tube, the oil fills the tube quickly, and i think thats when some folks think it is full, and stop pouring in the new oil!
Or, they don't wipe the stick after each dip, and that sometimes shows lots of oil when there isn't enough! They don't let it drain down and settle!
Of course, there is also the other problem--a sticking carb float, stuck down, which allows fuel to fill the carb and run into the crankcase. A leaky needle valve seat causes that too.

Hi,

Instead of the Briggs and Stratton, why not get a Kohler with the pressure lube system and oil filter. I replaced a 13 hp Kohler with boocoo hours with a 15 hp for $600. As I understand it, the bolt pattern for the B&S and Kohler are the same and the crankshaft diameter are the same as well.