Briggs & Stratton 24 HP thrown push rod - new thread

9 years ago

Hi All,

I am starting a new thread for this as I see there was one that spanned from 2009-2013. I have a Craftsman lawn-tractor with the Briggs Engine model 455677 - 0413-E1 two cylinder engine.

If any of you have had an issue with bent push rods or engine backfire and not starting - I have the answer for you.

Mine has had a history of bending push rods on the left Cylinder. this was caused by a stuck Valve. The only way I found to fix this is to replace the Head assembly - which I did about 3 years ago - it ran great until last week. Then same issue even though I had been adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas.

Yes - I just ordered another Head Assembly for the left Cylinder. It is still cheaper to replace the cylinder than the whole mower even if I only get 3 years out of it.

Really poor design by B&S!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (13)

walt2002
9 years ago
Well a lot of people have cured the problem for the cost of a head gasket. I have the fix. Actually, with one fix, you don't even need a head gasket.

You probably needed to clean your cooling fins, cooling shroud.

Walt Conner
Danny Martin
9 years ago
Hi ,I just saw this new thread so I figure I would post my question here as well,I have a manual for my motor but it don't really say much about how tight to tighten the center bolt on valve rockers before making adjustments and if you tighten them up what do you tork them down to.,and it is not clear on procedure on making the adjustments to the rockers, it says to put it on tdc and adjust the intake valve now at this time do you adjust the exhaust one too then do the other head the same,thanks with any help you can give me to clear this up
Related Discussions
22hp Brigg Stratton 407777 burning oil
Q
Comments (23)
Thank you all for your posts I think I can safely say the problem is probably fixed. I tried the "Wet" test on both cylinders which seemed good. I also changed the oil filter and switched to 30 wt oil. Also did my usual spring tune up ie. new plugs fuel filter, and cleaned and checked air filters, but the single thing which I think may have fixed my problem was the breather valve, and filter under it I had swished out the filter in solvent, and gently blowed dry with air, they looked good at the time but I replaced each any way. After all that I started up and ran till engine was good and hot and took for a burn (on the snow covered drive) engaged the mower on and off so far no smoke, the oil consumption I'm not totally sure, but I think the 30 wt will help that. I took the crank case filter under the reed valve assembly apart, and there was a wafer of a shellack substance in the centre that didn't allow proper (or any) air flow from the reed valve to the crank case (my theory) any way every thing seems good. From here on in I'll change that part rather than clean it! So thanks again every one. Chic
...See More
Briggs and Stratton 24 hp ELS Engine
Q
Comments (79)
Hi all, I'm not mechanically inclined, so if you could give me some thoughts on what has happened I would appreciate it much. I have a Craftsman Pro Lawn Tractor, it has the B&S 24 hp ELS V-Twin with a 24" cut, that I just use here at home,(2 Acres) I've had it about 2 maybe 2.5 years and it is out of warranty. I was riding it from the garage to the yard (blades were not engaged yet) when a very loud pop happened and it died. After that, when I tried to restart it, the motor just turns but it will not start as if something in the engine broke..... I DO think this is MY fault (and I'm embarrassed to say this), but I think I was low on oil - could you give me a suggestion as to what may have broke, due to my ignorance, so I can at least have some idea of what to tell someone it may need when I try to find someone to give me an estimate to repair it? BTW, I live in a rural area and do not have any authorized B&S centers within approx. 80 miles of me (Sears store is about 58 mile away too). One last thing, I have always put new oil and filter, and air filter on it each year, and last year I put a new spark plug on it in addition to the other maintenance - I have tried to keep it running well, but this year I just made a MAJOR/stupid mistake that is gonna cost me......... Thanks for any suggestions guys (and ladies) :-)
...See More
Replace connecting rod on Briggs 24 HP?
Q
Comments (15)
Engillis, I thought I would let you know what you would of been in for, since I rebuilt my 18 HP OHV B&S last year. I knew nothing about rebuilding an engine so it took me about 5 weeks of work. First I got very familiar with the mechanics at 2 John Deere dealerships near me. When one place got pissed off at me for asking so many questions I would go to the other John Deere dealer for awhile until they started getting mad and I would go back to the first JD dealership. I can understand their point of view, since that is their living. You run into all types of problems, and there is an EXACT order things should be taken apart and put back together. It is very expensive too, you will not only need rods, but pistons and new rings too. Then you have to have the engine block re-honed by a professional. You will also need to replace all the gaskets on the heads, block, and every other place too. Then putting everything back together requires some special tools. The hardest thing is getting the pistons back into the block with the 2 rings, and 4 oil rings in the piston grooves. When you are putting everything back in you need special engine lube on all the parts which makes everything very hard to handle. To show you how stupid I was, I first started doing it without the engine manual until the service manager at JD had mercy on my poor soul and gave me a copy. the next stupid thing I did was trying to tighten the bolts back up with a feet/pound torque wrench instead of a inch/pound torque wrench. I almost broke the bolts holding the pistons to the camshaft. I finally got everything back together and it has worked for the last 5 months so far. It was a lot of work, and EXPENSIVE. Finally it is a gamble since if you do not do everything just right the engine could blow up on you within a few hours of use.
...See More
Broken rod 24 Briggs & Stratton Snapper engine
Q
Comments (16)
Hopefully the engine failure analysis will come out in your favor. This is a definite science. Yet the rep has the ability to make their decision towards your side if you prove a good earnest case if the physical evidence says- yes, there is dirt ingestion, yes, the guys a filter isn't new- but was a BS part and should have been doing the job and so on. The reps mission is NOT to deny your claim. If dirt ingestion is due to the inability for the housing to seal, that would be good news with this engine. You wouldn't be the only one who has had that issue if that what it comes back as. I must say that blowing through a paper element is not acceptable as the pressure can tear the media and compromise the filter. Be sure to post how things come out. Bring records of any kind to support your claim of maintenance. Marks on the calender, scribbles on the back of the manual- it all backs your claims.
...See More
bluemower
9 years ago
did your intake valve stick in the guide
or
did the valve guide move out of position?

the bent push rod is a common failure on briggs as well as engines from other manufactures. I have not seen the valve guides moving on other engines however. With the stuck valve, the better repair is to remove the valve to clean the guide. I use a small round nylon brush.

so here is the question. Does the Marvel oil prevent the gum that forms on valve stems, or are owners better off with fuel preserver and draining old fuel?
Danny Martin
9 years ago
No had to replace gears inside and rings, when tearing it apart i loosened the bolts to remove rods and heads, put back all togetherand wantd to know how tight the bolt that holds rocker on should be and how to adjust them afterwards
tomplum
9 years ago
The torque specs, clearances and procedure would be in section 13 of your manual. Ideally use a torque wrench. Otherwise, use common sense. Lock the adjustment nut in place with the set screw and not the other way around. Just a nudge of the nut if you feel you have to. They do break. If you removed the actual stud from the head, clean it well and use red loctite where the stud screws into the head.
Danny Martin
9 years ago
Thanks Tom, I do have a torque wrench, the actural screw that bolts into head, does that screw down tight to the head and center of the rocker or is there a torque spec for that and the procedure to adjust each rocker says to put the piston on tdc on intake valve and make the adjustment now my other question is do you adjust the exhaust rocker at that time too on each head, this is my first time doing this and want to make sure it is done right thanks
tomplum
9 years ago
The stud itself 100 " #s. Unless you have a special deep socket, you will need to do this by feel. Again- loctite the stud to the head. Then snap in your push rods and adjust. The manual should indicate 1/4 " past TDC after the intake valve closes. I set the twins at .004" intake and .006 exhaust. Do 1 head at a time as you will have to reset the other cylinder to the proper position.
Danny Martin
9 years ago
Thank you Tom for the information, if I have any more questions ,I will be back here other wise you all have a great day. You all are the the very best, I am very glad to have found this site ,BEST SITE EVER
walt2002
9 years ago
I would point out here that the Original Service Manuals did say to adjust the valves AT TDC however, a Service Bulletin came out correcting this to 1/4" down past TDC so OP may have an old manual. Also, the fact that this only happens to the one cylinder is further indication of a cooling problem.as I mentioned above. One Mfgr routed the exhaust too close to one of the heads causing such a problem, don't recall who.

Walt Conner

PS: There are at least 3 tried and proven ways to fix a slipped valve guide but buying a new head each time it happens does help the economy.

This post was edited by walt2002 on Sun, Nov 23, 14 at 15:54
Danny Martin
9 years ago
Thanks i will note the change in my book cause it does say tdc in mine. not sure what happened to this one but did find an extra exhaust push rod in the case when i took it apart. I got the mower from my sister and they had someone work on it but before i afjust the valve maybe a good idea to take the valves out and check the valve guides to see if they are ok before i close her up or can you tell by just taking the valve springs out.
tomplum
9 years ago
No need to pull the springs. Just compare the 2 sides whilst the covers are off. If both heads look equally dirty, be extra suspicious. The manuals are all over the place as Walt noted. I think one I have shows the past TDC, but .005 on both!
walt2002
9 years ago
The newer manual calling for adjusting at 1/4" down past TDC does call for adjusting both valves to .005" which is what I do.

Walt Conner
Danny Martin
9 years ago
Thanks Walt, I will look at the heads ,also add these, notes to my manual, really thankful fot your help.

Briggs & Stratton 24 HP thrown push rod - new thread

Comments (13)

walt2002

Danny Martin

Related Discussions

bluemower

Danny Martin

tomplum

Danny Martin

tomplum

Danny Martin

walt2002

Danny Martin

tomplum

walt2002

Danny Martin

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US