That 425 sounds real nice. I think the best approach is to start checking out what dealers close to you have in the back row. be it a tractor complete or even extra decks. Get their opinions. Look on the Craigslist/ EBAY , estate sales etc. The older 400 series were built like tanks, but lots of them had no mulching. Service decks are available new- but pricey once you add it to a machine you just had to buy too. Maybe a Toro XI with a 52" recycler.

I have a cub cadet 7205 22 hp compact tractor with front end loader, bush hog and finished mower. I Just don't need it anymore. I've cleaned out all the areas I want and lifted all the dirt and rock I need. I will only mow maybe 4-5 acres at the most. I have a big incline that my house sits near the top on. Then everything else is basically flat with some rough areas. I want a garden mower that can go on rough surfaces, sideways on the incline (can't do with my tractor now, only up and down) with ease of maintenance and where I can change attachments by myself for gardening. My research: The JD X500 series is to prices I think and the attachments are $$. It is not rated for ground engaging work. Turn radius 16-18, transaxel K46 kawaski engine, not owner maintenance friendly. Simplicy easier than JD for R&R, floating deck, good for lumpy lawn, turn radius 14", deck easy to take off, everything made in USA including tires. Regent 18/38 kohler engine 18HP, cuts at 3"-3 1/2", controls well, maintenance friendly pulls well, bumpy ride (lower air in tires and rides better) , craftsman28846, 26HP Kohler, cuts1.5-4", good on rough uneven surface, made in usa, harder to edge, somewhat hard to change attachments-takes muscle,hydrostatic, oil & greasing easy to do. I am looking for a 54" (if not close to it)sturdy tractor that can take rough surface and sideways on a hill for no more than $3,000 so I can buy some attachments. Comments

Good specs, good price on the Dixons. So I went to the manufacturer's website to download a Manual. Well, their manual search function did not recognize the model number, so no manual for me. I did note on a page of FAQs their recommendation: "Clean with compressed air whenever possible. Wash with water only when absolutely necessary. Water cannot be completely removed from the mower and will cause rust and corrosion in concealed areas of the mower. Water can also get into the wire and plug-ins which may short out those electrical connections. If water is used, use compressed air or a leaf blower to dry the unit." A lot of tractors have "wash-out ports" where a hose is attached to clean it, including the Dixon! I found this quite interesting.

So much information is missing from your post, I'm afraid. - what year is this tractor? - did you own it since new? - how many hours are showing on the clock? - is the hourmeter still working? - how METICULOUS were you in maintaining this tractor? Your DH may want a larger deck but is a 72" deck practical, considering the terrain? The larger the width of the deck, the more prone it is to scalping off any high spots it encounters. Most decks are of the "full-floating" type which means they have gauge wheels on them that contact the ground all the time and those wheels are what keep the deck off the ground at a preset height. If one of those wheels drops into a low spot, then the deck also drops on that corner or side. The closer the cut, the more critical this becomes on uneven ground. This fact also makes it hard to get a really nice even cut with a wide deck. Whether to rebuild or not rebuild is a decision that only the two of you can make. Right now, your 2072 is worth next to nothing. It's a parts tractor that might bring you a couple hundred dollars. The questions I posed at the beginning of my post will help you decide the best course of action. If you and your DH are the type of people who buy tractors and never read the Operator's Manual and never follow the recommended service procedures, then your tractor may not be worth putting an engine into it because the hydro may be the very next item to fail. If you've racked up more than 3000 hours on the clock, then once again, replacing the engine might not prove to be a wise move. This is no different than deciding whether to put an engine in the family car or pick-up truck. How old is the vehicle, how many miles on the odometer, did we look after it well, has it seen a hard life or an easy one, what's its overall condition like and so on? The engine IS the most expensive item but the hydro follows close behind at about half the cost. Then there is the issue of the existing mowing deck. Is it beat to death? Is it rusting out? A new deck can easily cost a $1000.00 or more. I've given you a link for an engine source. Personally, I would repower the tractor with the Honda instead of the Kohler. As far as ZTR's are concerned, they have two things going for them. Several are available with a 72" deck and they have the capability of travelling at a higher ground speed than most conventional garden tractors. However....... if your property has really rough ground, then you might not be able to put up with driving one that fast and if so, then there goes the major edge of a ZTR on properties with large, wide open spaces. The third thing that ZTR's have going for them is their ability to quickly maneuver around obstructions and turn around in their own space. From what I can gather, those factors don't apply to your property. As good as ZTR's are at cutting grass, you won't be pulling a single-furrow turning plow, discs, harrows and some other ground-engaging tools that require high ground clearance and an implement hitch on the rear. In other words, ZTR's are not as versatile as a garden tractor is. Lastly, we come to that nasty thing called "budget" and everyone has one. For sure, you need a bona fide garden tractor for your property or you need a commercial quality ZTR in order to get longevity. Currently, all the manufacturers are jumping on the ZTR bandwagon due to customer demand for affordable models. The PROBLEM is this. Affordable units are constructed with parts that cost less to manufacture and therefore, don't last very long before needing replacement. This is really important in a ZTR because they use TWO hydraulic pumps and TWO hydraulic drive motors whereas a garden tractor has one of each. As such, a low-end ZTR will become instant junk when one of the motors or pumps fail because more often than not, they are connected to a common oil reservoir. That means, shrapnel from a badly damaged motor or pump can get circulated into the rest of the system, depending upon how the system is designed and filtered. Realistically, I think your budget should be at least six grand. Frankly, Cub Cadet is a brand that no longer impresses me. It is made by MTD and they have never impressed me as a manufacturer. In my opinion, you would be better served by your local Deere dealer and an X series. Another choice would be an Ingersoll dealer if you could find one close to you. Go to http://www.ingersolltractors.com and use their dealer locater tool. This may be a brand that you have not heard of but originally it was developed by J. I. Case before they sold it. The tractors produced today still have all the quality and ruggedness that Case engineered into them under their stewardship and Ingersoll has only made them better since acquiring the line. Think it over and let us know what you finally decide to do. Here is a link that might be useful: Engine