Hello Broncosfan, Your 3 amp charging system has a two wire connector that plugs into a two wire connector on the tractor. One wire from the engine is DC power - equipped with a diode. The diode prevents battery voltage from flowing back to the engine and discharging the battery. The other wire is the AC power that feeds the headlight switch. The 9 amp system has a one wire connector that delivers DC voltage. The tractor two wire connector will not plug into the replacement engine without some type of modification that connects the engine DC wire to the Tractor DC wire. If you attempt this, do not wire in the original diode as it is not needed. After connecting the DC to DC wire, you will need a power source for the tractor AC wire. One solution is to connect this wire to the DC power. I suggest installing a fuse at the connection point. The real problem with this modification is the possibility of dead batteries if the headlight switch is left in the "on" position. My recommendation is to select a Briggs replacment engine. Transfer the original charging system to the new engine.

***"All the seat switch does is complete the ground circuit for the electric clutch. Nothing to do with the kill circuit."*** OK, I'm with you so far, and that is what I see too, looking at the schematic. BUT, the manual does state "Your tractor is equipped with an operator presence sensing switch. When engine is running, any attempt by the operator to leave the seat without first setting the parking brake will shut off the engine." My point is that..........Either the owner's manual is erroneous in stating that the engine will die when seat is vacant without the parking brake being set..............or the schematic is erroneous in that it DOES NOT illustrate any circuitry necessary to KILL the engine if seat is vacant without the parking brake being set. I understand perfectly how the cranking circuit half of the brake switch works/functions and have no issues with how THAT is depicted in the schematic. There is no way that disabling the seat switch would allow the engine to crank with the brake pedal up. But the other half of the brake switch and the OPR circuits CANNOT kill the engine as the schematic is drawn. Note to kirk: There is no place on the carb where a 5/8" bolt could be put. Possibly a 5/16" bolt, but not 5/8". If you are doing the repairs/diagnosis yourself, you can remove the fuel solenoid from the carb and make certain the plunger is free to move in and out with slight finger tip pressure. If the plunger does not push in and spring back out easily you can try cleaning the bore that the plunger travels in (the bore on the solenoid, not the carb) with spray carb cleaner. The carb itself may also need to be cleaned out good with spray carb cleaner.

I'm helping a lady friend with her Troy-Bilt lawn tractor. It has a Kohler 22hp Courage engine that starts right up every time and then shuts down immediately just like the key has been turned off. This tractor has a 'reverse' safety circuit key position on the ignition switch. I discovered that if I turn the key back and forth between the 'reverse' position and the regular 'run' position, before the engine actually coasts all the way down, the ignition switch seems to make contact and the engine rpm will pick back up and the engine will stay running with no further issues until you turn the key to the off position - then you start over again the next time you try to start-up. I thought the ignition switch was faulty and replaced it, that was not the solution - the problem still exists. It should probably be noted that on rare occasions, the engine will actually start and stay running with a normal twist and release of the key.

I have a walk behind with a blown kawasaki fb469 vs on a scag walk behind mower . Can i replace it a kohler 13hp engine? Will it fit holes and tran.? thanks jim