Thanks everyone! That's a lot of information, and all good. I have (after a LOT of searching on the internet) found a nursery in a neighboring town that carries the E.B. Stone products. So I think I'll take a little trip next week up to Modesto and get some of that. They have it in a 3-Lb. box and also in a 10-Lb. bag. I did consider the sharing-with-the-neighbor idea, because our neighbor has a large lawn, in front and back, (we have none) - but he also has back trouble, and he's so nice that I know he would try to help with that 50-Lb. bag and probably hurt himself. Good idea, though. In fact, all these ideas are good. We are moving to Sacramento sometime this year, and I'm clipping some of these answers for future reference (who knows what young and helpful neighbors may await us?). Thanks again!

alfalfa is a growth stimulant .. i cant remember the active ingredient ... it was all the rage in the hosta world.. a decade or so back ... and frankly.. its the mouth end.. of what come out the back of the horse.. undigested ... it is also rabbit food .. and the one time i spread it ON TOP.. i attracted rabbits.. who got really pissed off.. after it was gone ... and started eating the garden .... many would call that a rabbit LURE ... plus the idiot golden retriever ate a bunch.. and had gas worse than a horse that night.. incorporate the granular.. if you wish.. but dont leave it on top ... MANY peeps use to to brew a tea.. and use that to water.. you might try the search function and relate the words to hosta.. and see what you get ... try the link ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

Yes. The pellets are easier to find and cheaper to purchase in my experience and they work well. If you water them right after they are put down the pellets disintegrate and become easier for the plants to digest. If you don't water them they become good rabbit food--which is what the pellets are used for by people who have rabbits.

Storing whole grains requires some thought. Use mylar bags that are sealable, in 2-3 lb units, and put them into a 5 gallon sealable tin can or plastic bucket. Each mylar bag should be flushed with CO2, before sealing to purge oxygen. Alternately you can use Nitrogen. and you can use an oxygen absorber, a 50 cent sized disc that contains ground or powdered Iron shavings. These above items prevent weevils and beetles from hatching. Spoilage from bugs is bad news, and is grains are only edible if you are in a famine situation. Next place the bags into a tightly fitted metal can You can even use a new metal trash can, since the individual mylar bags will allow you to pull a usable amount out at a time, and leave the rest intact. Tape the lid tightly. this will keep rats out. Can's as small as 5 gal tins, are usable, and a plastic bucket works fine, except for rats, which will gnaw through the plastic and mylar in a trice. Buying only what you can consume in a few days is short-sighted at best. In an emergency, stores will run out within hours of all commodities, crowds will be dangerous, and anything left will be rationed.