If that splash of fuel didn't make it try to run, I would check for spark, maybe replace the spark plug for giggles. If you temporarily disconnect the coil kill wire, have a known good plug and still don't have spark- it would be your coil. Unless you were lucky enough to have smart spark- then it is just likely your coil.... If it tried to run, then you have spark, maybe you have water or debris in carb. Sounds good/ normal as it cranks?

Which wire is the kill wire? I did stick a screwdriver in the plug wire and grounded to bracket and had no spark.
Is the coil the part on top of the flywheel? Sorry to sound so dumb I haven't messed with this stuff much but willing to learn.

You can download a service manual at the Kohler website.

Checked the manual at kohler it said check ignition module with ohm meter it should be 7900-18400 I got 1445
looks like this is it to me am I right?

Assuming you had the meter on the correct scale.

I checked on all my ohms settings it went from infinity to 14.5

If your 1445 reading was on RX10, the coil shows good.
OR
14.5 on RX1000

"it backfired 2-3 times and would not start again. Spins freely"

"Backfired, Spins Freely" does it have any compression? Thinking stuck valve.

Walt Conner

Pulled the kill wire again and I got spark while the plug was ground. Put the plug back in and it started two times after that. Then it would not start back up. Tried several times more than it started. Checked the kill wire to the switch it had continuty all the way through. Possibly a bad switch?

A lot of things are possible, including bad fuel. A bit of water in the gas could cause your symptoms. Water collects in the bottom of the tank and when "jostled" a bit, gets picked up and runs down to the carb.

I cut grass for about an hour with the wire off so its probabaly not the gas.

with the kill wire pulled off I turn the key and the only thing that happens is the fuel solenoid opens I can use a screwdriver to bypass starter solenid is this the solenoid or switch

What's the Sears 917.xxxxxx number?

Are you getting 12V to the small terminal on the starter solenoid when in the crank position.

917271013
no voltage on the small terminals in the crank position

So there are 2 small terminals?
IF so, on eshould go to ground and the other is from the switch.
Jump 12V directly to the one from the switch and the engine should crank. That would eliminate the solenoid & starter motor.

You have checked for?
Blown fuse
PTO switch off
Trans in neutral
Clutch pedal depressed.

I don't have a schematic for your specific tractor.
Sears has about a 1/2 dozen or more somewhat "generic" ones, so I probably have one that works. I just need to identify which one, so I have a questionaire:-)

Does it have an electric PTO?
Does the engine have to run to have headlights?
Is the headlight switch part of the ignition switch, or a separate switch?
Fuel cutoff solenoid?

HI Bill
Jumped 12 volt to small terminal and it started
no blown fuses
pto is off
neutral
clutch is depressed (recommended psychiatrist) ;)

No electric pto
engine has to has to run for headlights (that do not work)
headlight switch is part of ignition switch
fuel solenoid works fine

"Jumped 12 volt to small terminal and it started "
That eliminates the solenoid & starter motor as the problem.

OK- download this manual. (Sears 917# IS different than yours)
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/98100079.pdf

IF you have the your own owners manual, compare the 2 schematics. The one in the link is about 2 pages from the end. Let me know if the start circuit is different!

-
"Here's how the system works-

When the key is in the crank position, the S (WHITE wire) terminal on the Ignition switch receives 12V from the B (RED wire) terminal of the Ignition switch. (There MUST be 12V AT the B terminal!)
The 12V (WHITE wire?) goes through the Clutch Switch and then through the Attachment Switch to the Starter Solenoid.
ERGO-
Ignition Switch, Clutch Switch or Attachement Switch is bad or mis adjusted.
OR the connector(s) is bad OR a broken wire.

To test the IGNITION Switch, unplug it and jumper B to S on the connector, while going through the other things you do when you start the engine.

The Clutch & Attachment Switches can both be jumpered to bypass them.
Use the Voltmeter (or 12V test light), checking for 12V at the "entrance" & "exit" of each switch. (When in the CRANK position)

OR, you could jumper one or both switches to eliminate them as a possibility.

I have the kill wire pulled off the coil would all of this be causing it to want to stop?
It did start with the key one time today.
I'll try to check this tomorrow evening

The kill wire off the coil should prevent it from stopping, not make it do so! The kill wire has NOTHING to do with cranking the engine.

I'm guessing one of your connectors is intermittent or a switch is misadjusted or flaky.

I guess I meant if a switch is out of wack is that why I am having to take the kill wire off

I have power on the white wire coming from the switch when in start position and nothing at the clutch switch on either side of it put the multi meter on it and the switch is being made when pressed same thing on the blade switch no power but switch is making.
I do not seen any damage to the wire but it is in a wire loom so I'll check that when I get a chance

You may have a wire that is chaffed and is grounding intermittently. Trace the wires from start to finish.

I'm still curious IF you have the owners manual with the schematic.
AND if you do, does it match the one I posted?

It's not the same schematic. Of course the wires on the switches are not labeled as to the color. I tried to scan it and post it but I could not. When I get a chance I'll trace the wires out

"I have power on the white wire coming from the switch when in start position and nothing at the clutch switch ....."

Then the wire or its terminals are bad.

What are the differences in the schematic?

The main differences I see in the schematic are 2 operator presence relays and the seat switch

Are BOTH the relays marked with-
85, 86, 87, 87A & 30?

Also, what is your tractor?
LT 3000 GT 4000 or etc. ????

Approx year built?

You can email your scan to-
bkapaun AT hotmail DOT com

How about this schematic?

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0104113.pdf

I've got a 18HP Kohler engine often stalls out the backfires while being restarted. Now it won't start at all.
Starter turns engine but no starting even when injecting starter fluid. Gas is good. Fuel line fine. Carb, float & jets OK, Compression right on, magneto gives spark to plug and OHM resistance on magento is OK. If you keep cranking gas gets sucked into cylinder and plug gets wet. One can feel air going in and out of engine (suction at carb blow by at muffler). As a one cylinder engine there isn't that much to go wrong. Craftsman 917.272.481
Any suggestions?

It would be best to start a new post, instead of having to filter through all the previous posts in this thread.
That said, try unplugging the Operator Presence Relay #1 and see what happens.
You can see the color code of the wire in your owners manual to make sure it's not OPR 2 or 3.