Getsome: Google two things: Peach Bacterial Spot, then Peach Scab. After you do this, you will ask yourself "How the hell can I tell one from the other"? When this happens, you will be in exactly the same situation I have been for years. It's hard to tell the difference, but if you look closely at the photos produced by your Googling, you might be able to figure it out. Bacterial spot is more likely to spread to the leaves (where it is often called shothole), and the twigs and branches, where it is called bacterial canker. Sounds pretty confusing. Well it is. But no matter. The actions you can take, other than planting varieties resistant to bacterial spot, are exactly the same. Keep your trees pruned so sunlight can directly strike the fruiting limbs and twigs, and ideally each individual peach. When the vigorous peach tree sends up a lot of new vertical growth above the fruit, effectively shading the peaches, prune it off. This usually occurs in the month of June, but can be a little earlier or later. Sometimes I have to prune twice during the growing season. I have been able to control, and totally eliminate these diseases in some years (but not all) by timely dormant spraying with the strong copper compound called Kocide, combined with the aforementioned cultural practices. Picking up and discarding all drops, and removing mummies from the trees is also important, as these can be a reservoir of disease for the following season. If you have had yellowed, infected leaves, rake them up and get them out of the orchard area. After the trees leaf out and fruit begins to form, you can also use a fungicide like Captan on the trees, although theoretically this should have no effect on bacterial disease, but might against the fungally based scab. I have occasionally applied a fungicide used by commercial operators called Topsin, though not every year. It may not be necessary if May and June are dry and sunny. These diseases are pervasive in the eastern U.S. Get a copy of the Adams County Nursery catalog and you will see each variety classified by its disease resistance. I have had BS practically defoliate and kill a number of trees with little resistance, such as Bellaire, Hale Haven, Jerseyglow, Sweethaven, and Madison. I took them out, but of course this was before I discovered Kocide. Yet, an older NJ variety, Golden Jubilee (1926) delivered over 150 lbs. of large, perfect peaches last season, and this is an old tree that should be dead by now. So just do a little reading on these subjects, and come back if you are still confused. There is always something that can be tweaked, but it's not always easy. If you are not of the minimal maintenance or organic persuasions then there ought to be a way you can produce good peaches. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Fenster, Have you try to cut one of the dropped peach to see if any worm in it? Does the fruit has a clear goo oozing out of it? Tony

Another reason that fruit drop is that the fruit are internally damaged by insects boring inside and eat the seeds. You should check the dropped fruit for signs of insect damage. Anyway, if you do not thin, your peaches will not grow to their full size and the taste won't be good. Some say using 6" apart, some say 8". I know some people go as far as 10 -12" apart per peach. Another way to think of it is, you should aim at reducing about 70-80% of your peaches. It is very hard to do but you should do it. The sooner you do it when peaches are baby, the better.

Go up to the top of the page to click on garden forums, then click on Fruit and orchards forum. They aren't as active as the trees forum, but fruit is their thing and you should get some answers.