the LA series are LAwn tractors as well. the only thing that concerns me about any of it is tha tyou have such a hard slope. that will wear out any lawn tractor tranny in a couple years. if you must stay in the above listed tractors, then go for the garden tractor. the hydro will be stronger and will handle the hills better.

aerators do not count as ground engaging. plows, disc, cultivators, box blades, etc do.

i just looked up that LGT, it is a YARD tractor. a little tuffer than teh lawn tractor, but not rated for ground engaging.

youshould check out sears. they usually run 10% off sales every weekend. you may even find a decent return tractor tha tis a step up from the ones you are looking at yet still int eh right price range.

craftsman/husq/poulan/etc are all the SAME machines. they may have different decals and colors, but they roll out the same factory.

Seems everyone I've talked to thinks that the "GT" in LGT2654 stands for Garden Tractor (which makes sense to me). Regardless, I don't have huge plans for ground-engaging work. But, will that beefier machine be better suited to my needs or would I just be paying $500 extra for a 6" wider deck when the YTH2348 could handle everything I've listed?

Thanks,
JBreits

Here's a simple test.

When someone who claims to be in the know about the machine they are trying to sell you says that "GT" stands for "garden tractor", then ask them if Husqvarna sells a sleeve hitch or three-point hitch for that model. If you cannot buy a factory hitch, then the tractor is just another lawn tractor and not a garden tractor.

True garden tractors are designed for ground-engaging attachments and those attachments rely upon either a sleeve hitch or three-point hitch to hook on to.

Based on your post, either tractor will cut your grass, pull a cart and aerator plus blow snow. I'd go with the best money deal I could get since your budget seems to be key. With proper care and servicing, you should get ten years out of either tractor, regardless of the hill you have to climb. If you are concerned about the trans-axle, then ask someone in management at the big box store to get you the make and model # of the trans-axle in both machines. Post that information here and one of the trans-axle guru's will tell you how robust each one is.

Horsepower is pretty much irellevant to your needs and the six inch wider deck will reduce your seat time marginally.

Still slightly confused. The Lowes product buying guide for riding mowers states that the LGT2654 is a Garden Tractor and can accept ground-engaging attachments.

Aside from this confusion, it sounds like the advice is to go with the YTH2348.

JBreits

The LGT2654 will accept a sleeve hitch. IIRC it can take the same one that fits the Craftsman tractors. It's classed as a very light duty garden tractor, and I think even the Husqvarna website listed it as capable of doing ground engaging work (currently the LGT2654 page has the description for the YTH2454, clearly a mistake).

FWIW, I think the LGT uses a beefed up Tuff Torq K46, not exactly garden tractor class. It's a nice tractor for mowing and is a bit more capable than the upper end JD LA models, but I wouldn't consider it for anything more than occasional ground engaging use.

BTW, I have the YTH2348 and it's been trouble free for nearly two seasons now. I'm completely satisfied with it and it sounds like it would do the tasks you mention. Plug aerating or dethatching don't usually count as "ground engaging", and any lawn tractor will tow a cart just fine. Both the YTH and the LGT should do snow plowing (the guy who sold me my tractor wanted to set me up with a plow, but it doesn't snow enough here to be worth it), but you'll want to add tire chains.

Here's the link to the Husqvarna sleeve hitch. It says it can be used with 2007+ LGT models.

http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/node3254.aspx?nid=53327&pid=78532

the k46 is NOT a GT tranny. TT classes it as not for use in ground engaging work. i can tell you that it is a tough tranny, but i would never use it again to pull implements that dig. yes, i said again because i used a SH on my L130 for 1 summer. that tranny would literally smoke when i was done.

have you looked into a decent USED machine? you can get and older REAL GT for less than or about the same as the listed price range. and get a much better machine.

as far as the comment abov eabout it lasting 10 years, NO MACHINE at that price level will last 10 years on hilly acreage. sure, in a suburb lot you can expect it IF you do proper maintenance, but on acreage with hill they jsut won't last. they are built INTENTIONALLY to be replaced. manufactureres want to get as much new product out as possible, and if they build the low end machines to last that cuts into future sales.

If significant ground engaging work is needed, the only tractor close to the desired price range is the Craftsman DGS6500 which has a beefy Tuff Torq K66 and rund about $2600. After that you're really looking in the $4000+ range for a new GT.

OK. Thanks for all your replies. You've all been very helpful. I don't have big plans for ground-engaging, but it would be nice to be able to do just a little bit if something arose. I guess it all depends on what the job was.

I would like the machine to last a while though. I don't just want to throw $2000 away every couple years. I'm fairly mechanically minded (although no engine genius) and have some relatives who are GREAT with engine work (especially tractors).

What exactly is it about the hilly terrain that will lessen the life of the tractor? Is it just because it will be working too hard to get up the hill? What I mostly mowed downhill? I really can't be spending 6000-7000 on lawn mower.

Thanks,
JBreits

If I were in your shoes, I'd go for the YTH2348 and save the extra $600 to spend on renting a real tractor to handle your ground engaging work.

The reality is, even most garden tractors (JD x500 for example) are only suited for limited ground engaging tasks. They'll reliably plow or till a field, but you could rent a Compact Utility Tractor (CUT) that would do the job better and faster. Unless you plan on doing ground engaging chores with some frequency, you'd be better off just planning on renting a machine that could do the job when you need it.

"When someone who claims to be in the know about the machine they are trying to sell you says that "GT" stands for "garden tractor", then ask them if Husqvarna sells a sleeve hitch or three-point hitch for that model. If you cannot buy a factory hitch, then the tractor is just another lawn tractor and not a garden tractor."

Just curious, does JD sell a sleeve or 3pt hitch for a GX345?

"The reality is, even most garden tractors (JD x500 for example) are only suited for limited ground engaging tasks."

i have an X500 and it outperforms the older Craftsman GT i have by a mile. the tranny is heavy duty and the frame is stout. i agree that a bigger machine will get the job done faster than any GT, but for most folks who need to do small GE jobs, a GT is all they need.

"Just curious, does JD sell a sleeve or 3pt hitch for a GX345?
"

bill7, yes they do. they even sell a 42" hydraulic tiller that operates via the rear hydraulic lift.

FWIW, I bought a YTH2348 at the end of July. It's been great. Handles well (16" radius), cuts through anything without bogging down, very safe and stable, and it sips fuel once you break in the engine. Cut quality is very good, just be sure to align the deck properly and make sure the guide wheels are set right on the deck. Transmission is very easy to use and responsive.

My only complaint is the mulching "block" (more like shield) is poorly designed and requires bungee cords to hold it in place, at least until the warranty expires and I can drill some mounts on the deck and the shield and bolt the two together.

I do everything you need it do and more. Use it to haul a cart, aerate (though I have not done that this year, our neighbors does it just fine, as did my old, dinky MTD), and dethatch. I mow 2 acres as well, but most of it is our neighbors yard, which is a hilly hell. Probably about the half the yard is a pretty treacherous series of 20 degree + slopes. A good tip is to go up the lightly banked parts, and down the steep ones. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the tractor and is safer

The only thing I have not tried is snow work, but that is because my walk behind YardMachines Gold blower gets the job done fine. Not to mention you would need to take off the deck... In fact, with that kind of stuff (includes tillers) I find it easier and cheaper to jsut rent the walk behind stuff. Doing a little walking never hurt anyone while working ;)

I can cut about an acre an hour, and thats with a fair amount of obstacles and hills. You could probably cut slightly over that on smooth, open terrain, allowing you to just cruise at top speed and cut.

As for the hills damaging the mower, I think in the long run (15 years), it could hurt the mower. That said, if you only plan on doing it for a couple years (like I do, as the neighbors in question won't probably even be there next year) it will likely not have longterm negative effects. Just keep your engine in good running condition and you should probably not have issues if you plan on putting in under 25 hours a season on them. Hope that helps you somewhat...

I too asked this forum about the husky yth 2348 and after some great input from the members bought one. The mistakes that I feel that I made were that I bought more than I needed. Having said that, the husky has served me well. I mow about one acre mostly level but lots of obstacles (trees and such) I haven't had it long enough to give an opinion as to relieability but over all I like the mower. Again I bought more mower than I need and have trouble getting thru areas that I easly did with my 38 inch deck toro. As far as one lasting 10 years my toro was purchased used in 96 and I realy abused it. I use it to mulch bushes, sticks, ect after I trim them and its still runs well. My reason for buying the husky was the deck on the toro rotted out and the husky had the thickest deck in my price range. I paid $1800 FYI. I also attached a bagger and when I use it I get pretty dirty from the dust it throws. Hey, I can use a bath anyway:) Don't know if that helps you, hope it does.

"In fact, with that kind of stuff (includes tillers) I find it easier and cheaper to jsut rent the walk behind stuff."

which brings up another point, if you are going to use these type implements on a tractor, make sure the deck removal/change out is EASY. some machines the deck is such a pain to remove that folks change blades with the deck still on. others it is easy to remove and quicker to pop the deck off, change things, and then put it back on.

both my Deere L130 and my X500 i can remove the deck in under a minute. reiinstall is just as quick. the Craftsman Gt i have does not have the deck on it, but from looking things over it is at least a 1 hour job to remove/reinstall.

and yes, wlak behind tillers are cheaper than tow/mounted models. if your task does not require the big ones then get a walk behind. i have both a 14" walk behind and 3pt mounted 20" Snapper tiller. for small stuff i use the walk behind because manuvering around kills a lot of time on the tractor. but the big stuff i use the tractor. throw it in low gear and put-put along. if i ever have the funds i will get the 30" for the X500. but again, in MY case it is worth it. someone who just needs these things once or twice a year if that often, would come out better renting/borrowing.