For folks with fairly advanced skill levels. A modern "el cheapo" Mikuni pulse vacuum pump could be adapted to to this engine. If it were myself wanting to adapt a Mikuni pulse vac pump, I would remove the OEM pump from the side of the engine and literally "gut" that pump of its mechanical linkage parts and remove the check valves and diaphragm. Then you would need to plug or cap off one of the 2 hose ports so that the fitting remaining is the closest one to your Mikuni pump. By gutting the OEM Magnum pump, you establish a source of crankcase pulse/vacuum that will operate the Mikuni pump when you connect a hose from the one remaining hose nipple of the OEM pump to the vacuum nipple on the Mikuni pump. Doing it this way makes it easy to provide the needed source for pulse/vacuum without drilling and tapping another place on the engine. Of course, if you can find a replacement mechanical pump, that would be easy enough to do instead of the alternative Mikuni application option.

Shucks, I accidentally hit submit . .................................................... Are you quite certain that the gas you are now discovering, was not already in the oil from before you undertook this rebuild? What may be damaged depends on how long the engine "ran" with contaminated and diluted oil. If the engine had been running with gas in the oil before the fuel pump work, I would expect the exhaust would have had a definite blue or blue-white color "smoke" in it. In which case, the most likely components to suffer damage would be the crankshaft rod journal and connecting rod, the piston and cylinder walls might have sustained some "scoring" or galling, but usually, the piston and cylinder of a 4 stroke engine, are "spared" in cases of gasoline contaminated oil in the crankcase. It usually requires that these engines be "run without any oil" before the piston and cylinder walls see damage (of course by that time, the crank and rod is usually "trashed" as well). Consider a 2 stroke engine escapes damage to the piston and cylinder with as little as 1 part oil to 50 parts gasoline. Also consider the the same amount of oil is sufficient to lube the crank main and rod journals in a 2 stroke engine, but ONLY DUE TO the 2 stroke design using ball or roller bearings in those 2 places. Plain bearings in the typical 4 stroke OPE engine will NOT survive long if run with diluted oil. If all the time this engine has actually run with gas in the oil, amounts to a mere 20 to 30 seconds, I believe all you have "suffered" is a solvent washing of the interior surfaces of the engine. Post engine numbers and let's see if we can find some illustrations of that carb. Maybe then we can retrace your steps during reassembly of the pump.

***"When the dealer has a part like an ignitor in stock that indicates that it fails often enough to earn an inventory investment by the dealer."*** That statement is so true. Now I'll give you a look at another "truism" that applies to the shop I work for. Large company fleet of OTR trucks, trailers, and forklifts. We have our own "parts department" with a sometimes "dubious" inventory assortment. Our common saying amongst the mechanics is that if you go to the parts room and find a plentiful supply of any item, that item DOES NOT FIT anything in our fleet.....because if it fit something in the fleet.......it would be out of stock instead. Of course this is all aimed at our "parts men" who have been known to order something incorrectly. :^)

If the shaft is moving more than .010 then the shaft and or carb body is bad. The Intek is a completely diff eng. I think you may have rocker cover contact at the inner hood and the exh port is on the RH side of the engine instead of the LH side of the engine. Meaning, you will have to make a exh pipe or muffler system. I don't think an Intek would be a easy swap. You need the L Head engine. They made them up to a 13hp I think. JD used the 13 on the GX/SX85 rear engine riders. The best swap would be to put in a Kawasaki FB460V-AS/BS/ or CS00 series of engines a 12.5 hp L-Head. JD had a kit to install them on the 111 frame and produced this setup as the 112L, 111 with the Kawi installed at the factory. Deere had a RePower Kit, but I am not sure it is still available? This engine was used on the 111, 112L, RX95, 160, and 165. I also have seen them on some of the small Scag Commercial walk mowers. This engine will bolt up and use the orig muffler. You will have to do some wiring changes, I can't remember if the throttle cable would have to be changed out as well.