Most likely the solenoid needs to be replaced. That's about the only thing that could "stick". (since you already replaced the key switch) Cranking the starter for even 15 seconds can overheat and ruin it.

sounds like a starter solenoid staying in "contacts closed" mode (stuck).

p/n is 146154. Look at sears webpage at rhis link:

Here is a link that might be useful: electrical parts list

Try this. You might need a helper for this because the seat will have to be occupied, also, the park brake must be locked down. You will need a volt meter to test with. Disconnect the small white wire from the starter solenoid, connect the volt meter red lead to this wire and the other lead to a good ground on the frame or engine. Have your helper turn the key switch to the START position while you watch the volt meter. The meter should show battery voltage. Have your helper let the key return to the RUN position, the volt meter should return to zero volts. If the volt meter returns to zero volts at this time, the starter solenoid is defective and needs replacing.
Replace the "starter solenoid", item 43 on pages 34 & 35 of the OM. Sears part # 145673, but it does not have to be obtained from Sears, nor does it have to be THAT part number. Any well stocked small engine shop or outdoor power dealer can have the same solenoid on their shelf, though it might be under a different #.
If the volt meter continues to show battery voltage, the solenoid is not the culprit, and further tests will need to be made. If, by chance, the small white wire remains energized after the key is allowed to return to the RUN position, tell your helper to remain on the seat and leave the key in the RUN position for a few minutes to determine if the fuse will blow BEFORE the key switch is turned OFF. If the fuse does not blow, have your helper turn the key switch to OFF (while remaining seated). If the fuse does not blow and the white wire remains energized, have your helper vacate the seat. The fuse should blow now (if it hasn't already). Try all these suggestions, and report back. Of course, if the first test shows a defective solenoid, you don't need to do all the other tests.

Here is a link that might be useful: 917.271080 OM

Between having to answer the phone, chase the new kitten away from the curtains, and fix a bite of lunch, you guys beat me to the draw (and, I type slow). But I'm glad to see a consensus on the starter solenoid. I hope stocks29 will post results of the findings on this. Feedback is always welcome.

Thank you everyone for the great feedback. My helper will be here around 9pm (EST) tonight so I'll try the volt-meter test and post back my results.

Thanks again!

OK, so I tried the tests. When the key was in the START position it showed voltage. When we dropped the key to the RUN position it continue to show voltage. When we turned the key to the OFF position it continued to show voltage. To me, this means it is a problem with the ignition switch. Does that sound right? Strange thing is that I just replaced this last year... I supposed I could have gotten a defective one.

We tried the other tests too. The fuse did not blow at all. The white wire did not remain energized either. I'm assuming you meant the white wire that comes off the ignition switch. That correct?

Does this sound like a starter switch to everyone or are there some other tests I could try?

***"I'm assuming you meant the white wire that comes off the ignition switch. That correct?"***
stocks, are you saying that you checked the WHITE wire.....at the key switch? and with the WHITE wire still connected to the key switch? ?
What I said was, "Disconnect the small white wire from the starter solenoid, connect the volt meter red lead to this wire and the other lead to a good ground on the frame or engine...................." If you did not DISCONNECT the WHITE wire at the solenoid, you have not done an accurate evaluation of the solenoid or wiring....yet. The white wire on the key switch travels through the clutch/brake pedal switch AND the PTO switch on its way to the starter solenoid. To add another twist to that, the seat switch influences the PTO switch decision too. So there are 3 switches that affect the starter solenoid operation besides the key switch itself. You have to disconnect the white wire AT THE SOLENOID and do the test on the loose end of that wire, then report back. I'm reluctant to condemn the key switch until I know you are doing the test right down to the letter. If you want, I can reconfigure the tests into a more concise, step X step "flow chart" that you can print and carry to the tractor. Then you can go down the chart and decide what's next as you do the tests. Post back please.

> If you want, I can reconfigure the tests into a more concise, step X step "flow chart" that you can print and carry to the tractor.

That would be great... I printed out the previous directions you gave me but apparently did not follow them correctly so I think this would be very helpful.

I never disconnected the white wire from the solenoid as you pointed out. I'll have to look a bit harder cause I didn't see a white wire going to the solenoid -- only the red one.

Thanks in advance for the directions :-)

OK, I'll format it that way and post it shortly.

I hope this comes through well enough to be of use. It is a jpeg file. You can utilize what ever technique you normally use to save it and/or print the image. I generally either RIGHT MOUSE CLICK > SAVE PICTURE AS, and put it into a folder, and then do whatever it is I'm gonna do with it. Or, if you just want to print it, rest your cursor on the image until the options menu appears. Click on the printer icon. (Your actions and results may vary)
This solenoid should have 4 wires connected to it, as follows. 1 big red cable that runs from battery +, one big red cable that runs to starter, one small white wire from key switch circuit, 1 small black wire that runs to a ground point of attachment nearby.

{{gwi:347783}}

Thanks so much. I'll be trying this later today and I will post back my results.

Thanks to the owners manual I finally found the solenoid and then the white wire that connects to it. I removed this wire from the solenoid... but here is where I ran into a problem with test...

The battery on the tractor is dead from the starter continually cranking. I have a charger but when I hook it up there are two issues:

1. I cannot have someone sitting in the seat while the charger is hooked up because the battery is under the seat and therefore the seat must be flipped up for the battery to be charging.

2. When I turn the charger on the starter starts cranking even with the key in the off position AND the white wire disconnected from the solenoid. Does this mean the solenoid is the issue and that further tests are not necessary?

If this does not prove anything, is there any foreseeable way to workaround these issues?

Thanks in advance!

BINGO! Replace the starter solenoid. No need to test further. That the starter becomes energized without the white control wire connected is proof enough of a stuck solenoid. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and let the battery charge while you go through the R&R solenoid procedure. If the battery has been hooked up all this time, you may expect it to fail soon. It has been through too many deep discharges throughout this ordeal.

Awesome! Part has been ordered. I'll post back after I replace it and confirm that the issue is resolved but I trust it will be.

Thanks for all your help!

Replacing the solenoid resolved the issue. Thanks so much!!!!

Good news, good results, good luck.