well, if it smells like dirt, then it can't too bad, whatever it is! black is the normal range for color, whatever causes it IMO what you've found is that there's an endless number of questions about the process, what to use, what the results are, how and why to use it, what the "end product" contains, etc - I'd spread it around [well diluted] and put the solids back in the pile or spread it on the ground, call it an experiment Bill

I see this is an old thread altho there are probably a lot of new posters who have not seen it. Blucolt, I would not add compost to a rain barrel unless you have an air pump going in it or plan to use the entire barrel within a few days. I don't make compost tea but do make alfalfa tea which I believe is a similar situation with becoming anaerobic. Many people think alfalfa tea *should* smell bad but I disagree. It's OK IMO for it to ferment and smell yeasty, but when it starts to stink I just blast water in with the hose which introduces oxygen and the obnoxious smell disappears (for awhile). My method is to put one large coffee can of alfalfa pellets in a 5 gallon bucket and fill with water. I let it settle and sometimes use immediately if I need to and always refill with water. Almost every day I water a few plants with tea using one large coffee can of liquid from the 5 gallon bucket in my (3 gallon?) watering can and filling with water. The color should be, in the case of alfalfa tea, a pale green. With compost tea I would think it should be a pale brown. I then blast more water into the 5 gallon bucket introducing more oxygen. This one bucket lasts at least a week and I then spread the remaining residue on top of the soil around plants. I believe it is harmful to use anaerobic teas in concentrated form as I almost killed one of my lilacs a few years ago when I dumped an entire bucket of anaerobic alfalfa tea on it. It has recovered but it was touch and go for awhile. I apply alfalfa tea to every new plant, every time I move a plant, to any plant that looks 'poorly', when my plants need watering during drought, and to roses and other heavy feeders at least once a week. It's my main fertilizer as it encourages root health and earthworm activity. I only occasionally use it to foliar feed because I don't want to do this in bright sunlight so it's not always convenient.

Is compost tea that has been brewing for too long harmful? Is the above statement referring to aerated or non-aerated? And, about it getting stinky, (apparently that's the only type I'm good at making :)) Is stinky tea still good???? I'm been dumping mine 'cause I'm not sure. Real new at CT too. Guess, what I'm trying to find out is: can the end product EVER be bad and harmful to the plants? Talking straight compost tea, not manure or manured compost tea as they are different animals, ok? Just as with compost itself, anaerobic tea isn't desirable. Not that it is flat-out harmful any more than anaerobic compost is harmful, but it does contain undesirable bacteria, molds, and fungi so it isn't safe to use as a general spray or foliar feed even if diluted well. Used as root drench it is ok as long as you avoid splashing it on plant leaves or using it on root crops or low-growing leafy greens where it can contaminate them with those pathogens. Both aerated or non-aerated teas can become anaerobic if brewed too long although aerated takes longer to turn anaerobic. But honestly, there is no benefit to such long brewing times. Either way, 12-24 hour tea is perfect and then pull the bag, 48 hours if areated. And brew smaller amounts that you know you can use within that time frame. If you have a bucket or barrel that has turned anaerobic double the dilution on it and aerate it by stirring well or pouring back and forth from bucket to bucket until the worst of the odor dissipates. Dave

I seriously doubt the molasses benefit to lawns. Do your actual research and post any reviewable study on the use of sugars in the lawn. Here is a posting from the University of Oregon on the subject that should put to rest a lot of the myths: Q: Is there any scientific proof showing that molasses is good for plants? I've been advised by a friend to add 2 to 4 tablespoons of molasses to a gallon of water every two weeks per plant. – Multnomah County A: Thank you for your question. The only scientific research I can find directly applicable to your question is a 1957 article. As you can imagine, in the intervening 60-plus years, far more is known about soil itself, microorganisms that live there, and nutrients. Molasses is refined from sugarcane or beets and is mainly a carbohydrate (sugar). Blackstrap molasses contains vitamin B6, calcium, magnesium, iron and manganese. The last four are nutrients needed by plants in small amounts (micronutrients). There has also been some research into the addition of molasses, as a nutrient, to compost tea that you can read about. There are other organic and chemical means to supply plants these nutrients, which are researched and have measurements of their contents, an advantage your molasses container lacks (and which, of course, is greatly diluted by the addition of water recommended by your friend.) – Kris LaMar, OSU Extension Master Gardener As far as compost tea goes. Depending on how it is derived the brew can result in someone getting mighty sick. Studies have shown high values for pathogens like salmonella, listeria, etc. All of which can put you in the hospital. The University of Arizona has a great review of compost tea and after reading it and other scientific evaluations, there is no way I'm using compost tea. Not worth the effort. Everybody wants a magic bullet. In my opinion, the best approach is to get a good soil test, review the data, and address nutrient issues via solid data. Nothing is better than topdressing in the fall with a good compost mixture, aeration, etc. Nowadays there are several cheap machines that can easily dethatch a yard without back breaking raking. I believe Ryobi is coming out with a battery operated model. Put the time in, forget the lawn myths, and save yourself from a lot of frustration and time lost.