Check the throttle shaft on the carb. It should not be sloppy up and down. Check the arm where the adjustment screw and spring is. This was the biggest problem with those carbs. It sucks air at idle and surges.

I checked the throttle shaft, and there is a little slop. I guess you knew what I meant by "idle at full throttle" which, after I thought about it, makes about as much sense as "sitting while standing up." The mower is in really good shape, but it seems like the Briggs engine wasn't quite as durable as the tractor. I'll do a compression test sometime this week to get a better idea, but I'm thinking a new engine might be worthwhile for this tractor. Tulsa Engine Warehouse has a 12.5hp Intek scratch-n-dent on sale for $399. That one has a 1" x 3 5/32 shaft. Not sure what it has now. Anyone have an idea before I get out there with a micrometer and tape measure? They also have a 16hp Vanguard for $599 which would probably be a better choice, but that takes this well beyond the "cheap tractor project" budget.

What do you think? Is she worth a $399 re-power or just a $39 new carb?

{{gwi:358347}}

If the shaft is moving more than .010 then the shaft and or carb body is bad. The Intek is a completely diff eng. I think you may have rocker cover contact at the inner hood and the exh port is on the RH side of the engine instead of the LH side of the engine. Meaning, you will have to make a exh pipe or muffler system. I don't think an Intek would be a easy swap. You need the L Head engine. They made them up to a 13hp I think. JD used the 13 on the GX/SX85 rear engine riders.

The best swap would be to put in a Kawasaki FB460V-AS/BS/ or CS00 series of engines a 12.5 hp L-Head. JD had a kit to install them on the 111 frame and produced this setup as the 112L, 111 with the Kawi installed at the factory. Deere had a RePower Kit, but I am not sure it is still available?

This engine was used on the 111, 112L, RX95, 160, and 165. I also have seen them on some of the small Scag Commercial walk mowers. This engine will bolt up and use the orig muffler. You will have to do some wiring changes, I can't remember if the throttle cable would have to be changed out as well.

The 111 was part of JDs lawn tractor line. It and the 108 came out in 1979. JD started offering the hydrostatic versions of the 111 in 1982 (btw, it's an Eaton transmission, the 5 speed gear models were Peerless trannies). Over the years JD improved the line by adding electric pto clutch in 1980; offered hydrostatic versions of the 111 in 1982; relocated the fuel tank from under the hood to under the fender deck, also in 1982; introduced a 16 hp twin cylinder Briggs model - 116 in 1982; and the 12.5 hp single cylinder Kawasaki 112L in 1985 (the 111s only had the 5 speed gear models that year). The line was made from 1979 through 1985. Your 111H is either a '82, 83 or 84 model. I've seen the 111s repowered with 12, 12.5, 13 and 14 hp Briggs engines and seen one with a 12.5 hp Kohler engine. You can get either a snow thrower or a snow blade for the series. Good lawn tractors.

BTW, I have the service manual for this tractor. It's an original copy enclosed in another binder (the original binder bit the dust). If you're interested, send me an email at terryreed2@aol.com.

Thanks for the info, guys. After speaking to a Briggs rep, it's pretty evident an OHV setup is out of the question. Too bad. It does actually run right now, just not like it should. I think I'm leaning toward rebuilding the engine it has now. Do this engine have a replacable cylinder liner? I haven't taken it apart yet. I was pretty shocked at the price of a new carb from Briggs: $130. I think I'll need to shop around a little.

But if I were to entertain the engine swap idea, what about this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330189736859&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us

Would the Briggs muffler fit the Kawi motor? Is a Kawi muffler still available? This one doesn't have one.

Treed, how much do you want for the service manual?

Send me an email at terryreed2@aol.com and we can discussed that off line.

As for the availability of parts, go here:

https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.publicservlets.HomeUnsigned

You can register (it's free) and you can go to the parts catalog, find the part, check the price and your dealer's inventory for the part you need.

The orig engine is a Cool Bore (alum bore). Yes I would think that engine would fit. But, you will need the Kawi pipe, muffler was the same for both engines. You also will need the muffler bracket, voltage regulator, and maybe the shrould listed on Mikes ebay site. You will also need or make a wiring harness adaptor to wire in the Kawi to the orig 111 harness. Throttle cable looks to be the same for both engines.

1 AM101056 pipe
1 M83156 gasket

The easy part will be doing the engine swap. The hardest part will be the rewire. They are very diff, if you have limited elect experience, and with out the premade harness. I forgot to check on the repower kit today. I will try to remember tomorrow.

You could offer Mike a lower amount for the engine to save some money, because you will need to purchase a few more odds and ends to complete the swap.

I have the same fuel pump problem on my 111h. I can't find a replacement as JD has discontinued them it seems. I heard that there may be rebuild kits for them but the guts in mine look pretty good. Could it be a vacuum problem? If so, how can I test to see if there is good vac?

Any direction to where I could find or fix this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much.

Rick in CO

There is a plastic, round, fuel pump available. I needed one for an engine swap, where the fuel tank was at the rear of the tractor, and the carb inlet was higher than the outlet of the tank.
The owner furnished me with a black plastic, round, fuel pump, with three tubes on it. Two tubes are on the right side, as you look at it, and one is on the bottom. The top right tube is the fuel inlet, the lower right tube is the vacuum conection to the Dip-stick tube, and the one at the 7 o'clock poition is the tube to the carb.
I bought a right angle brass fuel line fitting, with a threaded end on one side, and a tube where you hook up the hose from the fuel pump. I then drilled a hole high up on the dip-stick tube and screwed the threaded end into it. This set-up gives the pulsing action that makes the fuel pump work! The pump has mounting tabs on it, to fasten it to anything nearby