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What shuts of the regulator on a Deere LA110?

11 years ago

We have had a problem with the battery slowly discharging. I did a basic draw test and the draw quits when I unhook the regulator connector.It looks to me that something should shut this off- but it is wired as to have power all the time on the striped red wire. Any thoughts maybe/ The other wire is orange in the connector if that helps.

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Comments (16)

bill_kapaun
11 years ago
Deere schematics are usually NOT available unless you pay for them, and since I don't have a Deere...........

But TYPICALLY, on small tractors, it is disconnected at the key switch in the OFF position.

The Key Switch should have a "B" terminal which is the "supply" from the battery.
In the ON position, it'll "typically connect to an A1 and/or A2 terminal on the switch.

What I would do-
Trace the alternator wire to the Key switch and note which terminal it connects to.
Note which terminal is fed from the battery. (usually the small wire connected to the same LARGE starter solenoid stud as the Battery + cable.

Disconnect the connector to the key switch.
Check for continuity from the B and A1? with the switch in the ON & OFF positions. You should only have continuity in the ON.
mownie
11 years ago
If the wire colors you cite are in the connector half that is part of the tractor harness, that is no help in identifying the regulator and its other charging components.
Please post the color of the wires that stay with the regulator half of connector and the color of and how many wires go from the regulator to the engine.
This engine is a Briggs single cylinder or not?
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bill_kapaun
11 years ago
After a bit of searching, it appears this is the tri circuit 9 AMP system. (31P677-0130-E1)
1 Yellow wire (AC) into the Voltage Regulator and 1 Red wire (DC) out.
arhick
Original Author
11 years ago
Correct Bill. The red striped wire comes directly off the fuse so it is meant to have power all the time. Would a bad regulator cause a draw? I can unhook the connector from the ignition switch and the relay- which looks to be a safety relay (like a common fog light relay)and the draw continues until the 2 wire connector is unhooked.
bill_kapaun
11 years ago
As I mentioned, I DON'T have a schematic and thus don't know a lot about Deere wiring. (Craftsman has a lot of free schematics so I'm pretty good at them)

Some tractors ARE hardwired to the regulator/charge diode.
Apparently yours is one of them.

Anyway, I think you've already diagnosed the problem when you unplugged the VR.
IF you DIDN'T have the draw before and you do now, the VR is "leaking". Likely one of the diodes or such has "broken down", for lack of a better term.

I'd replace the VR
Briggs part#
691188 Regulator

About $25-30 online.
User
11 years ago
Look for a diode or rectifier in the charging system.

When diodes fail they go open or can create a battery drain.
arhick
Original Author
11 years ago
This rider has given us another problem. It would not start the other day and just back fires as it trys to go. Thinking about some of the valve issues they can have, I removed the front cover and all seems ok to me. I also tried another spark plug. Am I missing something obvious?
tomplum
11 years ago
Flywheel key?
arhick
Original Author
11 years ago
I removed the cover and flywheel bolt. The key has sheared and the flywheel itself is broken! I have yet to get the regulator, coupled with the flywheel price online- it will be close to $200 in parts. What would break a flywheel anyways? It is cracked in the center at the keyway. I'm going to pull the flywheel and be sure the alternator is not damaged. Or should that be added to the parts list too?
rcbe
11 years ago
a flywheel key of the incorrect metallurgical properties (like too hard) could have caused the flywheel to crack before the key itself sheared. It is important to use only the key material spec'd by the engine mfgr for that engine.

Would think that you will have to both visually inspect the alternator components under the flywheel and functionally test the alternator system for any damage.

The real question is what caused that key to shear in the first place..typical causes are striking a partially buried rock/brick/pipe with running mower blades resulting in in a shocking engine stop; catastrophic internal engine failure; drive train lockup; excessive harsh operator usage; incorrect key replacement procedure...
arhick
Original Author
11 years ago
The alternator looks good. This does seem weird as to why it occured. I am not aware that this has ever been apart. My neighbor sheared a flywheel key on his Cub Z - Kohler engine. But to break? The good news is that I found a used flywheel and possibly the rugulator too. Thanks to all so far.
arhick
Original Author
11 years ago
Does anyone know the proper torque on this flywheel bolt? It seems that there are differences of opinion on this.
tomplum
11 years ago
These you torque to 110 foot #s and ideally use the steel (black) key.
arhick
Original Author
11 years ago
Steel key? Are you sure? I thought that flywheel keys would be soft so damage doesn't happen. I have the used parts and a new pack of keys 222698s. Will this work? I was told they were all the same.
arhick
Original Author
11 years ago
Anyone?
tomplum
11 years ago
Briggs had a bulletin out about a year ago about the key update. if you look up your parts at BASCO, the new key should be listed in the particular model listing. They use a steel key part # 796335 and increased the torque accordingly. You want to be sure the taper has been cleaned w/ something like carb spray and has no oil. I would gently touch up any sharp spots w/ a small file. Briggs does not recommend using lapping compound to clean the taper- tho it has been done before.

You wrote: Thank you for responding to my Garden Web post.I reinstalled the flywheel with the standard key and it had sheared. Is there another problem or do I just need to go to the hardware store and get a hardened key. There is some marring on the taper. Should the marring on the shaft be sanded smooth?

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