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ride mower throttle have no affect.

14 years ago

Hi can anyone please help me with my ride mower. my ride mower start but when i move the throttle up and down. the engine have no affect. i check all the cable from the throttle handle and it seem to be everything move as well.because one day i take it out and cut my yard the engine is still running fine, but suddenly i hear a real loud noise"""bummm""" then the idle down to the low gear. and the ride mower just like dragging. everything start fine but it won't throttle up....please any mechanic expert please help me solve this problem...

thank you so much.....

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Comments (4)

tomplum
14 years ago
ARe you saying the engine speed became slow abruptly after a loud noise? Did it seem like a loud engine noise or something the deck may have hit? Model and make on the engine / rider may help.
thainguyen
Original Author
14 years ago
yes tomplum after i heard the noise then the engine speed become slowdown. i thought i hit something too but i look around there is nothing...i thought it is a backfire or something. my model is scott john deere ridemower, brigg and stratton v-twin intek 20hp and 46' engine.so tomplum what do you think?
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First: Check where the throttle cable is clamped to the engine. If that clamp is loose, the throttle housing will move instead of just the wire inside. Remove the engine cover, and check for grass, dirt, mouse nest, and various other things in there that will block the flow of cooling air for the engine! Check gas cap for a bug nest in the breather hole. Check the air filter for being really dirty. Install new spark plug. And, carb may be dirty inside, A good soak in cleaner and a blow-out of all passages would probably help. check your gas can for water condensation inside of them. It does happen! A bit of Dry-gas in the tank does wonders. There is a funnel available that takes any water out of the gas when you pour it into yer tank. Can't remember the name-somebody here will know it.
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Colorblind - If your husband owned a lawn service, he must know that a residential unit cannot compete with commercial. Residential units have lower blade speed for safety reasons. I have a Massey Ferguson (aka Simplicity) with a 50" deck and a turbo bagger. It also has a 20HP mower. It has plenty of power and cuts well, but the commercial units cut better. I used to have a Deere LT150 with a bagger that cut very well. My neighbors' landscaper uses an Exmark with a 60" deck. He does bag it and it looks AWESOME when he is done. Much better than mine :(. My other neighbor has a Toro spin steer (possibly residential cost about 3 grand). Cuts very well and he mows once a week with NO BAGGING. That appears to be a great model. I drove it once and did not feel comfortable, so I bought another tractor. Even a used commercial unit might be a good option. I swear the higher blade speed makes even a crappy lawn look better. My next unit will be a commercial or I will pay a service.
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Since you have replaced the coil, remember the small black electrical wire that connected to the coil? This is the "kill wire. Grounding this wire kills the engine electrically. Trace this wire leading from the coil and look for bare spots where insulation has been eaten away. If you find any bare spots, tape them well with electrical tape or make a new wire (if capable). If you do not find any bare spots in the wire, we will have to presume that there is a problem with a seat switch, or the ignition switch kill wire circuit. This wire should reach a junction point, possibly on the Briggs engine throttle panel board where the throttle cable connects. Disconnect the wire where it fastens to the junction point. CAUTION, when you do the next part of this test you will have touch the end of this wire to a metal surface to kill the engine (if it cranks and runs). With the wire disconnected, position it so it can't touch a grounded surface. Try to crank the engine, or at least check for a spark while the kill wire is loose. If you now get spark, or the engine cranks, the basic ignition system is good and the fault is going to be in the seat switch or the ignition switch, or the wiring serving those switches.
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In addition to tomplums great advice I would also remove the gas tank and clean it out if you machine is a few years old. You maybe susprised whats laying at the bottom where the fuel pick up is. And if this machine is over 7 years old I would personnal change the fuel lines. That way I will not have to worry about a fuel contamination problem for quite awhile unless something unusual happens like fueling it with contaminated gas or letting it set for a long period of time with todays gas in it.
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njdpo
14 years ago
You didnt let your Mother-In-Law near your mower - did you ?

The first thing that comes to mind is - the governor spring broke which might give you that problem...

But with a bang - im wondering if something internal within the engine went wrong - and now the governor does work at all...

If this was the case - check the oil / changing the oil - and looking for heavy metal debris may indicate something badly wrong internally.

At this point you have to decide weather to fix/replace the engine or replace the mower.

Check the oil and see if its low - and see if it has a metallic shine to it ... (smell it too - aluminum in oil smells funky )

Have someone move the throttle while you inspect the throttle linkage at the carb - if its broken that would be a cheap fix... ( But that still doesn't explain the loud bummmm sound )...

See if you can find the governor arm and shake it a bit - see if its loose - or just completely broken ... look for cracks on the motor around that area.

Anybody else have any ideas ?

I have the same unit (JD made Scotts 2046) ... If you junk it - then let me ask up front - do you have a bagger system you'd like to sell from it ?

Good luck ...
rustyj14
14 years ago
Check the throttle cable housing clamp, where ever it is located. If that clamp is loose, it will allow the entire cable to move, instead of just the inner part, which is how it works!

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