Hey Guys :) I won't say I have never gotten stuck with the horses, but I have never had to dig them out. I will admit occasionally I have had to get off and then put it in gear and push! A bit foolish perhaps but... ;) My next door neighbor got foreclosed and is gone, so I have taken to clearing out the next guy down who I have been getting to know. He gave me a $50 gift card at the local supermarket which is appreciated. I told him I want him and his wife to come for dinner and I'll plan on spending it on some good steak and seafood and we'll have barbecued surf and turf. I'll admit I wouldn't mind an occasional donation from others for gas and for upgrades (tires, for example, there are holes in the sidewalls on the 854, and chains would make things easier) Mostly I concentrate on the side walks - hardly anyone keeps them clear and I real feel for anyone on foot. SOmetimes I go all the way around the block. I use the smaller 8 HP 1964 854 for the plowing (no chains but those narrow snow-style turf tires are impressive)and the 12 HP Hydro 1969 Charger for the blowing. I do get a lot of fun out of it!

In my opinion, you are heading down the highway to hell on this one because your priorities are all wrong. You don't buy, modify and use some cheapo LT to try and bush hog a piece of property that is strewn with hazards. Go rent a skid steer loader with a tooth bar on the bucket and clean up all the rocks and other junk that is on this property. Even if you don't haul the stuff off site, you can heap it up in one spot for the time being. If stumps are an issue, then rent a stump grinder and deal with them. The only obstacle/obstruction left on the property should be live trees. The rest of the ground should be clean and level even if you don't want to have an actual lawn right now. The skid steer loader can shave off high spots and carry the dirt to fill in the low spots. If you don't know how to operate one, then hire a pro. Once you achieve the clean-up and levelling, then any LT will maintain it without fear of destroying itself or launching a chunk of something into the air that might hit a passerby. With your back condition, why would you even think that some LT with 12" rear rims is going to navigate smoothly over that terrain?

If you just drag the occasional cross tie you can simply drag it behind the X 500. But if you are planning to move a bunch of them, and would prefer not to create a logging trail effect from your efforts, you might want to explore the idea of using a two wheeled, pneumatic tired dolly for the rear end of the cross tie with a hitch plate/tongue plate on the front end to link to the tractor draw bar. Both the rear dolly and the hitch plate would be configured to fit the dimensional profile of the cross tie and securing each to the tie is done using one or two 8" C-clamps to secure them to the tie. Advantages of using a dolly and hitch plate are: Rolling pneumatic tires do little damage compared to simple dragging (skidding). With the dolly and hitch plate you can back up with the tie to facilitate tight turns or to back it into place near where it will reside permanently. This idea came to mind when I remembered a friend of mine who made a heavy duty version to transport up to 30 foot steel I-beams as a towed unit behind his 1-ton service truck.

This post got started when a member responded to a previous post of mine and she told me of her frustrations with her tractor and how her son has had to keep it running on the small farm they own, with much doctoring. She has a 2013 Husqvarna YT46LS with a Kawasaki 600 and Tuff Torq K46, 1,300 hrs on it. No complaints with the motor or transaxle. Her complaints were in how flimsy the construction has always been, the parts that are superseded that are supposed to fit but don’t, and very little confidence in the manufacturer in general. To top the cake in troubles and fixes, she described in detail how after the 5th starter that didn't work, how it would get stuck in the down position was finally remedied by a piece of metal from a coke can, needless to say, they are both done with the little tractor. I was eventually asked for an opinion on what tractor she should be looking at because she was done with this one and didn’t want all the constant little problems. She just wanted a little tractor that would work reliably and operate as if someone had cared about what they built. This is the eternal quest for the holy grail of lawn tractors that the forums are full of. I started to look at the current market and realized how bad it was and seems to be getting worse. Her goal was to keep around a 46" mowing deck size so that is what I based my search and observations on, and I thought others here might be able to benefit also. So the question, I'm in the market for a lawn tractor, what should I buy? This is my response to her, The 2013 YT46LS has the Tuff Torq K46 Transaxle and the Kawasaki FR600V series engine. The Kawasaki FR600V did have a pull start option or conversion. The Tuff Torq K46 is in the residential class and not rated for much more than mowing grass on relatively flat ground, yet it still works with all the things you have described to me that you use your tractor for. You really did get your moneys worth out of it from my point of view. The Kawasaki engine is the best part of that tractor in my opinion and I would give weight in that direction on your next tractor. The question of recommend is difficult without knowing what goes into the answer because a lot comes down to expectations, but I'll give it a try. My answer is at the bottom if you want to skip the details. In the lawn and Garden category according to OPEI (Outdoor Power Equipment Institute) there are only two official categories of residential tractors. Lawn Tractor or LT: "Rear-Engine Riding Mowers and Front-Engine Lawn Tractors are self-propelled riding vehicles generally designed for mowing lawns. Nearly 50% of rear-engine riding mowers are used for lawns 1/2 to 1 acre in size, while lawn tractors are generally used for areas larger than one acre. Although both may offer options such as sweeper or snow thrower attachments, they are not powerful enough to pull a plow." Garden Tractor or GT: "Garden Tractors are designed to supply sufficient power for home lawn, garden and yard attachments: moldboard plows, tillers, cultivators, snow throwers, sweepers, leaf mulchers, etc. Fifty percent of garden tractors are used for areas larger than two acres" Every other category are produced by the manufacturer as sales aids and brand garnish, but not an actual class of tractor and all that applies. One of my favorite examples are the LGT or "Light Garden Tractor". This would seem like you are getting a Garden Tractor and what that implies. You are not. They will lack something in one of the three categories for "ground engagement work" such as a sufficient Engine (lots of HP), a sufficient chassis (possibly a "C" channel or welded chassis) but give the Tuff Torq K46 transaxle (the K46 is not designed for ground engagement work). It's clever but all advertising. The other one that is common is the YT or Yard Tractor. This is to up-sell a lawn tractor as more rugged than just mowing lawns but not quite capable of GT work. If we look at your current tractor (YT46LS) you got an upgrade in the motor with a very durable Kawasaki motor and a "C" channel chassis that is proven strong, but you have a Tuff Torq K46 transaxle. It's clever of the manufacturers and they like to confuse the purchase with things that don't really matter. This is why I keep things grounded with the fact that there are only 2 classes of tractors according to the industry standard in North America, the Lawn Tractor and the Garden Tractor, and what is reasonable to expect from them and why. The current market has become worse than when you last purchased with fewer real choices and sales around building disposable flimsy machines. I will start at our typical box store, because they offer the cheapest prices and most availability usually, with 5 actual brands of lawn tractors, and regardless of advertising, I haven't found one box store that offers an actual, qualified Garden Tractor (they may claim it, but only Dealers offer true GT's). This means when you go to the box store, you should know it's a lawn tractor you are looking at. Knowing this should simplify your purchase to things like deck size and premium motors such as a Kawasaki versus Briggs and Stratton or Kohler, or your favorite color. I can only give MSRP, but here we go, 1) Craftsman T140 MSRP $1,699.00. 18.5hp Briggs and Stratton motor, MTD's standard "C" channel chassis, 46" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K46 Transaxle. 2) Husqvarna YTH22V46 MSRP $1,899.99. 22HP Briggs and Stratton motor, Has the same "C" channel chassis you have right now, 46" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K46 transaxle. (In 8 years, nothing has really changed) 3) John Deere E150 MSRP $1,379. 22HP John Deere Branded motor (possible Briggs?) "C" channel chassis, 48" mowing deck (they are not offering 46" anymore), Tuff Torq K46 transaxle. (Box store Deere is a real Deere just fewer selections than at a Dealer). 4) Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro LT MSRP $2,099. 22 HP Kohler 7000 motor, standard MTD "C" channel chassis, 46" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K58 transaxle- this is a sizable upgrade at the top of the residential class, but "ground engagement' qualified starts at K62, K66, K72, or K92 according to Tuff Torq. 5) Troy Built Super Bronco XP 46 MSRP $2,099. 22HP Kohler 7000 motor, standard MTD "C" channel chassis, 46" mowing deck, Tuff Torq TL-200 transaxle (less than your current K46! a lessor transaxle than the K46). The residential class of Tuff Torq starts at TL-200, K46, K57, K58 and in that order. 6) Poulan Pro seems to only sell 42" decks for 2021. (they are Husqvarna anyway, not a contender in this class) Now for the brands with actual Dealers and service for tractors verses zero turns. 1) Husqvarna, they have models only available at the Dealer, the brand code will be a "D" as in GT48DXLS verses GT48XLS. 2) Cub Cadet/Yanmar Dealers. 3) Simplicity Tractors. (Snapper is the Simplicity Regent?) 4) John Deere (if it's at the box store you can buy direct from the Dealer). 5) Kubota lawn and Garden tractors. Husqvarna quickly, I don't trust them and I'm willing to show through there own words and adverts to include vendor deception and warranty deception with the now close to 30GB of data on them I have, but when requested for specific purposes. I would only recommend them to the project builder that wants to build a great GT out of a cheap package like I did, knowing they won't have a warranty up front, but that's the only way. Cub Cadet, is an MTD brand like Craftsman, troy Built, and some store brands, but Cub Cadet is the premium line. They offer one model of actual Garden Tractor with the Hydro Gear BDU-10 transaxle that is very good, and very maintainable, the XT3 is only available from a Dealer. If you have a Dealer in your area I recommend looking at the difference between the XT2 and XT3 for your needs. My question with them will be in how long parts are supported. I believe (not fact) that parts are supported longer than any brand at a box store but not as long as the top 3 brands of lawn and garden tractors. XT3 GSX MSRP$5,599. 25HP Kohler Command series (the command series has a very good reputation like Kawasaki), 54" mowing deck? Fully welded chassis, a real bargain in the Garden Tractor class. The BDU-10 has a rear axle that rivals the Tuff Torq K72 at 30MM or 1 and 1/4" in diameter axles and differential lock for traction under a load- drive shaft driven with belts. That brings me to the top of the chain in every way. These Dealers give the specs to safely use ground engagement implements on their GT's, and only these three brands, that's a big deal, and honest in my opinion. John Deere. I can get parts manuals and parts for tractors that are 30 years old +. They are more expensive, but there is peace of mind in owning a Deere when they expect you to maintain them for decades in some models and not just throw them away. John Deere customers are usually very satisfied with there product. John Deere is the only one I know that has a special Tuff Torq K46 HD? that is maintainable, just for them ordered specific from Tuff Torq with drain bolts. Since you have a farm and want actual reliable service from your tractor, in John Deere I recommend their X series, at minimum the X300 but the X500 is just truly a well built tractor that your son will only have to change the oil in for years, a solid machine. The X330 MSRP $3,599. 22HP Deere brand motor, shares the same fully welded chassis that the X500 GT has (very strong), 48" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K46 (I think this is the weak point) but so much more. The X570 MSRP$ 6,399. 24HP water cooled? Kawasaki FS730V (I have the air cooled version of this, great motor), fully welded chassis, 48" mowing deck, Tuff Torq K72 transaxle with hydraulic accessory ports for ground engagement implements (light). The X570 is a true Garden Tractor. If Snapper comes up, it's revived by Simplicity see Simplicity. Simplicity Regent Lawn Tractor MSRP$2,949. 48" mowing deck, Hybrid "C" channel Pan chassis (same as the Snapper), 25HP Briggs Pro Series motor, Tuff Torq K46 transaxle. Simplicity Broadmore Lawn Tractor with perks MSRP$5,249. 48" mowing deck, Heavy welded hybrid channel chassis, 25HP Briggs, Tuff Torq K62 transaxle (Tuff Torq commercial series ground engagement qualified). Simplicity customers are also like Deere customers very satisfied and some are fanatical. Well built machines/service/parts are supported for decades. Kubota. I'm told that Kubota builds there lawn tractors for their farm/ heavy equipment customers. Kubota T2290KWT-48 MSRP $5,249. or the GR2020G Garden Tractor MSRP$8,856. People have put thousands of hours on these over decades. Very nice, comfortable, well built machines. The support provided to the customers of Simplicity, John Deere, and Kubota are first class in every way. If the sticker is high, look used. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a GT from Kubota, Deere, or Simplicity that was 10 years old, I would hesitate to buy new from the non premium brands knowing the product is sold in different colors but is the same product across brands and without much actual warranty backing, especially Husqvarna. All this to get to my advice, You need your tractor more than the average person like myself. I would start at the top. Make appointments with your local John Deere Dealer and try the X5 first, then the X3. Make an appointment with your local Kubota Dealer and try the GR2020G with diesel without diesel, then the T2290KWT. Make an appointment with your local Simplicity Dealer and try the Conquest GT, then the Broadmore, then the Regent. If you have a local Cub Cadet Yanmar Dealer try the XT3 GSX then an XT2. These premium Dealers will have models you can actually operate on their grounds, get a feel for how sturdy and confident they are. How easy or difficult they actually are. They will most likely be all too happy and with pride show you there service and parts departments just like a quality car Dealer. After you experience quality and get a feel for it, then go to the box store and at least sit on one, open the hood, if they allow you to push it, do this too. I'm willing to bet if you do this, actually do this, the sticker on the premium brands won't hurt so much and it will be very clear what you want by aligning your expectation outside of advertisements and cheap prices. I believe that whatever you choose after all this and a fine dinner (remember to treat yourself) you will be happy with it. Feel free to ask me for some proof if you need it in this process, you aren't buying a tractor for three years then throwing it away, but the stores are more than willing to sell you a tractor that needs a Coke can to keep running. GT