Did you install a new kit? You have to be sure on the seals on the ends of the fuel pick up tube. Are you getting black smoke along with the rough running? Oil level OK with no signs of fuel in it?

well, lessee how this looks: "30.8. Slip the crankshaft pulley down far enough to get the belt off of the pulley, and remove the belt from the crankshaft. See Figure 30.8. NOTE: Belt keepers that are part of the tractor frame prevent the belt from being removed without lowering the pulley. NOTE: The pulley may be removed from the crankshaft at the discretion of the technician." That's right out of the 1000-1500 series serv manual.... and I don't really know if there is enuff room to lift thet engine straight up with the ground drive pulley in place to be able to wangle the ground drive belt off past those fixed keepers - which I fully agree are something of a PITA. just saying... MHO.

simplest things first: 1) make sure you have the "RevTech" feature on the ignition sw. panel prooerly engaged. Then attempt to operate the tractor as you have described. The reason for this is your forward /reverse drive pedal is a relatively sensitive single "rocker" pedal - and you my be unwittingly momentarily tipping it toward reverse which will immediately shut down the deck. Having the RevTech feature engaged will eliminate this from happening. 2) if prob still exists, remove batt, take to qualified shop and have it Load tested. A marginal battery can sometimes cause intermittent PTO problems. 3) Beyond that, suggest getting qualified shop help. The related control circuitry is somewhat complex and is best diagnosed/repaired by qualified personnel.. mho. Good luck.

The seat switch isn't in the crank circuit, so you don't have to worry about being in the seat for the SOLENOID tests. Basically, jumping 12V to the SMALL solenoid terminal should result in the solenoid engaging and the starter motor cranking. You are bypassing ALL switches (in the crank circuit) when you do this. Clicking indicates a couple different possibilities- 1. Battery low- As soon as the starter motor engages, it pulls down the voltage enough that the solenoid "drops out". Since the starter isn't trying to turn any more, voltage jumps back up and the solenoid re-engages. Repeat with a "machine gun effect" of rapid clicking. I'd really suggest getting the battery charged and LOAD tested. Autozone and similar places will do a free load test in hopes of selling you a battery. 2. BAD connection in the crank circuit. This is basically your "heavy gauge" battery cables & connections + the ground circuit, which includes engine mounting bolts being tight etc. 3. Possibly a bad solenoid? With your volt meter hooked across the 2 large solenoid studs (it'll read 12V), jump 12V to the small solenoid terminal. IF the solenoid is switching internally like it should, the Volt meter should drop to near ZERO. This is because the voltage is traveling through the "switch". IF the solenoid CLICKS, but does not crank, observe the Volt Meter. IF it shows 12V, it means the internal switch is bad and the voltage is trying to travel through the meter.