Thanks Michael. I have a lot of blooms now after using the Bayer's 2 in 1, and sprayed Bayer's complete insect killer (front yard), Bioneem ( back yard) a couple of times. But I still have a lot of roses only have 50% of the buds can make it to bloom, and still have some roses without any blooms, I knew I didn't put enough amount Bayer's 2 in 1 on all the roses. I didn't put any around once bloomers, Polar Joy rose trees, newly planted bare root roses (planted in late May early June), now I see midge damage on those. It's time to treat them. I got one beautiful bloom out of MAC two weeks ago after 2 years of no blooms, that's a good start ....... Which product contains cyfluthrin-only? I googled it and found eBay has it-Cykick($38). Is that the one? I tried to spray only Bayer's complete insects killer for midge last year, It didn't work without Bayer's 2 in 1. I am willing to mix the fungicide and cyfluthrin only. If that can kill midge and I don't have to use Bayer's 2 in 1.($45 per treatment) If I still have to use both of them, it would cost me even more than current treatment($45+$38), I learned cost accounting, can you tell? :-) Thanks for a great idea.

Since I haven't had to deal with midge, I can't tell you what to do, but I strongly suggest you avoid the Bayer products that are labeled 3-in-one, 2-in-one, or all-in-one--unless someone (with knowledge) specifically recommends one of them for this treatment. In most cases, these combo Bayer products are, at best, a waste of ammunition (curing everything your rose doesn't suffer from) and, at worst, actually harmful to Mother Nature and detrimental to a sane and safe and effective garden health program. I'm serious--avoid Bayer combos as a general rule. However, there is a Bayer insecticide (no combo stuff in it--just an insecticide) that might be helpful, but you would have to read the directions to know for sure. I'm sure some more knowledgeable person will come along shortly and help you out. Good luck. Kate

It is actually suggested around here that you plant roses with the graft union several inches below ground so that if the plant does die back to the ground that what comes back from the root has a chance to be your preferred plant, which may have grown some of its own roots. Then mulch. Don't cut back until spring when you see what has died. Climbers you can detach from the trellis and lie close to the ground and mulch. I tend to grow roses from cuttings from friends that I know will be hardy locally, and even as a relatively inexperienced rose grower I've been reasonably successful. Unfortunately, many of the roses I've seen at big box stores aren't hardy for this area, so enjoy their blooms this year and hope for another mild winter, preferably with good snow cover. I'm biased in favor of roses that I don't have to fuss over too much, so I don't grow hybrid teas and research whether the rose is prone to blackspot or other deseases before I buy them. Anecdotally, sprinkling alfalfa meal or corn meal under the plant is supposed to reduce blackspot, but I've never had enough of a problem to try it. Many of my roses are early once bloomers because they are done blooming before the J beetles arrive. The ones that aren't I've planted in an area that isn't good J beetle territory - a clearing surrounded by much woodland. I'll be spreading Milky Spore desease on the small amount of lawn there as I've had success with that reducing the J beetle population at a previous house/garden. I don't have any neighbors with lawns within J beetle flying distance, and I've heard that this is only successful if all the nearby area is milky spored. Another problem is rose chafers, which are insects about the size of J beetles, but longer, slimmer, and tanner. They emerge a bit earlier than J beetles and chew on the blooms. I don't know of any organic way to prevent them other than hand picking. They are common if you are near fallow agricultural land, which surrounds my current house. I don't have problems with them in the wooded location. I hope this is helpful, and if you want cuttings or have other specific questions, I'll check back here (though maybe not right away as work is busy right now.)

If you think you have a problem that requires a systemic insecticide, better to buy a product with label instructions for applying it....like the Bonide you mention. Is your goal insect control (which one), fertilizer? We don't know what you wish to accomplish. The 2 in 1 product shown on their website is imidacloprid and granular fertilizer, Bayer states it is not for use in containers. A granular type fertlizer would not be the same as the time release osmocote pellets that release small amounts of product over weeks. I use a water soluable fertilizer product for container plants, rarely mixing to the full strength of label directions, I haven't found it necessary. Here is a link that might be useful: Bayer - questions/answers/product label