You might remove infected plants or plant parts and spray with sulfur to slow or stop the spread of the fungus (may be difficult in wet weather). Watch for volunteers that spread from infected seed. Promote air circulation in the garden--stake plants that can be. Anthracnose fungi can survive winter on seeds, weeds, and crop debris. When harvest is over, compost or discard all crop remains. Here is a link that might be useful: HarvestToTable.com

Do not under any circumstances plant a Sycamore anywhere near anything you want to not be destroyed by roots. Plumbing, sewer lines, concrete slabs, retaining walls...all will be destroyed by the roots of the Sycamore costing you immense amounts of damage. Then there is the leaf drop which after a fall windstorm can produce drifts of leaves many feet high, all of which are a fire hazard. Then there is the high allergen factor of Sycamore Pollen. Then the tree is also prone to rot on the inside, so that the tree falls on your house when you least expect it. What's worse is the tree is hard to kill even after you've cut it down, ground the stump, burned it, dumped round up on it, it'll still grow back. The only thing a Sycamore tree is good for is firewood and maybe woodworking. We recently bought a property with 7 Sycamores on it and so far they've cost us about $50,000 in damages. I've cut down half of them, the others will be gone by the end of the year.

I'd be very reluctant to confirm a diagnosis of anthracnose without seeing photos. It is not all that common in typical home landscape settings although periods of wet, warm weather could certainly encourage it. I'd post a few photos that show clear indications of whatever malady they are suffering OR take samples into your local extension office. Anthracnose is a pretty serious issue. After confirming an ID, I'd begin by removing all infected flowerheads and cleaning up any fallen leaves. Good garden sanitation is very important. And you can spray with a chlorothalonil-based fungicide, like Daconil. Most anthracnose problems are pretty strictly plant-related.....dogwoods don't get oak anthracnose and hydrangeas don't get maple/sycamore anthracnose, etc., but azaleas DO share the same family of anthracnose fungi so I guess it is possible it could spread to the azaleas.

Mostro, This comment: "when I don't spray, the leaves never even form and the stem does not even elongate more than 1/2 inch or so" plus the fact that you said copper does not work makes me think it might not be anthracnose that is killing your new growth. I had the same problem with newly grafted julie mangos. At first I thought it was a fungus because of the same problem you described but copper was not working. I then sprayed the plants with sevin and the problem was solved. I do not know the exact cause of the problem but because sevin worked I assume it was probably some sort of insect. Maybe you could give sevin a try before you go to the systemic fungicides.