You have one of the best Z turns made in my book. I have a 260Z 27hp Kohler, 60" hydraulic lift deck, floating front axle that I have owned since 2005 and have yet to experience the first problem. Now to your question. Yes you can use the rear engine guard to lift the mowers tires off of the ground. I do recommend that you place Jack stands on the frame rails on each side between the plate and the rear tires. Then raise and support the front axle with jack stands also to keep the mower from rolling. For as you know the handles must be in Neutral, Parking brake set and the Seat switch activated or disconnected before the mower will even start. A helper helps. For they can operate the mowers control while you are free to check for leaks and/or any problems while the machine is in operation on the stands.

The part you refer to as reservoir is an oil expansion tank. This tank may appear to be near empty when the transaxle fluid is cold but the level will usually rise as the transaxle oil heats up. For this time I am going to include a URL where you can download a free PDF service manual covering this unit. The oil to use is specified in the manual as being 20W50 having an API classification of "SL". That is an older API classification and you may find the oil on the store shelf now carries a current classification of "SN". You can use any API classification of SL, SM, or SN that you find available. The manual covers the drain and fill process in a step by step manner. Basically you need to remove the transaxle assembly from the tractor and turn it upside down over a suitable catch container and allow it to drain out through the filler opening port. If the URL gets removed by the forum just e-mail me and I'll give it to you. http://www.hydro-gear.com/Service-Manuals/310-0510 BLN-51260_P2.pdf This post was edited by mownie on Sun, Dec 16, 12 at 22:01

Good Point, I didn't know that transaxles were shipped "filled" by the OEM. Assumed that everything was bolted together at the factory and then filled. I think I confused myself thinking about the Generac Genset I purchased which came with a brown container of labeled "generator oil" with instructions to fill and change after five hours. Guess Generac sells enough gensets to have someone relabel oil. Yeah, it's "apples and rhutabagas." I bought the Generac as it was an American Mfg. Then I find out that under 8 or 10KW the engines are "generic 4 cycles" which translates to chinese..... Has worked well though. Yep, cooling fins are supposed to dissapate heat, not be filled solid with crud. Thanks for the info, Ev

Seems many people don't realize todays mower corps say not to change oil is only to sell more units, even making it harder to change trans oil on many units so we wont. Why they doing that? Those who believe its not needed & dont change it really don't understand todays mowers or these manufactures being all about planned obsolescence today, Google it. Trans are not failing from abuse I've seen many hydro units that have never pulled a load or been abused in any way fail with less than 300hrs. Grass cleaned off too btw so fans never broke or clogged (causes it too). These trans are designed to fail early unlike yesterdays mowers that outlasted these 10 to 1 easy. Heck my two Wheel Horses still run & operate just like new, one is a 1976 my other a 1988. I see 40+ year old Wheel Horses all the time with 2000 hrs still doing everything just fine including hauling, tilling gardens and pushing snow you just name it and many only had maintenance, no majors to date in all their decades of use so they can build them if they choose too. I pull, till & haul all the time with my old WH tractors they both seen it all, I pulled my LX176 with my 414 WH today matter of fact because it didn't start again. We have a 2008 Husqvarna/Craftsman YT 4500 we inharated when father n law passed and all its ever mowed was a 1/2 acre flat lot, never pulled or abused. Always adult operated & maintained Husqvarna dealer. It's trans started slipping suddenly at only 230hrs once it heated up. I removed the plug on top & drained with a long small diameter hose attached to a drill pump. Very easy like that. Added 10w-40 and it stopped slipping now. It still slowed just a little after heating up so I chiseled the floor out near the pedal and linkage to allow more pressure helping oil flow through the trans when pedal pressed and its never slowed again. Much faster too. They never allowed enough pressure to them by limiting the pedal and it greatly shortens trans life as the trans oil must flow to help cool. Just like engine oil cant be restricted without failure? I know people who used the Husqvarna/Craftsmans in landscaping/mowing business's and got over 800 hrs if they chiseled floor a little so pedal moved more. About 400 hrs tops if they didnt. I think it was built like that to limit their speed so they could sell you a faster mower for more money because I know the next few models up use the same trans/wheel size but are 2-3mph faster speed. Change that fluid without a doubt but a hammer & chisel does wonders on some mowers too, check pedal clearance..