The University of Missouri has a system called Missouri Gravel Beds that was designed to hold bareroot trees for all season planting. The gravel beds are pea gravel and turface which is quite close to gritty mix. Considering they use that system to hold 12 foot trees and gritty mix holds more water, I think gritty mix can work just fine for bareroot trees. It will definitely be easier than barerooting a cotainer plant.

This late in the season, I would strongly discourage you from mounding your plants with soil (especially when considering the atypical weather patterns in your area this year, plus the length of time the plants have already been in your garden). Your question about how long to wait deserves an answer, so I venture to offer this: If you've seen no signs of life by the summer solstice (that's 2 wks + 1 day from now), it's a virtual certainty that your BPIs are goners. That gives them a full month in your garden -- and that's a full month under conditions that were less than ideal to begin with, and are becoming less hospitable with each passing day. What was the source of your bareroots? Were they shipped to you by a recognized supplier, or did you purchase them locally? Whatever the case, if they don't break dormancy very soon, I feel you have grounds to request a refund. I hope you'll keep us posted. We're wishing you good luck with those two . . .

In short, if this is your first attempt, it is more risky doing it now vs. waiting just before Spring. But if you must do it, it must be done. But I've barerooted many container citrus in all months of the year. Some respond extremely well, most just languish for a few months without growth (but flush just fine the next season), and a small few decline (I've only lost one healthy tree, that was when I root pruned at the same time). I try to be as careful as possible to avoid root loss, but obviously one reason for those declines was my handling. Tip: Do as much removing of original soil, gently, under-water in a tub. If it's a larger rootball, get a friends help to hold each side when moving it. Make the sure soil isn't overly wet either as the ball could split and the weight of the soil tears roots. IMO I would do the cool/shady spot (wherein receives a few hours of morning sun, no afternoon sun) for a couple weeks vs. days. If you see decline within the first two days and it doesn't perk back up immediately, there was either a mistake in putting the bareroots into the mix or there was rootloss. You must be sure to put the mix inside, between, over & under each individual root (OK, not every root, but you get the idea). >>> I would like to know who even started the rumor that citrus do not perform well without humidity? Hi Mike ;-) I think this particular comment was regarding "recovering from bareroot repot, in the high heat" a citrus tree should perform better vs. a dry environment which I would also support. And yeah I drive by hundreds of acres of citrus groves here in Central CA which is technically a desert @ It must've been that Florida Citrus industry who started the rumor!

I agree with Sheila - most of us use the opportunity of planting a rose to do some spot enhancing of the organic material in our soil. I agree that top dressing with organic material is the best long-term solution to improving the soil, but as a short term boost for the soil mixing in compost or something else organic has been very effective for me. I contrast beds where I have been planting roses this way for some time, and the soil in the entire bed becomes this lovely textured and rich soil that I can dig in with my fingers, while beds that I only top-dress haven't worked in that organic material very deeply yet even though they've all been planted the same amount of time. Having said that, you don't have to amend with anything if you start out with good loamy soil like you describe, so there's no particular need to do as much as you've done or certainly to add anything more. For me, the second set of additives is a bit more effort than I want to put in but it sounds fine being all organic and slow acting. The one thing you don't want to do in any new planting is add fast acting fertilizers which for me include most granular fertilizers. Biotone and other organic fertilizers break down more slowly and don't run the risk of burning sensitive feeder roots. I simplify your latter list and add just manure, alfalfa hay, and something to lighten the soil that I can buy in large bulk and relatively cheaply (lately it has been cotton burr compost). My preference is to add no more than 1/3 other substance to the existing soil, since you want the rose to get used to the conditions it's going to expect from here on out rather than getting hooked on any particular amendments at the outset. You've obviously been successful with 1/2 supplements so go with what works for you. I always soak bare roots and you'll find a majority of us do the same, and a majority of the vendors specifically recommend soaking the roots. The principle is to make sure the rose is adequately hydrated to handle the transition to the ground. One look at dried out husks of body bag roses indicates how important hydration is for bare root roses. Cynthia