OK JD, let the games begin. LOL First off, let's keep something in mind. This thread is about giving the OP advice as to which SIZE of tractor might best suit his needs. Any advice given, was done so based on whatever he disclosed. And the words he used were "with a 'real' tractor, like a small Kubota, Kioti, Farmall Cub, etc.?". So, he defined what "a real tractor" meant to him and I took him into an even larger series. So...... please read messages carefully before you attempt to chastise me by saying that I am giving out bad info. If someone has five acres or more that they intend to "develop" (check the OP's own words), then having a tractor with a FEL is very handy, as we both know. Running a tractor with a FEL requires more skills than running a tractor without one. Buying a tractor with a two pedal hydro means that the operator doesn't have to think about whether s/he is in the correct gear or range. The trannys in "real tractors" have no syncromesh. If you have a hydro, there is no clutch to wear out or abuse nor will you grind any gears and possibly chip or break a tooth off of one. You mentioned a shuttle shift and I agree that they are great. I have run 580 Case's, JD's and JCB's with them but all of these are TLB's that are well over sixty hp and far larger than the OP needs. Anyone who has a reasonable amount of experience with hydrostatic drive knows about the instant torque multiplying feature that is attained just by lessening the pressure on the forward pedal or levers. No need to stop, put the shuttle in neutral, shift gears and then proceed in a lower gear to dive into the pile. I suggest that you stop by a New Holland dealer and try a TC45DA with a loader out. With a push of a button, that machine will shift from low range while entering and leaving the pile to high so that you can scoot to where you want to drop the material that's in the bucket. In my mind, it doesn't get any simpler or easier to use for the novice or the pro operator. I operated one of those Boomers and was totally impressed. And if 4 wheel drive isn't needed for loader work, then why is it that Cat, Case, JCB, Deere etc all offer that feature and enjoy massive sales. I am not even going to go into the logic behind having 4 wheel drive on a loader because it's a no-brainer. Especially when using a loader in muddy or slippery conditions, which happens all too often. The Ford 4000 is a good tractor but it weighs a 1000 pounds more than the Boomer, was never offered in 4 WD and was made between 1965 and 1975. On top of that, all you get out of the pump is 5.4 gpm. Any 4000 that is out there is likely to have well over 3000 hours on it after a minimum of thirty-two years. So, why would I advise someone to buy tractor technology that old and with that much wear and tear on it? Your comment about bucking the loader is bad information. Manufacturers install cylinders on loaders that are appropriate for the strength of the loader arms. If anything, they err on the side of safety because they don't need the warranty issues. As for the "arse flipping up", you just provided the very reason for 4WD. The second you push the loader bucket deep into the pile and try to lift the load, the front axle becomes the pivot point, thus unloading weight off of the rear tires. When that happens, the rear tires lose traction and spin. Having 4WD provides the needed tractive power to exit the pile. Having a cab with fully operable windows, allows you to work in cold weather with heat on and it keeps the snow and wind from making your life miserable. In warm weather, the cab keeps the sun off of your body but allows the air to flow right on through. Having AC means you can choose to turn it on or off, as need be. Sure, it takes a few hp to run the compressor but having it can mean the difference between doing that chore during the day or waiting until the crack of dawn the next day. If that task happens to be bush hogging ten acres of tall grass, then give me the cab and AC because if the bush hog is sized properly for the tractor, there is still plenty of ponies left to run the AC on a TC45. If you read the OP's latest comment, he was pleased to learn just how new a tractor he could buy and how much tractor he could buy for the ten grand plus budget he gave. So..... this isn't about which tractor pleases me or you. He has his property and perceived needs and you have yours. When it's all said and done, the final choice rests with him after reading and considering all the advice in this thread. Thanks for posting.

There are times when I seek out the little guy, and times when I buy stuff at box stores. I try to keep it in balance. Sometimes Goliath surprises you with his compassion, and other times David pisses you off with his arrogance. Here are a few examples: 1)Weed wacker--good dealer purchase Had my eye on a Husqy 223L trimmer, which Lowe's had for $299. We have a small engine shop here in Jacksonville (Cooper's), which primarly sells Snapper, Husqvarna and Stihl. I figured I'd stop in, and if he were even within 10% of the Lowe's price, I'd buy from him. Turns out he undercut Lowe's by $30, and he now contiunes to get my business. He insisted that I take it outside and test it out--otherwise how would his trimming get done? I always support the local little guy when I can, of course, in Carolina, Lowe's is the local little guy compared to Home Depot. 2)Used John Deere--sour dealer purchase I recently "brokered" a purchase of a JD 265 from a reputable JD dealer (Bombergers Store, Litiz, PA) for my Dad, from three states away. It was a trade-in which was still configured for snow removal. We bought it for just over $1500, with plow, deck and snowblower (installed). My father has never owned a large garden tractor, and is not familiar with the lift system. I knew he'd be excited to take his new tractor up to the property and start mowing as soon as he got his hands on it. Since I obviously wouldn't be there to help him out, I didn't want him to have to skin his knuckles and get his blood pressure up swapping the blower for the deck before he got to use it, so I asked Bombergers if they could swap out the deck before the pickup time five days away. The salesman's response was "For the price this thing's going out of here, I'm not really interested in swapping the deck. We've got a lot to do for OUR customers this week. I'm mechanically inclined and it would take me at least an hour." So I asked him if I were to pay for the full $180 servicing (which includes leveling the deck), would he swap the implements out then? He agreed. Then he called me Friday at 5pm (tractor to be picked up Saturday at 10am) and said they did the service but left the blower on because they decided that wasn't worth their time. Getting really tired of being jerked around, I asked how much to swap the blower for the deck? $100. Fine. So the next morning my Dad picked up the mower, ready to cut, oblivious to the hassle and mugging I'd endured. That weekend I did some grading for my neighbor, going from deck->tiller->blade->deck in a single day, no swap taking more than 10 minutes (same system). The more I thought about it, the more I fumed. By Bomberger's standards, I'd just done $300 worth of labor just in configuring the tractor. I sent the manager an email saying they have one day to get back to me via phone or email to explain the circus that was the previous week--specifically why they didn't do a job we'd agreed on before calling me on a Friday night and demanding another Franklin note--or they could expect negative feedback on eBay. The negative feedback threat was a bluff, actually. Swapping the equipment wasn't in the terms of the sale, so I couldn't ethically destroy their 100% positive feedback for being A-holes for a somewhat separate issue. Monday morning the manager emailed me his phone number, and said he would like to refund the $100 deck swap fee, as he agreed this was outrageous. He also politely scolded me for implying in my email that his techicians were less than skilled mechanics. He's right; I don't know them. For all I know, each of them may have completed the 8th grade with a passing average. The whole time they kept referring to what they do for "their" customers. I'm assuming they mean the people who buy new $7,000 mowers, because apparently spending $1,800 on used equipment doesn't get you into the club. My Dad lives an hour away and could very well have become one of the elite few "Bombergers Customers." But after hearing about what I'd went through to get them to swap the attachments, it's a fair bet he will never seek that status. 3) Table saw--good box store purchase The Craftsman folding table saw I've had my eye on for a year, with sliding miter and built-in router table (#21829) finally went on sale this weekend, from $450 to $350. After reading the Sears Ad in the Sunday paper I grabbed my two year old and went for a ride. As I went to check out, I noticed a ball-bearing chest (#61805/61809) set also heavily discounted. Unfortunately, due to the hot price, they had sold out of them. "Okay, so how much for that one?" The sales guy looked it over... "How's 15% off sound?" Sounds like I'm going to need to stow the third row seat to make it home... Since my credit card doubles the mfg warranty, I wanted to pay for the saw first, then pay cash for the chest. "Craftsman club member? 10% off today." Nope. So he pulls his card out of his pocket and discounts the chest another 10%. With the chest receipt came a $25 off coupon off my next purchase, which was the table saw... 20 seconds later. Once again he swiped his club card and knocked another 10% off. As I pulled out of the parking lot, I had a brand new $450 table saw on sale for $350, club discounted to $292; and a $450 tool chest combo, on sale for $370, floor model discounted to $277. Granted I didn't plan on spending $600 two weeks before we go on vacation, and I now will have to go without the 15gal tow-behind sprayer I'd planned to buy this season, but it wasn't a bad day for the consumer. The big corporations might not give a hoot about us, but every now and then you'll find someone working the register who does.

reply by theodocus struck me as coming from the desk of the ad agency of MTD. No mention of the actual operation that involves rolling over uneven terrain and jarring action from bumps and uneven spots and the fragile fabricated axles that bend and crack easily. Oh, there is also the bushings used in place of ball bearings: bushing use requires higher horsepower to move the newer units. The Deere has points and condenser; cost $5.00 and 9.00 respectively and the sears is a solid state igntion. Newer technology is wonderful as long as it is coupled with quality assemblage in a product. I have a 1968 Sears GARDEN tractor with a 12HP Tecumseh Heavy duty cast iron engine with ball bearings and cut with a 42 inch deck and also have a 1976 John Deere GARDEN tractor with a cast iron 10 HP engine with ball bearings and cut with a 42" deck and use both alternately for mowing two acres and for tilling and moving earth, etc.. Each has cast iron axles and mutli-speed hi-lo transmissions and EACH is used for plowing, snowblowing, tilling earth, hauling 1100 lb loads in attached large carts. EACH will run circles around the new 20 plus HP light LAWN tractors made today. Spend 5,000.00 and you will have a comparable heavy duty GARDEN tractor. By the way, good luck on getting even 10 years of use with the new wonders.

I had a problem similar with my JD LA100.I checked all that you checked with no good results.I disconnected the spark plug and tried to turn the motor by hand!It was jammed.I rocked it back and forth and then whatever jammed the motor gave way.Hooked up the plug and it started right up.The problem has not happened again!I do wish i knew why it happened.The starter couldnt do the job because something was jamming the motor.I bet if i tried starting more than i did i would of burned up the starter.