Wow. You guys sure cover alot of ground in a short time. Two days ago I had a couple of doctor appts, then I dropped my phone in the toilet and had to spend a day getting a new one and learning to use it, and by the time I got back to GW, y'all had moved on and on. So I sat down to write some stuff anyway - ok, alot of stuff - but I forgot I had accessed from my email, and when I tried to post the whole thing disappeared in a puff of "error, error." Don't have time to write the whole thing again, opportunity will present in the future I'm sure, so just wanted to address a couple of small matters. Al, yes, I'm very interested in porous mixes, because I'm interested in helping people grow plants successfully, whether just a few to beautify their homes, or to get into it as a major hobby. Thanks to you, I now have another subject to research. (Having come late to the internet, like 6 months, I find myself almost overwhelmed by the possibilities of inquiry, research, and questioning - damn you, internet genie)(Just kidding. I love it) Anyway, I want to set straight a misconception that you mentioned upthread (love that word). Maintenance, as in "professional plant maintenance" doesn't mean maintaining a plant at a particular size through contorted horticultural practices. It means maintaining the plant's appearance/beauty as long as possible. When the plant grows too big, if it can't be pruned or trimmed, it is replaced with one of the specified size. The removed plant is used in another account - the usual action - or it is given to the customer or the plant tech, or it is offered for sale to the public at reduced cost. BTW, look for interior landscape companies under 'plants' in local directories to see if they have any good bargains available.

The formulation of most "root stimulators" contain some fertilizer & B-complex vitamines + others..... They are useful in promoting existing root growth. Rooting Hormones (IBA + others) Stimulate initial root formation & growth. (Root formation is quicker with the hormone) Water.... there are 2 types of roots one that will function in water & the other in soil. When using water must transfer to soil as soon as the first root hairs START to form. Soil.... use well drained soil. keep soil damp not wet. Keeping the humidity high is important. This can be achieved by. reducing the draft, using indirect lighting, forming a tent around the cuttings AND/OR mist the cutting several times a day. some air circulation is needed to prevent fungal groth on soil or plant.

There are so many variables - soil type, atmospheric humidity, temperature and some others - that it is very hard, probably impossible, to come up with rules for watering. IMHO, 2 gallons or so per week delivered by soaker hose is not likely to be nearly enough unless there has been a great deal of rain. The browning needles are likely an indication of too little water. It isn't tremendously accurate, but reaching down to the root ball with your fingers and testing for dryness is better than relying on some sort of formula. If the root ball feels dry to the touch, water it with a hose. 45 minutes as the tree guy said seems pretty reasonable and I doubt very much if he was talking about 45 minutes worth of soaker hose. Another thing that is very helpful for summer planted trees is to spray them with a fine mist such as that produced by a Fog-It type nozzle. This lowers the temperature, increases humidity and slows transpiration of moisture even if none is directly absorbed. This can be done several times a day. For large trees at this time of year and assuming decent soil drainage, under watering is usually a greater danger than over watering.

Should not have done??? Heh heh...you really asked for it. You should not have seeded in June. On the plus side, you do live near the Atlantic coast of Maine. It might actually survive! You should not have added 3-4 inches of anything unless you're filling a hole 2-3 inches deep (accounting for settling). You should have rolled the seed down with a water fillable roller to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. 20 minutes with an oscillator might be too much water. All it needs is to be moist and not soggy. You'll have to judge that for yourself.