Keriann, Thank you! I am a bit confused, because this spot faces east and would get morning sun (8-noon/1:00) That would be too much for the doubles? I really have my heart set on the superbells... You do think they'd be ok there? Yippee! My planters are big (1 ft. wide by 6 foot long.) I have 2 two foot rectangular liners inside each one. How many superbell plants would you put in each 2 foot liner? I'm clearly very new at this, and quite honestly this first year I'd rather keep things as simple as possible. Do you think filling them with all superbells (no filler, spiller, thriller combo) would be alright? Or do I need something with height to go along with the superbells? If so, would regular impatiens or New Guinea's work? Do I really need them? Thank you for the tip on the calibrachoa foliage! I will be sure to water right down into the soil

I would definitely give them some time to recover and sprout new leaves before I chucked them, but possibly keep them in pots so that you don't add to their stress for a week or two if they're not root bound. Even if you get a 50% save rate it's better than nothing at all. I'll cross my fingers they hang in there for you dcd. -Nan

I live in New Zealand and have fought a real battle to grow these plants. We are equvalent to US zone 9, temperate climate. They are susceptible to sudden collapse and root rot, as well as botrytis. They flower like mad if kept slightly pot bound and exposed to lots of direct morning sun. Be careful though as too pot bound impedes drainage and very quickly causes stem rot in these plants. The key seems to be lots of water but with excellent drainage and drier when it is cool. Fallen leaves and flowers causes botrytis almost overnight, so keep the plant clean. A systemic fungicide solved my problems with the Guinea Impatiens and the wilt or sudden collapse problems. Our southern hemisphere midday+ sun is much to bright for them in summer, so they are kept partially shaded in afternoons. They won't flower in full shade, get leggy and eventually collapse. They love misty fine rain in our hot/dry summer and lots of water. I water mine with tepid-warm water like you do with African violets, so as not to shock the plant with sudden cold. Our winters can be rather cold and very wet, so I keep them indoors but fairly close to a window with sun/lots of light and reasonably dry, but never arid to the point where they wilt. I had two 3-year old plants in buckets which flowered beautifully and were fairy large, but they were hit by a rogue frost, albiet a light one and died virtually that day. Each colour of the Guinea Impatiens seems to have different hardiness. The purple colour is by far the strongest and easiest to grow in my opinion, while I find red and white more difficult. Pink is also easy to flower, big blooms but a much smaller plant. Odd eh. Even with failures, I keep buying these plants because they are just so lovely.

Lots of cultural influence can cause chlorotic lower leaves (light issues, soggy soil, nutritional issues, natural senescence, pH, but a N deficiency is a good guess. Too much P in the fertilizer can cause it, too. I probably wouldn't have added the Epsom salts unless you're sure your water is really high in Ca and low in Mg. Al