Hi Canguy and thank you so much for responding! I followed your suggestion and have found the solenoid - it's located inside the panel dash. However, there's not enough room to get my hands or tools in there to remove it. It looks as though I would have to unbolt and lift up or remove the gas tank to gain access. The other option would be to remove the panel dash, but that's fitted over the lift lever. Although I'm not terribly experienced at mechanics, I've read how to change the solenoid and its seems fairly easy, so I figure I can do it. Any thoughts on which of the two options I've mentioned would be the best approach to get to it on this model? Or is there some other way to get to it? Thanks for any further help you can offer.

You CAN change the oil in a "sealed" transaxle. I did mine on my John Deere LT155 (which sports a Tuff Torq transaxle.) I wasn't having problems, but the tractor was approaching 300 hours of use and I wanted to change it. I'm glad I did, as it was looking pretty tired! Since these units don't have drain plugs, you will need to remove the transaxle, wash it off, remove the fill cap and turn the unit upside down to get the old oil out. Take notice of how much oil comes out so you can replace with the correct amount of fresh oil. (Mine took 2 quarts) If you're doing this yourself, use a digital camera to take pictures of the way the belts are routed, and to keep track of any linkage/wiring you have to remove along the way. It will help when you go to put it all back together again. My axle called for 10w-30. I used Mobil 1 15w-50 extended performance, and it's been working great going on the second summer after the change. It sounds like a scary job, but I was able to do it in a few hours taking my time. With what a new transaxle costs, I'd give the oil change a shot before buying a new one. A few other thoughts--make sure that the belts are routed and tensioned properly, that the little fan on top of the transaxle doesn't have any broken fins.

I just remembered that last year before it stopped entirely that sometimes when we would start it it would start right up other times it would just click, like the starter was going out. Also I checked behind the ignition switch and it did look corroded on the back of the switch. If I were to change out the ignition switch do you think that would help? Also how does one do that? Do I just pull out the plug from the back of ignition switch. One more thing, somehow ever since we pushed it up into the garage it is stuck and the wheels won't move, not even in neutral. Wow , what a mess. Please help.

When you upgrade the windshield, use polycarbonate (Lexan) instead of Plexiglass. The Lexan costs a bit more but will not fracture as readily as Plexi. Try to devise a mounting strategy that does not require drilling mounting holes in your windshield panel. Drilling holes in the clear panel for bolts or screws almost guarantees cracks to develop at the hole and spread across the panel. A technique I have used with success is to fabricate a "frame" for the plastic panel from lengths of oak hardwood flooring. I miter cut 4 pieces of this flooring to form something that could pass for a picture frame. The groove or slot of the "tongue & groove" feature is the key here. I rip the tongue part away (and reduce the plank width to the desired dimension at the same time) on my table saw. Then I construct the "frame" (using miter cuts at the corners) so that the "groove" is facing inward (or to the inside of the perimeter of the frame). The frame needs to be sized so that the frame width and height (measured from the bottom of the grooves) is about 1/8 inch greater than the width & height of your plastic panel. Figure out which "side" of this frame is the bottom of the windshield and cut slots with a router, a drill or a circular saw to provide a way for water to drain out of the bottom groove of this plank (make the drainage provision only into the "weather side" of the plank). Assemble the plastic panel into the frame on a flat surface using metal corner braces (from the hardware store). If you did your math right, the edges of the plastic panel will not be visible (except for portions along the outside of the bottom plank where you provided drainage) and the corners of each plank will butt against each other with no gaps. If you have a gap at a corner it means that your frame members are too short. Because of the possibility of cutting your frame members too short, you may want to deliberately cut them a bit long and then shorten them (using miter cuts) in the assembly stage. Once you have a good fit all around (no gaps and no panel edges showing) scribe or otherwise mark each corner of the frame members AND the corners of the plastic panel so that you can reassemble it later EXACTLY as you built it. Now you can put the final touches to the fabrication phase by locating the mounting holes in the frame that will secure the "windshield" to the tractor. DO NOT tighten the windshield down with "brute force" It is best if you make the mounting holes in the wooden frame AND the tractor slightly larger than the bolt or screw diameter you choose. Use flat washers and self locking nuts to hold the windshield assembly to the tractor. This somewhat loose fit will allow for any "flexing or twisting" of the tractor cab to occur without breaking or loosening the plastic panel. After you are satisfied with the fit of the windshield assembly, take it apart and paint each plank (paint the grooves and backside too) with a good grade of paint in the color of your choice. I have also made some "windshields" and side windows using extruded aluminum strips (available at bigger "automotive or commercial glass shops) but for most projects of this nature, the oak tongue & groove flooring works pretty well.