I'm not sure of the answer to your question, but I'm working on my friend's '67 10hp Landlord. It's quite a solid engine. I was easily able to get parts for it through Milaca, for what it's worth.

Here is a link that might be useful: Milaca

I have a 1966 Landlord w/a 10hp B&S,I don't think an electronic chip will work,new points and condenser should solve the issue(if it's the coil ya just about have to pull the engine to repair it)....be sure the points plunger is not leaking oil shorting the points,and if water gets in the points housing it is also an issue ,I think I have replaced my points once in the 18 years I have owned my tractor .....water in the steel fuel tank is more of an issue ,in these ole tractors....Good Luck Jim

I would have thought a chip would work but it will start better with good points and condenser. Point gap is critical as it affects a mysterious thing called "edge gap" not to be confused with "air gap"

Walt Conner

thanks sofar for info.when i turn on the key should one of the wires going to the points be live or does it have to be running to get juice from the coil.this info would help if the coil would need replaced.also there is a wire with a bakalite end hooked to the points cover bolt.should it be insulated from this bolt or is it fine this way.reason i ask this is when i took points cover off something coud have droped like a little washer. thanks for info

One side of the coils should be hot whenever the switch is on. The other side should be hot until the points close at which time it should go to very close to zero.

Basically, one side of the points should be grounded. When the points close they allow voltage to flow through the coil to ground causing a magnetic field to build up in the coil.

When the points open the magnetic field collapses and the stored magnetic energy is concerted to electrical energy and the coil releases this as high voltage to the spark plug.

If you put a test light across the points side of the coil you can observe this easily. When the light goes from on to off is when the spark is fired. This is called a static timing light.

Good luck.

the coil is not easily aceseble and am wondering if i could check power at the points on the wires at the points them self thankyou

If this is a briggs 230000 series there is no power to the points (NO 12 volts) the spark circuit is seperate from the starting/charging circuit ....the square piece of bakelite is an insulator for the kill wire from the ignition switch....if you apply 12 volts to the coil,you'll kill it ....it is not an automotive style system.Good Luck Jim

There was previous discussion - several years ago - on this topic. You probably have the 240000 series engine.

A person experienced with the old cast iron engines explained the point style engine could not be converted to electronic ignition without changing the flywheel or sending the flywheel to Briggs for re-magnetizing the flywheel. This gentleman explained the polarity of the magnets was wrong for the magnetron ignition. He further commented Briggs did not charge him for this service.

Is all of this true? Perhaps there are some techs who would comment.

I would inspect the points and replace them if there was any pitting. The gap must be set correctly and the contacts must be clean. Engine timing can be set on some of these engines by rotating the coil mounting bracket. The antique engine manual provides instructions.

You will find lots of information and help over at this club.

Here is a link that might be useful: Simplicity

i realy apreciate all your help. yes i do have a 24000 engine. i willget points and condenser for it. is all you do is turn engine over till points are at there widest.replace with new at what gap.also is coil in a strange place on these.thankyou all