In my opinion you will get a nicer cut with the gage wheels up, but low enough to protect the deck- rather than using it as a floating deck. I guess it also depends what you are looking for and look to correct. To me, it isn't important that the actual height of cut matches the #s on the handle. What kind of QOC issues are you trying to correct? Uneven side to side issues can often be corrected by basic leveling. Ensure the blades are running true, tire pressure even end then level side to side using a small rule or the handy JD leveling gauge. With the blades straight across, measure from the tip below the cutting edge to that nice level concrete garage floor it's parked on. You will see the adjuster from where the deck hangs. make them even as possible w/o sweating to get that last 1/8 of an inch! Front to rear pitch is useful to negate stragglers and overall rough looking cuts. Commonly set lower in the front 1/4 - 3/4 inch. Remember where you started on this one in case you don't like the results from changing it. Good luck!

After sitting for an extended period, the shift mechanisms can become rusted/tight, as mentioned. I believe the STX tractors used a Peerless model 915, which is the least expensive/economy transaxle offered by Peerless. IMHO, it should have had a model 800 or 920 vs the 915 for the best results, but I think Deere took the "cheap route" with this one to meet a certain price point with the STX30 & 38. It DOES HAVE Peerless Bentonite grease (12 ozs.), which when left sitting for a period of time, can become harder and thicker. Any moisture introduced can also exacerbate this problem with the grease. As "HEAT" and "USE" are introduced back into the unit, it should free-up some, but some shifter damage could also result while using it (shift fork, shift keys, etc.). BEST OF LUCK !!! T-Man

Here's my 2 cents. I had a STX38 with the 12.5 Kohler. It had a very intermittent no start problem. Solenoid would just click whenever it felt like it - no rhyme or reason. I traced it to a little 14 or 16 gauge wire spliced into the red battery cable that was not making a good connection on the + battery terminal. I seperated the wire from the battery cable and gave it it's own connection. It really took care of the problem. I had a few cold ones that night after that miraculous discovery.

THANK's Bill..... Am a little embarrased that I did not figure that one out myself, 32+ years as a mechanic (Military) and still at it.. Disconnected the switch and put a jumper wire in it to bypass, but alas like you said it is normally closed. Reconnected the switch and it works like a charm. TOOOO Hot to mow, will have to wait for a cooler evening! Once again, Thank you!!