"I just want a reliable, mechanically sound, trouble-free machine that is EASILY maintained. Is that too much to ask for?"

Actually that IS asking quite alot of a tractor at that price point.

I would not think of trying to mow 1+ acre with a $1300 new mower, last years model or not, that is too much yard for too small of a machine in my opinion.

Now to answer, or attempt to answer some of your specific questions.

When comparing the gauge of a deck, or frame metal, keep in mind that a smaller # is thicker, i.e. 10g, is heavier than 12g.

A twin clyinder engine is generally smoother and quieter than a single at any given HP. (Just more balanced torque). Beyond that HP is Hp, and after the HP wars of the past decade it is hard to buy a tractor without enough HP. 16 to 18 HP is more than adequate for a 42" deck and I don't think you can find a tractor with less than 16 HP anymore.

The front axle question, cast vs. steel intrigues me. At first glance one would say that cast is better than steel, and if you were comparing a stamped steel welded front axle on a box store tractor to the cast iron axles of a true garden tractor, I would agree. But the box store tractors are designed to meet a specific price point and adding a cast front axle may mean that costs were cut someplace else. You may get a 12g deck instead of a 10g deck for instance.

Hydro vs gear transmissions is another of the same kind of question. I too would prefer hydrostatic drive, Craftsman has gone strickly to Tuff Torque K46 tranny's this year, but last years model could have been a belt drive CVT, I don't know. A straight gear tranny should give you the most reliability over the long haul, but the added functionality of a hydro may be worth the trade off.

The engines don't really matter. You will get either a B&S Intek or a Kohler Courage, either will be OK, neither should be confused with a Kohler Command or a B&S Vanguard.

In short you get what you pay for, and at $1300 you really are not buying very much tractor. I would recommend you move into the $2500 to $4K price range which gets you into the JD X300 line, Simplicity, Cub Cadet GT, or Kubota. I think these would be closer to what you need, just maybe not what you can afford.

I'm sure someone else will suggest it, but $1000-$1200 spent on a late model used tractor will get you much closer to matching your needs to your desires, than $1300 spent on one of the box store babies.

Steve

Steve, thanks for your reply, and I am checking locally for used machines, but I needed this education first in order to properly evaluate any potentials. Your statement " I would not think of trying to mow 1+ acre with a $1300 new mower, last years model or not, that is too much yard for too small of a machine in my opinion." has me chuckling, because for the past two summers I have been using a 19" Black and Decker electric lawnmower with a 200' extension cord. Takes me 10-12 hours spread out over a couple of days. You can see why I am almost desperate for something different! Hopefully other posters will come through with the sage advice I need, so I can make the best choice with the funds I have available.

Ms. tight, regarding your statement about shifting the gears on the manual transmission: You don't shift the gears from low to second to third to fourth while moving on tractors(unlike automobiles). On tractors you only have to choose the appropriate gear needed based on how fast you need to (or want to) travel and/or if you need to go backwards. You will not need to shift to a different gear until the conditions or circumstances change. For example, you might back out of your storage facility when it's time to mow. Then,you might select third or fourth gear while you are sitting still after backing up. Third or fourth gear will allow you to drive quickly to where you want to begin mowing. When you arrive at the point where you will begin mowing, you stop the tractor, set your deck to the cutting height you want, engage the deck blades, and then you choose first or second gear to travel in while mowing. If your grass is thick and tall, you will surely get a better cut if you travel in first gear (it gives you the slowest travel speed) while cutting. If your grass is somewhat thin and not so tall, you might do OK in second gear (or maybe even third with some machines). If you thought you had to constantly upshift and downshift.....well, that's not the case. It might take a bit of getting used to but you'll soon get the hang of it. If that scenario I described is not what you thought, I apologize. Whether you get a manual or a hydrostat you'll still have to "learn the machine". Good luck to you.

I think either one would be fine to mow 1 acre. With modest maintenance either should last 5-10 years; I'd recommend keeping it in a garage or shed. Modern small engines will typically outlast the rest of the tractor with an annual oil change. The hydrostatic transmissions in these tractors are maintenance free, and just need to have the area around the fan cleaned off of debris so they keep cool. To make your decision, I'd just go to sears, and see what they have, and make your pick based on the features you like best (e.g. fender vs. foot-drive transmission).

The only repair item that you really need to be prepared for is to replace blades. Since you said you have roots, you might inadvertently hit one and bend a blade. I keep a spare or two on-hand, and a 5/8" wrench to change them out. If you have a convenient ledge or curb, you may not even need to jack it up to change.

I know there are a lot of fans of more expensive machines on this board, and they'll try to steer you towards a more capable tractor. If you were going into the lawn care business, where you were going to rely on your lawn tractor to pay the bills and put food on the table, I'd agree with them. For residential use, I'd go with a residential tractor. Sears sells an enormous amount of these smaller tractors, and most people are plenty satisfied with them.

Thanks mownie for the explanation, I really had no idea of how tractor gears differed from anything else I was familiar with. Your description helped, and thanks for not making fun of my zero-knowledge base. You are right, of course, in saying I'll still have to "learn the machine." I just want it to be as pleasant an experience as possible!

Let me try again, now that I know your situation a little better.

The primary trade off for the box store tractors is in longevity. If you are willing to have a tractor which may only last 5 to 7 years before it needs to be replaced, these Craftsman mowers may well get you out from behind that Black & Decker. Keeping the mower clean and dry will greatly increase its life. If it must set ouside spend the money for a cover, I've seen these sell for as little as $14.95 on EBAY. The deck spindles will be maintenance free, that doesn't mean they won't fail, it just means you can't fix them. That really means you can't grease them or service them in any way, you just run them until they fail and then replace them. They should last 3-4 years, about 1/2 the life of the mower, so figure on replacing them once or twice. The engines should be fine and will generally outlast the rest of these mowers, unless you have significant grades, in which case you need engines with full pressure lubes and oil filters. Nothing kills a splash lubed engine like running on a side hill. The Craftsman mowers are dollar for dollar the best of the sub $1500 tractors, but thats not saying much, there are only 2 makes below $1500 that I know of, Husqvarna and MTD, Husqvarna builds Craftsman/Poulan, and MTD builds everything else in this price range, Yard Machine, Yardman, Bolens, Troybilt, White, Huskee, Toro, & Cub Cadet.If evaluating the transmission, check to be sure that if you think your getting a hydro that it is in fact a hydro not an automatic belt drive CVT. Craftsman as of this year no longer makes belt drive CVTs, everything is hydrostatic or straight stop and shift gear drive. MTD makes nearly everything with belt drive CVTs, or shift on the go transmissions. They are suprisingly long lasting, but, if you do ever need to replace that CVT drive belt it will be expensive. They aren't bad, but they are not true hydrostatics either.
steve

Thanks Steve, I will be able to park it in a garage, I don't know what a deck spindle is, but hopefully they're either cheap or a DIY job. No big grades, but I will probably not go with a splash-lubed mower. I think I could get used to either pedal or fender, so no biggie there. One thing I wish I didn't have to do is change out parts just to mulch leaves.

Good point to look for on the hydro, I will check to see if it is an automatic belt drive CVT. Didn't know that there are hydrostatics and then there are true hydrostatics! I am, however, dismayed that a machine like this, if well-kept and maintained is only considered good for 5-7 years. They don't seem to make them like they used to.

One thing I didn't ask - can you take a hose and clean off the mower, and maybe under the deck without a problem? Is it okay to do this? I can imagine getting grass and debris off the machine would be a good idea, and I could leave it in the sun so the heat can dry up moisture. I don't want to do something stupid out of ignorance, however.

I own a Craftsman LT3000 with a six-speed manual transmission. I've used this machine on one acre since the end of last summer without trouble.

Here's the review I wrote last year...

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tractor/msg081107371197.html

The one cylinder Briggs Intek Plus engine starts and runs easily. There's plenty of torque even at low RPM. It has no trouble pulling a cart full of soil or stones.

The manual transmission is strong, you'll spin the wheels before slipping a belt. As mentioned before, you choose the gear you need with your foot on the brake or stopped. Shifting while moving will shorten the life of the manual transmission. Here's a quick "how to" for the gears...

- Lower gears are for pulling a heavy load or mowing very heavy grass.

- The middle gears are best for most mowing or pulling moderate loads.

- High gears are for when you are merely driving it or pulling an empty cart.

- it's best to ease off the brake/clutch at low engine RPM. This keeps you from taking off too quickly.

There's no need to rev the engine if you're just driving. It goes fast enough in sixth gear at low throttle to get you where you want to go.
You can even pull a decent load at low throttle.

However, mowing demands high engine RPMs. Otherwise, you will bog or stall the engine. Your cut will stink, to boot.

The good and the bad...

GOOD:

Strong engine.
Strong transmission
Strong frame
Good on gas
Tight steering
Metal hood
Nice cut quality
Oil, air, and fuel filters easy to service
Optional bagger works well

BAD:

LOUD engine at high RPM
Dim headlights at low engine RPM
Brake is a long reach for short people
Seat switch cutout too sensitive for short people
Optional canopy is junk

I highly recommend the 12.5 cubic foot polycarbonite dump cart. It's strong and won't dent or rust. I've put 800 pounds of field stone in mine without damage.

The metal cart is less expensive, yet has sharp corners that can pull clothing or cut skin. It has also a lot more metal to dent or rust.

I use a leaf blower to clean my lawn tractor.

Peace.

Marco

Ms. tight: In regard to "deck spindles". These are what your mowing blades are attached to under the deck and have pulleys on top of the deck for the deck drive belt to run in (so as to spin the blades for cutting grass). Deck spindle replacement can be a DIY operation with a few "ifs". If you are brave enough to tackle it yourself and can follow instructions offered by members of the forum. (I believe we know that answer already) If you have some basic mechanics tools (or can borrow some, be careful here, don't go to a repair shop to borrow tools, unless you have a dear friend there to borrow from. Best to buy some or borrow from a handy friend who doesn't use theirs to earn a living.) A good helper nowadays is a digital camera. You do have a computer don't you? Why of course you do. Any time you are going to do something on your machine that involves removing and replacing parts....take lots of pictures first.....from all angles. When taking something apart or removing covers (that deck for example), take pictures before the covers come off, take pictures of the stuff under the covers after you get access to what's underneath. Especially will you need pictures before you remove the deck drive belt(s). I would even suggest that just for giggles you uncover that belt system sometime and take some pictures while the belt is in place. That way you will have a photo diagram of how it goes if the belt ever breaks. Create a folder in your computer to keep all your digi-photos. Then if you should ever have to do it again you already have it in there. Being able to print it out to carry to the mower or to a repair shop/ parts counter is nice too. These are just my opinions and ramblings and not necessarily everyone's gospel. Just some things I do/did.

Hello Ms. tight, Check out Sunday's June 3rd Sears ads.
The YS4500 is on sale for $1589 with the 5% rebate using your Sears card. The specs below include a Hydrostatic K46 tranny. In addition, other attachments such as carts and sweepers are also on marked down on sale. The YS4500 was also ratd as a " BEST BUY " this year by Consumer Reports.

Powered by a Kohler 21 hp Kohler Courage Single engine (includes oil filter) with overhead valves for cooler running and longer life. Match the speed with the job that needs to be done with our EZ Drive hydrostatic/automatic transmission . A 46" Precision Cut Plus deck system with four gauge wheels and more air flow for better cutting and bagging.

Product Overview:
Lawn Tractor Type Hydrostatic Item Weight 514.0 lbs. General Warranty 2 year limited Drive System:
Transmission Type.....Automatic
Speeds Forward..........Infinite
Speeds Reverse..........Infinite
Shifter Location.......Pedal control Power Propulsion Type
Transfer Device....... Hydrostatic
Engine Brand..........Kohler® Courage Single Cylinder
Displacement,,,,,,,,,,597 cc ( 21 hp )
Air Filter Type.......Dual
Cooling Fan...........Yes
Cylinder Liner........Cast iron
Electronic Ignition...Yes
Exhaust Valve Rotato..No
Lubrication System....Full pressure
Overhead Valves.......Yes
Oil Filter.................Yes
Fuel Capacity.........2.5 gal.
Cutting Blades........2
Cutting Deck Type.....Precision cut plus
Cutting Positions.....6
Cutting Range.........1-1/2 to 4 in.
Gauge Wheels..........Yes ( 4 )
Deck Thickness........12 ga.
Deck Cut Width........46 in.
Wheel Grease Zerks....Yes
Turf Saver Tires......Front 15 x 6 x 6 in.
...........................Rear 20 x 8 x 8 in.
Electric Clutch For Attach.......No
Brakes Type...........Disk
Cruise Control........Yes
Battery Ammeter.......No
Hour Meter Feedback...No
Turning Radius........16 in.
Seat, Adjustable......Yes
Axle Material
Cast iron Frame.......11 ga. formed steel
Overall Color...........Red

Thanks Texoma, you are very considerate to help out. Guess what? As of Wednesday, I am the new owner of the YS4500 (2006) model 27668. It has a B&S 24 hp. OHV engine, electric start, hydro transmission, pressure lube system, and....cruise control. It was on sale, I wrangled a 10% extra off, then used the Sears card for another 5%. Making the cost of the tractor $1325!

Now, I just need to learn how to drive and maintain it. I think I'm going to have fun with this one! Thanks to everyone for all their assistance, and letting me hang out in the boys' tractor treehouse.

Hello.. Tight...

How did u score the initial 10% off?? I'm in the market for a tractor at Sears also...

Thanks
Keith

Hi Keith, see the whole story under my new posting:
New YS4500-Yeah Baby! Thanks to the Forum!

I own a Craftsman LT3000 42" and when using, the blade hit a rock and damaged the star mount at the bottom of the spindle of the deck mower. I see that there are forum members who are comfortable and have experience in replacing the spindle, which is what I think need to do, but my problem is that I cannot remove the nut at the top of the spindle that holds on the pulley wheel. My brother came over last Sunday and helf the blade while tried to turn the nut, but our combined strength wasn't enough to make the nut budge. If I could remove the nut I could (I hope ) remove the pulley wheel, and then pass the spindle through the deck, and then reverse the process for a new spindle. Perhaps some members on the forum could chime in on my approach, and if it is sound, give some ideas on how to remove the nut. Maybe I am using the wrong tecnique or tools? Maybe I shouldn't be trying to remove the nut!
Assistance is appreciated.
Stuart

there are a lot of people on this site that put down
craftsman mowers. i have owned two tractors, my first came with the house in 2000 and was then 5 years old it always ran fine and produced a good cut. last fall only because i wanted something newer i purchased a dys 4500 and fully expect that this will last for as long as i will need it to.
maintenance and care count for every thing. my lot is about 1 3/4 acre. and the neighbor that now has my old tractor feels as though he stole it from me hope this helps.

You have to block the blade with something like a piece of 2x4 before you try to loosen the spindle nut.

Hello: I have a Craftsman YS 4500 with a Briggs and Stratton 22 HP engine. The manual is misplaced. Could someone please guide me how to change its oil? It has this little plastic cap at on the right bottom of the engine and I have the plastic tube to empty its oil contents.

Any help would be much appreciated.