I assume that this is one of the auto drive models- where you push on the pedal to make it go? The f&r lever is on the rear fender? (would be easier w/ a model #) About all you can do is to verify that the linkage isn't somehow obstructed, or a pivot bolt isn't binding. If these things check out on the outside- the problem is inside the transaxle. Are you up for disassembly? With any model, one has to be sure that the input belt to the transaxle isn't turning when you shift. Auto drives are the only ones you don't need to clutch.

I had that problem with a 14.5hp ohv briggs i got 'refurbished' from a tractor sales- after many attempts to start it, and tearing it down, i noticed the flywheel key sheared- replacing it, it coughs and dies, It sheared again. I took it back, they sed oil was in the combustion chamber and caused the key to shear- me, i think it was some other issue when it was refurbished, since i had made sure nothing was in the combustion chamber when starting. It could be nearly anything causing the problem. Since its an '02, its still reletively new- Ive had motors sitting in weeds, full of water, i clean it up and it fires right off like new. It could be a low CCA ( cold cranking amp ) battery- i get at least 300 plus CCA batteries to make sure it has enough power to crank it.

Hi Dynamike, That 500 hours figure is conservative. I got the mower from some guy on Ebay [big lesson itself in that, buyer beware if you can't touch it and check it out yourself before bidding]. It was well used -- in fact it was pretty well run down -- when I got it. Motor was blowing smoke like a steam boat, steering was loose as a goose, spindles were shot, and blades were duller than my Aunt Irene's family photo album. So I spent the next few weeks going over it, refurbing and fixing at least the major problems. That's when I put the Sendec tach/hour meter on it, so that 500 hours is what I've put on it since then. I have a couple of acres I mow with it, plus there for a while I was using it to maintain a 25 acre ranch in Hayes County in TX. That ranch was pretty much a full time job in itself. Very demanding terrain, just about everything you could imagine. Plus it was way, way overgrown when I took the job, so there was a lot of severe bush hogging type work, slogging through field grass as high as the hood. And then there were wide open spaces like the baseball field they had out there, where I could drop the deck low and make it so beautiful... sigh. You know what, that property and if I may boast a little, some of my mowing is actually visible from space, on Google Maps... what a rush. Anyway that just to illustrate the kind of relationship I've had with this machine... sounds wierd I know, but that's me. That ranch terrain was so demanding... you could draw an imaginary line on the mower at about the chassis level, and pretty much every part on the mower from the chassis down was basically expendable. Blades. Spindles. Decks. Belts. Axles. Tires. You get the picture. These were the parts I wound up collecting as spares wherever I could find them. I put inner tubes and tractor tire Slime in all the tires. That *almost* eliminated flats, except for when something would reach up and gouge a chunk out of a sidewall. Eventually for time demands of my real job and family, had to let the ranch job go, and I only mow my own place now. But I should have been doing what you did and pull the wheels off periodically to grease the axles. I was a victim of my own tires, in that I hadn't had a flat in so long that when I replaced the transaxle, I couldn't get one of the wheels off the axle. It's still stuck on there! I used one of my spare wheels to get going again, but I need to find a machine shop somewhere I guess, that can maybe press that old axle shaft off my good wheel. You asked about what lube to use in the transaxle. I hadn't forgotten your question, just got rambling (old man thing you know). "The Book" says it's permanently lubed, which is of course only valid so long as you don't have to open it up for repair. When I rebuilt this transaxle that I transplanted into the tractor, I packed it fairly full of hi-temp wheel bearing grease. Then I poured in about a half cup of 90W Hypoid oil. This made a fairly cohesive mass of lubricant that both surrounds the large gears for their teeth, and yet flows into the bushing surfaces to lube them. I was able to test the tranny on the work bench by hooking up an electric drill to the input shaft and running the unit through it's functions, to check for smooth shifting and any possible binding. In the 50 or so hours of run time since this repair, I've not seen any oil seeping out from the bushings, so looks like the sealing is ok... good to go. Now if I can just restrain myself from excess speed over bumpy terrain, hopefully this tranny will go another 500 hours :). Hey sorry for the long post. I find this an enjoyable subject, fun sharing with others with similar interests.

I own a Craftsman LT3000 with a six-speed manual transmission. I've used this machine on one acre since the end of last summer without trouble. Here's the review I wrote last year... http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tractor/msg081107371197.html The one cylinder Briggs Intek Plus engine starts and runs easily. There's plenty of torque even at low RPM. It has no trouble pulling a cart full of soil or stones. The manual transmission is strong, you'll spin the wheels before slipping a belt. As mentioned before, you choose the gear you need with your foot on the brake or stopped. Shifting while moving will shorten the life of the manual transmission. Here's a quick "how to" for the gears... - Lower gears are for pulling a heavy load or mowing very heavy grass. - The middle gears are best for most mowing or pulling moderate loads. - High gears are for when you are merely driving it or pulling an empty cart. - it's best to ease off the brake/clutch at low engine RPM. This keeps you from taking off too quickly. There's no need to rev the engine if you're just driving. It goes fast enough in sixth gear at low throttle to get you where you want to go. You can even pull a decent load at low throttle. However, mowing demands high engine RPMs. Otherwise, you will bog or stall the engine. Your cut will stink, to boot. The good and the bad... GOOD: Strong engine. Strong transmission Strong frame Good on gas Tight steering Metal hood Nice cut quality Oil, air, and fuel filters easy to service Optional bagger works well BAD: LOUD engine at high RPM Dim headlights at low engine RPM Brake is a long reach for short people Seat switch cutout too sensitive for short people Optional canopy is junk I highly recommend the 12.5 cubic foot polycarbonite dump cart. It's strong and won't dent or rust. I've put 800 pounds of field stone in mine without damage. The metal cart is less expensive, yet has sharp corners that can pull clothing or cut skin. It has also a lot more metal to dent or rust. I use a leaf blower to clean my lawn tractor. Peace. Marco