Adding a seal should be less if the old engine is in good shape related to cylinder wear, compression, crank bushing and etc.. I still feel the electronic kit should have solved your problem w/o an RPM problem. Other points: 1. If the installer was well at the time, did he get all installed/adjusted properly and you had good RPM? 2. Have you noticed oil on the points in the past? Have you had any kick-back or sheared flywheel keys? 3. I need help! Are the points still used as a switch/signal with the electronics (I did my last about 1990)? The last kit at this site http://www.jackssmallengines.com/ignition_b.cfm verifies the points and condenser serves no purpose with the electronic ignition (as I thought I remembered). Therefore, I would make sure the key-way is not damages (flywheel tight to specs) and the air gap is .010 (guessing w/o checking or an index card thickness from the flywheel. 4. There could be a fuel restriction or fuel adjustment issue if the engine had RPM initially. 5. Please let us know how the engine ran initially after the electronics was added. If it sat for any time, âÂÂHistoryâÂÂ! loger

And to add to the above after checking spark- LOOSEN the gas cap for a few seconds and then see if it starts. A clogged vent can cause a vacuum to build up and restrict fuel flow to nothing. A restricted fuel filter could allow the carb to "slowly" run out of gas until the engine dies. Wait a few minutes while the carb SLOWLY refills and it's good for a bit more. To check if a fuel issue- Remove the air cleaner and dribble 2-3 teaspoons worth of gas in the carb. IF the engine fires, it's fuel.

Errol, I have two 446777 engines. They are both labeled 26hp! The exhaust valve is the lower valve on both cylinders. It is the closest valve to the exhaust pipe connection. It is the one with the steel pushrod (smaller diameter). Adjust both valves to .005 on cold engine. At first hearing, it sounds like your problem is in the carb, because there are two 'circuits' in the carb. One is for high speed and the other is for idle. It sounds to me like your idle circuit may not be flowing properly.

There are several things here. First, an engine does not seize from nearly changing the oil, something is being left out. The IPL for the engine shows a Slinger which would be responsible for the bulk of the lubrication even though the engine has an oil filter and oil pump. Also, just recently, a 48" Simplicity hydrostatic drive Lawn Tractor with a B&S 22 hp V Twin engine was given away because the "engine was seized". The person receiving the tractor sold it for $50 also thinking the engine was seized. This second person is a very experienced tech. Turned out the starter gear was jammed in the ring gear. I had one that was "seized". Flywheel magnets had come loose locking the FLYWHEEL. But to the OP's original question, yes, the 33 series engine will replace the 31 with no problem EXCEPT the charging system MAY have to be switched which they will interchange BUT, as said previously, given your aversion to removing the flywheel, it is questionable whether you should undertake any of the switch. Too bad you don't live close, I have an abundance of good used and rebuilt engines in the range. Walt Conner