John Deere 2305 Overheating Problems

13 years ago

I own a 2006 John Deere 2305 utility tractor with a 62 inch mid mount mower an a 200cx bucket on this tractor with a 24 h.p 3 cylinder yanmar engine. I have had overheating problems with this tractor where when I cut grass the fan of the motor pulls trimmings for the mower up an onto the screen in front of the radiator. I have had problems with overheating the motor, an three weeks ago I really overheated this motor so much that I think I have blown the head gasket on this motor with only 64 hours on this tractor. I talked with the John Deere Dealer they said they have not heard of this problem happening to this particular model of it's tractor. I have read in other forums on the internet an have read of similar problems with this tractor. I am writing to ask if anyone else that owns this tractor has had or if this is a major problem with this model of John Deere tractor. I have a damaged tractor that runs but it is very ill an overheats in about 15 minutes of running this with the power gradually going down very severely. Any thoughts on this problem I have had with this tractor. I Live on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, an I don't try to overstress this tractor at all but now I am in need of a Deer Doctor for my tractor

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

mownie
13 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Well, one way to determine if the head gasket is leaking compression/combustion into the cooling system is to connect a common radiator pressure tester to the radiator filler port before starting the engine when cold.
DO NOT pump any pressure into the radiator with the tester pump, you are only going to use the pressure gauge to see how soon, and how much pressure, registers on the pressure gauge.
If the pressure gauge shows a rise of pressure up to or near the pressure rating of the cap within a minute or so after starting, that indicates the system is being pressurized by something other than normal thermal expansion.

Another way to test for compression/combustion leakage into the cooling system is very "old school" but still valid, however, it requires caution and a stop watch or timer.
For this test, begin with a cold engine. Remove the fan belt from the pulleys and get the belt away from the crank pulley. Removing the belt disables the water pump and this is necessary because the swirl of the pump could spoil the "quiet stillness" needed to observe the escaping gases (if they are present).
Remove the radiator cap. Top off the radiator with coolant so that there is no empty space below the inner radiator cap seat flange. Start the engine and your timer (or note the time on your watch). DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE MORE THAN 2 MINUTES without a fan belt.
With the engine at idle RPM, watch the coolant in the radiator filler opening.
If you see what look like "air bubbles" begin to burb out of the radiator opening within a few seconds after starting the cold engine, that is "compression/combustion gases" escaping from the cooling system.
Be advised that on some engines and depending on how bad the compression/combustion leak actually is..........what you might see instead of a few bubbles............could be a geyser of coolant shooting up from the radiator filler opening, so don't stick your face too close to the opening, or directly above it, and you would be wise to wear some kind of approved eye safety goggles or face shield.
If you see gas bubbles or a geyser within 2 minutes, you definitely have compression/combustion leaking into the cooling system.

Now, about the tendency for the "grass screen" to clog quickly.
That is unusual unless there are some other circumstances or conditions that are promoting a "cloud of debris" in front of the radiator while you are mowing.
Have you looked really close at what the screen is catching?
How tall is the grass or weeds (as I don't know what you normally are cutting) that you are mowing? Does the grass or weeds usually have "seed heads" or dandelion fluff?
What about other types of plants such as milkweed (that also have airborne seeds connected to "fluff parasails")?

If the grass/weeds you are mowing is fairly tall, has seed heads (or both) and you are mowing with the front bucket down low enough to "skim" the plants.......when the plants rebound after the bucket passes them, they are flinging fluff and seeds into the radiator air inflow zone where the screen can capture them.

If that scenario does not match what you are doing, then you need to look closely at the exact circumstances that ARE taking place when you mow.
Something is causing the tractor to draw debris filled air into the radiator and something is causing that debris cloud to be present.

If you are cutting at a higher level in sparsely vegetated turf, it's likely that all this "chaff" is escaping all around the edges of the deck instead of being neatly discharged out the directional discharge chute.
If that is what is happening, you (or someone) might need to engineer some sort of skirt in front of the deck to stop the chaff and clippings from escaping toward the front of the tractor.
GopherGuy
10 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I have a 2305 with the same problem. It overheats every time I cut the grass. My daughter and her boyfriend were using it and really overheated it!!! Now the head is cracked and the block is scored. The JD dealership is telling me a price of $14000.00 to rebuild it. I have read of this overheating problem in a lot of places but no one at JD has heard of it!!! We have to figure this out!!! I found a brand new engine in Illinois for around $4500.00 but don't have the cash right now and live in Alberta, Canada.
Related Discussions
john deere product mis-representation - 'fraud'.
Q
Comments (29)
Thank you so much for the warning, even 10 yrs later it's still advertised steel sleeve. I wondered as I'm looking to buy a new engine to set back for future replacement since new throwaway designs (never change oil) are so terrible. Not sure how briggs durability in the future is but I know their past and getting one while I can. Its for my 1996 Snapper self propelled mower, I saw the 875 JD engine sold alone online. I knew B/S site says the 875 is just aluminum bore & the 850 is sleeved but I thought JD ordered them special maybe? This is not the case as I suspected and how I found these posts. Oh well' now I learned at least a few things on my project. 1} Snapper disc drive self propels outlast 3+ engines easy. My lawncare friends snapper SP deck outlasted (2 Briggs,1 Honda so far). 2} JD really are a bunch of liars. 3} The 850 Pro is the real Briggs Pro engine under Vanguard. To anyone who thinks steel sleeves are not needed in Aluminum engines try telling this to GM...Mention them saving a few bucks producing the Vega , as that is why it's engine failed at 30k on average. Sleeved aluminum engines are in almost every car today, my old Toyota had 420k when I sold it 5 years ago, still see it around town. One truck near me here, Google this: Clyde glides to a million. Thanks again!!
...See More
John Deere X500
Q
Comments (47)
My only intention in my posting is to maybe help the next person along in their search of a lawn tractor or learn a bit about them for myself. Whether it be green, orange, blue, red or black. I don't think anyone disagrees with the fact that quality is not what it used to be, even with the advancements in technology. I wish, like most other americans out there, that we still manufactured everything here in the states. But that is a long distant memory and will probably never be again. But I bought a John Deere because the one I had before it lasted, and the farm I grew up on had plently of them that did their share of breaking, but got the job done everytime. But so did the Case, Internationals, Massey's, and I think a New Holland. Every manufacturer out there has it's share of problems. Nothings perfect! John Deere has been in my blood since childhood when I played with my first little green toy. Everytime I get on my X530, I will be proud to have one. People don't usually buy Harley Davidsons because of their quality (although I feel them to be very well built). They buy them because of the name that sits on them. If John Deere stops making a good product, the brand would eventually suffer and only be found in the history books and a few landscapes maybe. But when I drive anywhere, it is still the brand I see most often, and usually they are moving. So, drafted 72, your opinion is noted and hopefully a few people may benefit from your experience, but a GT235 and a X530 are a bit far apart in the ways they are used. I have no doubts that mine will still be alive and well in 15 years. And if I have any problems, I will be sure to post them, so the next person at least can use the info to decide if the JD brand is right for them.
...See More
John Deere 332 PTO problem
Q
Comments (9)
***"sometimes when trying to reengage the PTO or engage the transmission it will kill the engine"*** Sounds like it may be related to a safety interlock switch, or a relay that is part of the safety interlock circuitry. Is your PTO hydraulic, controlled by a solenoid valve? If that is the case, a defective solenoid valve might be overheating to the point of "going open" or even "shorting out" after it has been energized for the 20 to 30 minutes of operation. But, sometimes relays can act up when they are overloaded by too much current draw when they get old, or, if the device they are controlling develops too much resistance or "shorts out". When the engine "kills", will the engine crank right back up? or does it act like the battery is weak or dead?
...See More
John Deere 425 thermostat-help!
Q
Comments (7)
You will lose the benefit of having the engine operate at a consistent temperature. Engine temperature without a thermostat will vary depending on ambient air temperature and the loading conditions of the engine. Engine warm up after a cold start will be delayed somewhat. I would expect any "problems" from not having a thermostat would occur during cold weather operation more than during summer time operation. Thermostatic control of coolant flow has several myths that arise in popular culture. One myth being that a "cooler rated" thermostat will result in the engine automatically assuming the new lower OPENING TEMPERATURE as its OPERATING TEMPERATURE. The rating of the T-stat only governs the temp where the T-stat begins to open allowing coolant circulation through the radiator. And under ideal conditions, that rating may in fact be the temperature the engine will operate at. But higher ambient air temps, dirty radiator cooling fins obstructing air flow, anything blocking air flow through the radiator, a collapsed coolant hose, etc can and will result in the engine temperature rising higher than the opening temp rating of the thermostat. Operating without a thermostat during cold weather will cause a number of problems, the most insidious being degradation of the engine lube oil due to moisture in blow-by gases condensing into the oil and never being driven out again by the beneficial "normal operating temperature" being attained due to "over cooling" the engine.
...See More
kenney
6 years ago
I am having the exact same problem. First I notice I have to constantly clean the screen in front of the radiator and the grill in front of that. Lately I've been overheating after 30 min or so of heavy mowing. I think I've blown the head gasket this time. It seems like the radiator is just to small to be efficient for the this tractor. Does anybody have a solution?
HU-557749133
3 years ago
I have the same problem with the 2020 2025R tractor we purchased a couple of months ago. I have to carry a blower around so when it cuts off I can blow the radiator off. John Deere should fix this problem! A tractor is only worth its ability to perform.
HU-808634004
3 years ago
MIne us a 2012 I believe. It has 320 hours currently. At 110 hours a full rebuild was needed and performed by Bader & Sons in MIchigan. They are the Deere dealer here. The screen in front needs cleaned every 15 minutes when mowing and overheating was still a big problem. The rebuild cost $2954.00 and my tractor is currently tore down again with a blown head gasket and cracked cylinder head. Mine is going to be traded in for a Kubota in the spring. Enough is enough.

John Deere 2305 Overheating Problems

Comments (5)

mownie

GopherGuy

Related Discussions

kenney

HU-557749133

HU-808634004

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US