For me, freeze damage is a threat every spring. I know pretty much nothing about persimmons, but I do know grapes are extremely sensitive to cold once they have started to grow. I've seen plenty of damaged grapes here. At my place, any time the air temp drops below 40 there is danger of frost (I've seen frost when the lowest temp registered on my thermo was 39 degrees). If they get frost on the new leaves they are gone. Sometimes the shoot is fine if the leaves get zapped, but sometimes the whole shoot dies. Often they will push secondary buds after a week or two, but they are not as fruitful. Luckily spring is usually slow to warm around here and that keeps them from budding too early (mine are still just at the bud swell stage right now). Also late pruning can delay bud break. Grapes are the only thing I've suffered much damage on so far. My other fruits are not nearly as sensitive. I got 26 degrees last year when my peaches were in full bloom and still had a good crop. I got worried because the flower petals appeared to be damaged. Sweet cherries managed the 26 degree event as well. They were maybe a few days further along than my peaches when the freeze hit. Apples seem to flower late enough to miss the hard freezes. I know apricots are more sensitive, but I don't even try to grow them here.

dibbit posted this on another thread and i thought it answered your ? perfectly. The latest from the Master Gardeners/Polk County Extension agent is to wait at LEAST 3 weeks after the frost before pruning out any "dead" stuff from your woody plants (trees and shrubs) - 4 weeks would be safer. Then cut back until you get live wood - i.e.; the cambium layer just under the bark is green. If you REALLY can't stand looking at them, then you can carefully take off the dead leaves, but be REALLY careful not to damage the buds that will be the source of the new leaves - do it SOON, before the new buds start growing. Perennials, on the other hand, you can clean up now. Water if the ground is dry, DO NOT FERTILIZE, and keep a close eye on the plants that had to leaf out again, as they should now be considered stressed, and thus prone to disease and bugs in the next summer.

There are many different kinds of rose cankers. Some are slow to spread; others are fast . When I have had a stem or cane go black, they have been the worst kind of canker and when I didn't react quickly, I lost the rose. That said, in my opinion your rose is very sick. If it were mine, I'd cut below the black half an inch and then I'd clean by cutting tools with bleach, leave the bleach for 30 seconds, dry the blade and then cut another half inch lower. IMO you really want to get rid of what may be (something some of us here called) creeping black crud. In your first photo, you have what appears to be a good healthy green cane maybe a half inch in diameter. BUT to the right there's a stem that is black. That black stem IMO has infected, and affected the cane below it that supports both stems. I think you need to lose that good looking cane because the support area is already dead on one side and will only get sicker. IMO you need to cut that support cane off until you get pith that is alive (Compare the colors as you cut down a stem- you will see a change. This is one of those situations where you can learn a lot about how roses respond to problems and what you can do to try to direct their growth.

It will sprout. Both of mine outdoors in our mild summer climate came back. The in ground from a 2012 or 2013 freeze grew two new branches,and the larger(first photo) from 2017's very wet winter is just sprouting now. They usually sprout many more branches then will eventually grow 2-3..the left overs wither.