Is JD X500 PTO Clutch Adjustable?

11 years ago

My X500 is exhibiting symptoms of PTO clutch slippage. After a couple of minutes of mowing, starts chirping, then squealing, then smelling like hot rubber. I've pulled the deck, cleaned it up, greased the spindles (and they turn freely), but symptoms repeat. After cooling off, it works again for a few minutes, then repeats. Previous mowers I've had have had 3 bolts on the clutch that allow you to adjust it, but I don't see any such adjustments on this one. Is it toast?

Thanks

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (12)

bill_kapaun
11 years ago
To me, that sounds more like a belt slipping, with the burnt rubber smell.
0
GoldWinger
Original Author
11 years ago
I'd agree except that the only belt that gets hot is the main drive belt from the clutch to the deck drive pulley. Belt appears to be in good shape and tension looks right on it. Couldn't a slipping clutch be heating up and causing that belt to get hot?
0
Related Discussions
john deere stx38 pto wont engage
Q
Comments (32)
Hey folks, so I'm posting this follow up in my original thread because I think I have a related problem. Last year, I replaced the PTO drive belt and the mower blade drive belts on my inherited JD STX 38 Yellow Deck. Today I took the mower out (NOT the first time this season) and had some serious issues. First of all, the grass is tall - 18-24 inches. I had the mower height set to the tallest height. The grass may have also been slightly damp - although not wet. I was able to cut basically one path, then I realized that although the PTO was engaged, the blades weren't cutting the grass. I was going at the slowest speed (first gear) and even tried cutting using only 1/2 of the mower deck width at a time - no help. I took the mower back to my driveway, cleared out lots of old clumped grass from the blades, and started the mower and the PTO. The blades were definitely turning. I turned off the mower again, and noticed that the PTO drive belt is looking terrible - it's all pitted and slack - it's not tight around the PTO shaft! So, my theory is this: the PTO drive belt is shot again (Although not broken yet) - so the blade spin when I'm not trying to cut anything, but when I come in contact with any sort of grass of substance, the slack belt is "slipping" and resulting in the blades not cutting? Does this make sense? Solution: replace the belt AGAIN???? A few more things to note: 1) I tried cutting shorter grass and drier grass and had very little luck. 2) why would my PTO drive belt, just replaced a year ago, be so shredded already? That's worrisome... any advice would be appreciated. thanks.
...See More
Considering a John Deere rider. What are the different PTO system
Q
Comments (17)
5 years ago, I bought a new JD L110 with a 17.5 hp Kohler engine and a 42" mulching deck for about $1750 from a JD Dealer to cut my 1.5 acre up hill bumpy lawn with a septic field up top. I got it because Consumer Reports had said that it was the best all-around for the dollar. It worked great with a beautiful cut until the septic field and a contractors fertilizing made the grass so tough, the engine bogged down as if it was gonna stall, especially over the septic field, and really bad if I missed a week due to rain. By the way I threw away the $200 double bag grass catcher because I got tired of getting off the tractor and dumping them every 7.5 minutes. I went to a Kubota dealer to find out what a real tractor was and how I couldnÂt afford one, but some farmer had traded in his JD G110 w/ a 25 hp Kohler engine and a 54" mowing deckÂ I bought it used, with no warranty for $2000, and at first was happier the way it had no problems with the thickness of the lawn. It also carried my over 300 lb. body uphill and cut much faster in that it turned my 1 hour and fifteen minute weekly task into about 50 minutes. The blue smoke the used G110 was blowing when I test drove it was to mean later that I had to put about 3 to 4 hundred dollars into it for repair, and apparently, I was lucky, because it could have been much worse! It seemed the farmer, believe it or not, didn't change the oil much. But the main problem was that with the 54" deck it had did not cut the grass as nice as the smaller 42" deck with the rounded mulching platform. It made "Wind Rows" that did not seem to go away even after going back over it again, because my grass grew so fast or something. A salesman told me I may have to cut it twice a week (NO WAY). So, bottom line, it was taking longer to get the grass cut with a 54" deck than with the earlier 42" deck; almost twice as long and it STILL didnÂt look as nice as before! I added a mulching kit to it, installed by the dealer, even after their warning that I may get clumping. I did get clumping, and my wife never lets me hear the end of itÂ..The tension spring on the belt/pulley system broke 2 weeks ago and I went to the dealerÂs parts dept. and bought another one for $6 because their Spring back-log for repairs was over 2 weeks wait. I spent about 3 hours getting it on the deck. This new spring worked for two mowings and broke. Now, with rain, I have monster grass and no way to mow it. My wife almost bought a $2000 Cub Cadet at a box store out of desperation yesterday just to get the grass cut. So now, 5 years into this monster lawn, and two JDÂs later, we are looking at our 3rd one, an X300 or X304, to solve my weekly woes on this lumpy lawn. Oh yeah, by the way, when it was graded, the man did not do a very smooth job and my back and I wish my tractor had shock absorbers, but we can not afford the Kubota, or a real John Deere. I will probably trade in the G110 for a X304 next weekend, and peeve that I am trading down from a 25 hp Kohler w/ 54" deck to a 22 hp Kohler w/ a 48" deck, albeit in the new "stronger" X Series, but my wife wonÂt mind, because there will be no more "Wind Rows" and clumping (HOPEFULLY!). She doesnÂt have to do itÂ.she naps on the couch while I mow! I guess sheÂll nap a little longer, because I will be out there a little longer now. I hope the clumping and rows go away then, and I really hope to have less annoying repairs. I imagine, though, that they all use the same spring. Wish me luck if you have no good advice I can use.
...See More
Deere x500 or x700 series?
Q
Comments (28)
1*My situation is that I don't need to run anything off the PTO or 3pt hitch, I have a larger Kubota tractor for that. 2*However, the reason I am interested in the x500 series is the ability to lock the rear differential. 3*Just tonight I borrowed a used x540 from our local dealer. 4*seems to get very good traction. 5* However, I noticed that engaging the mower deck results in a loud noise and very noticable drop in engine RPM - is this normal? Thanks! dbk123 **************************** *********** 1* 2*After owning a Bolens 850 GT for 41 years as of this month I've deduced that Additional weight is a far better traction getter than a locking differential.I doubt If i've ever engaged the Diff. on the ole Bolens half a dozen times. 3* 4*It Should as it's bigger and heaver that most garden tractors. 5* normal I'd go with a JD 445 or 455. I would also take a look AT the CC 2500 and 3000 series.
...See More
PTO switch bypass????
Q
Comments (22)
The funny and not so funny - I sprayed quick start in the engine but that didn't help. It turns out the gears on top of the starter that engage with the engine were not making good contact. It appears over time that they have been ground down. I have noticed this before when the starter had gotten locked in the up position = in the engine gear. So I tried to adjust the starter to move it closer to the engine. Some of the plastic housing on the starter was cracked (heat)?. I put duct tape around it and tried to use duct tape and a popsicle stick to make one side of the starter higher so when I screwed it back on the mount it would be cocked/tilted toward the engine. After playing around a bit that worked. The starter now engages the engine and can still lower. Luck would have it that when I finally got it started and let it run for 10 minutes (with the engine cover off) that I forgot to put the engine oil dipstick/cover back on. So oil was spaying everywhere. It looks like I may need a new starter down the road b/c I'm not sure how long my temporary fix will hold. I am bad about turning the starter when the engine is still turning trying to get it started. This is probably why by starter gear is so damaged. Thanks Mownie and Bill for your help. Mownie, email me at nycjsw at yahoo (dot)com.
...See More
bill_kapaun
11 years ago
IF a malfunctioning clutch was getting hot enough to start burning the belt, I would expect the clutch to be dead first.
Anything is possible.........I guess.
0
GoldWinger
Original Author
11 years ago
I've checked both of the deck belts and they are cold. All spindles are slightly warm. Only belt that is more than slightly warm is the belt from the clutch to the drive pulley on the deck. I'm not positive it's a 'hot rubber' smell, but definitely something hot. Is it possible the clutch is slipping, getting hot, and producing the smell? I have watched the clutch belt when I hear the 'chirping' noise and it does not appear to be slipping. As a sideline, I've had problems activating the clutch this past week. Had to flip the switch on and off a few times to get it to work. I noted from other posters on this forum that is usually an early symptom of clutch problems. Thanks.
0
mownie
11 years ago
Do you know if the mowing system on this tractor has a "blade brake" built into the PTO clutch?
The blades must stop within about 3 seconds (federal mandate) after the blade drive is disengaged.
Some OEMs build the blade brake into the deck pulleys configuration while other OEMs are using a PTO clutch that has the blade brake function built into it.
If your PTO clutch has a blade brake built into it, there are a couple of things I can think of that "might be" causing the symptoms you are seeing.
1, the PTO clutch is defective.
2, the PTO switch (or other items in the circuit) has become worn to the point that the internal contacts are "chattering" (for want of a better term) and so the clutch is attempting to disengage and re-engage rapidly (chirping?)

The fact that you are having trouble getting the PTO to engage now could be pointing to either a defective PTO clutch, or a defective PTO switch.
Beware that the second scenario could be caused by ANYTHING in the PTO clutch circuit that has (or makes) a poor connection between the PTO switch and the clutch itself. This means that a loose fitting wiring connector (maybe at the clutch itself) anywhere in the wiring harness might cause the kind of electrical "chatter" I described.
Some PTO circuits employ the PTO switch itself to handle the electrical load of the PTO clutch. Some other machines use the PTO switch only to operate a relay that carries the actual current load to the clutch. If a relay is used, scenario #2 could also be caused by a loose connection in the relay or related circuitry.
Eliminating any switches or relays to isolate the problem could require hooking a temporary jumper wire connected to the PTO clutch wire port on the clutch (after unplugging the OEM wire). If one were to opt for this as a test it would be necessary connect the wire to the clutch first and then connect the other end to a battery positive point after starting the engine. If a 12VDC power plug is featured on the dash board, that would be an ideal place to connect the top end of the jumper wire.
If no 12VDC power plug is featured, I suggest that a jumper wire be made up that includes a 20 Amp fuse along with a simple single pole toggle switch to be connected to the battery + post. Tape any exposed terminals on the switch.
In lieu of an actual toggle switch a simple "male/female" wire connector pair could be used to connect the jumper wire together for the test, though it would a bit more cumbersome to use than a flip switch.

Before I resorted to doing the jumper wire test I would certainly do a thorough visual inspection of every wire connector from the PTO switch all the way to the PTO clutch to be sure that all those are secure and free of any corrosion and that there are not any signs of burning/melting of the metal terminals or the connector body.
0
tomplum
11 years ago
Good info. In addition, it is a good idea to verify that the clutch bolt is also secure on these. One would assume no powerflo nor any oil leak?
0
User
11 years ago
Have your battery load tested. A marginal battery can cause some odd PTO behavior. Check battery cable connections on both ends of both pos and neg cables.

Dirt, dust, and grass in the PTO can cause some odd smells too.

There have been (rare) occurrences reported of the clutch bolt unscrewing and/or snapping off on JD Select Series lawn and garden tractors so check that bolt.

I can't find an adjustment procedure or specification anywhere in my X500 tech manual so I don't believe there is a gap adjustment for that model PTO.
0
User
11 years ago
"Hot rubber smell" and "imminent electrical failure smell" can be VERY similar.

If you have a marginal battery or a loose or dirty electrical connection or bad ground the resistance at the PTO will rise and the temperature along with it.

Could be your PTO is on its way out but I'd check the things mentioned in this thread BEFORE I bought a PTO.
0
GoldWinger
Original Author
11 years ago
Okay, battery failed the load test so I replaced - 6 years old, about time anyway. However, I still have the problem - but I think I've isolated it to the deck idler pulley - the one attached to the pivot - as the service manual describes it. When I run the deck a couple of minutes, the chirping, then squealing starts. I shut it off and touch all pulleys and that one is hot enough to burn the fingers - so I'm guessing it is the culprit!
0
User
11 years ago
Good guess... you gotta lube that idler and the pivot. It gets overlooked because there's no Zerk to call attention to it.

Take it apart and see if it's scarred or galled. Replace or repair and lube.
0
GoldWinger
Original Author
11 years ago
Oh, I'm sure it's a replace, not a repair. Once I figured out it was the problem, I watched it and it was hopping up and down about a quarter inch. I'm sure the bearing is gone. Service manual says to grease the pivot but doesn't mention the idler. Thought it was sealed. How do you grease it without a zerk? Can I replace it without pulling the deck? Thanks...
0
User
11 years ago
Much easier to pull the deck and it only takes minutes to drop.

I use Bel-Ray 6in1. It's GREAT stuff sold at motorcycle shops. I dribble a little around the shaft every so often and it does the trick.

Great stuff for contact lubing anything.
0

Is JD X500 PTO Clutch Adjustable?

Comments (12)

bill_kapaun

GoldWinger
Original Author

Related Discussions

bill_kapaun

GoldWinger
Original Author

mownie

tomplum

User

User

GoldWinger
Original Author

User

GoldWinger
Original Author

User

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Is JD X500 PTO Clutch Adjustable?

Comments (12)

GoldWingerOriginal Author

Related Discussions

GoldWingerOriginal Author

GoldWingerOriginal Author

GoldWingerOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

GoldWinger
Original Author

GoldWinger
Original Author

GoldWinger
Original Author

GoldWinger
Original Author