Thanks, David! I'm glad to hear that all is not lost. We just had a big rainstorm last night, and the good news is that at least it doesn't look like the plants are drowning in standing water or anything like that. But I'll be careful when I do the watering myself, your advice is very helpful! So you don't think it's worth it to dig up the plants, mix in some perlite or something, and re-plant? Maybe that's more trauma than it's worth. I just feel silly because I knew all of this already, just went ahead and bought the wrong stuff anyway...

When you eat a whole pod of mature snap peas, the pod walls are not fibrous. Eat a shelling pea pod and peas - taste is still delicious! - but you end up with a mouth full of fibre from the pods. Yes very young shelling peas can be eaten as snow peas, because this fibre only develops when the peas inside the pod develop, but as soon as the pods are a little more mature, it becomes very obvious which type is which.

Hi, Monica, Sorry about the mess that was made of the thread you previously posted. To a very large degree, your choice of medium/soil determines what size pot is appropriate. The more water-retentive a soil is, the more critical pot size is. When using soils like the gritty mix or a well-made 5:1:1 mix, you can grow very small plants in very large pots. There would be no concern about the plant being over-potted in the gritty mix, and minimal concern in the 5:1:1 mix as long as you're somewhat mindful of any heavy-handedness on the watering can. This is a copy/paste of something that outlines the reasoning: Choosing an Appropriate Size Container How large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size. It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose. It's not uncommon for me, after a repot/root-pruning to pot in containers as small as 1/5 the size as that which the plant had been growing in prior to the work. Plants grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated). So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water. I have just offered clear illustration why the oft repeated advice to ‘resist pottting up more than one pot size at a time’, only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions. As the ht and volume of the perched water table are reduced, the potential for negative effects associated with over-potting are diminished in a direct relationship with the reduction - up to the point at which the soil holds no (or an insignificant amount) of perched water and over-potting pretty much becomes a non-issue. ******************************************************************* Rather than repot at this late date, it would probably be better (if you're worried about excess water retention) to employ some strategies that will help reduce water retention for now and then address the repotting issue at a more appropriate time. Al

If you have black door knobs in the adjacent rooms, it's totally fine and normal to continue that into the bathroom (so the inside doorknob will be black), then switch your metals to the golden/brass tone. If the faucets/shower fixtures are more pricey than you feel comfortable with, see if you can shave a few dollars here and there somewhere else in the house (since it's a total house remodel, there might be several places where you could shave some $$ off of a few things). It all comes down to priorities. I tend to prioritize and select more high-end finishes for the downstairs for sure, and I prioritize the public areas and places guests will see, as well as my own master. Everywhere else, such as upstairs kids' rooms, kids' bathrooms, gameroom (fixtures, finishes, etc), we go way down the food-chain to HD/Lowes. It still all looks really good bc we have excellent installers, but choosing cheaper materials upstairs allows us to choose more pricey things for downstairs. I saved that same inspiration photo a long while back, but was too chicken to do it! I say go for it!