May I suggest you pot your Sharry Baby in a fine medium, maybe seedling mix. Put some slow release fertilizer on top of the medium and grow it in medium light (dappled sunlight). The spots on the leaves are natural on this Onc, so no worry there. It should give you many new leads and flower on every new lead, given sufficient light. In south Florida it blooms in the Oct Nov timeframe with the rest of the Onc alliance.

The Accordion shaped leaves are a direct link to the lack of watering while the plant was in growth. The lack of flowers are a link to the plant not getting enough light. I only post to things I have and I have 3 Sharry Baby's. One I almost killed from over watering 3 years back so I mounted it( My easy solution cause I have HIGH humidity). Another one is in a true orchid pot(The UNglazed clay pots with slits), the 3rd is my 1st attempt wit Semi Hydro(SH) with any ONC. All get approximately 60% sunlight( Probably to much but they thrive where I'm at in latitude). Sharry Baby is a Hardy and Prolific plant. They need less watering in winter(Aprox once a week) And more watering in the spring/summer or whenever new growth starts(aprox twice a week). Light levels should be around 2000FC a day for a min of 4-6hrs. When they get more or less light they will let you know by either tinging red/purple or not blooming...The pic you posted appeared to be a nice bright area, keep it there and see what it does this year. I'm with everyone else for the repotting into an unglazed pot and this is the best time of year to repot too. Once in it's new home stick to a watering regime. Humidity isn't too much of a factor with this plant but how and when it's watered is. Drench it in the sink whenever you water it and FORGET about it in between. Between that and more light, you should see masses of blooms in early\late fall!!!

Most of the roots come out between the time when the new growth is half grown to full grown, and slows a bit once the pbulb starts to "inflate". I try to repot all of my oncid during that time because the new roots go right in and become established on the peices of medium. Once you pull the plant and take off the old medium the efficiency of the roots diminished dramatically. They can't pull moisture from damp peices of mix and only take in water when they themselves are physically wet. Therefore you tend to overwater the new mix in the new pot trying to keep the plant looking good. You don't have that problem if you repot at the right time, and you can trim a lot of the oldest roots off to make room in the pot for new ones. Growth is in cycles (more so for orchids with few pbulbs) divisins) and if the plant is not growing nothing you do will make it grow, and if it is not growing it isn't because you are doing something wrong. It may take a while, even until next spring, until the growth cycle comes around if a plant is in bloom now (hopefully not).

Lisa, Where DO you live? The way I read your outside growing conditions it is moss and lichens conditions.......☺. Your inside conditions sound pretty reasonable. I'm suspecting your SB picked this problem up and you did not notice it until you had spread it around by misting. If all the leaves and (at least some of the pseudobulbs) are showing the problem), I would suggest.....Take the plant out of the pot so it can dry completely...Remove all-yep, I said all the leaves right down to the top of the pseudobulbs, and remove all affected pseudobulbs that you need to right down to the rhyzomes (don't sever the rhizome unless absolutely necessary, or you find a natural breaking point and want to divide the plant). Spray the entire thing with a good fungicide (I no longer grow on a large scale, so am not up on what is available) Hopefully someone will help us out here, or check with your local agriculture university service, or a co-op store or good local ag. retail store. lay the plant out where it can dry quickly, and watch it closely. If the problem stops, wonderful......wait at least a week, maybe two.....no water......trim out any bad roots, and then repot in clean wet mix and don't water again for another week, then only water the roots. The plant will either put out new growth, or the disease will continue and you will loose the plant at some point along this process. This is radical treatment I know, but here hobby growers have a huge advantage over commercial growers. A commercial grower would have removed your plant to an incinerator immediately, and probably sprayed the area with fungicide. They can't afford an infection, nor the time for individual treatment. Hobby growers, on the other hand usually consider their plants more like pets, and can and will do what ever they can to save one. The process and experimentation is a great learning experience for anyone interested in keeping up with your progress, so be sure to let us know the outcome of what ever you decide to do. I wish you the best in this one. I've been there, done that, and you should see the collection of T-shirts I have hanging in my closet........ Bill