the ohv Briggs intek pro has a cast iron sleeve that will take more abuse than the aluminum bore models. The carburetor is easier to service than the Honda carburetor. This engine weighs about 5 pounds more than the Honda. Primer equipped engine usually start with 2 - 3 pulls - until you learn best primer operation. If the engine is equipped with an oil filter, be aware, the engine has filtered oil and splash lubrication. This engine has about 190 CC. The Honda is a great 1 pull starter. The cylinder is aluminum bore. The carburetor is more difficult to remove than the Briggs. This engine has 160 CC.

Hmmm.... I just replaced that belt on my LT155. What a joy (not) that was. Are you positive that the belt is routed correctly, and that all the tension springs are back where they belong? With the parking brake off, the belt is pretty tight on my tractor. I would get underneath and double check that everything is where it should be. And just because the belt is the right one, double check that, too--I got a bad timing belt for my Freedom 42 cutting deck once--it had a few teeth that weren't right and would cause the whole belt to jump a few teeth every rotatation--resulting in the clash of metal under my mower deck--very frustrating until I figured out what was wrong. I'm guessing that either the dealer gave you the wrong belt, the belt is mislableled, or some part of the pulley system isn't properly reassembled....... Let us know how you make out. These things can be frustrating!!!!

Well, I'm not a John Deere expert, but I will be willing to bet that the EPA has mandated (or suggested) that chokes be designed so they CAN NOT remain in the choke position unless held there by the operator in order to prevent accidental "run with choke on" events. If I'm wrong I will soon be set straight. Having said that, I will also opine that the "choke" (or some other enrichening device)will likely become an electrically operated component at some point in the future (as did fuel cutoff solenoids). I believe this would happen because, cables per se, can become stiff over time which would defeat the intended "pull off" of the choke by spring tension. As we have seen, what EPA wants, EPA gets.

In this case the elect. fuel shut-off solenoid (item 1) in in place of and older design carb. that just has a bolt to hold the float bowl on. Just remove the wire and using a wrench on the hex portion of the solenoid. This solenoid will click and open when you turn the key to the on position moving the plunger that mowie talked about to let fuel into the carb. you can test this by simply removing it ground it out against the carb. (with the power wire connected)(or you can use a battery charger with the + connected to the elect. hook-up and the - grounded against the body of the solonoid) and turn the switch to the on position. you should see the plunger actuate out when power is supplied (12V) and retract when power (12Vs is removed) Other than that spraying the passages and seeing if float works is the same as older design carb. remember their will be two gaskets when you remove the float bowl, 1 on the solenoid to seal it against the carb. bowl(usually a crush type gasket that can be reused if it didn't get torn up during removal, 2 o-ring at the top of the fuel bowl which usually sticks to the carb. housing and can be reused if it didn't get damaged during removal. you want the o-ring on the carb. housing for installation and not on the bowl cause the bowl slips over the o-ring and will most likely get pinched if put inside the bowl when installing or have it on the carb. housing to alow the bowl to slip over the o-ring for a good seal job, but you still have to look and see if it's pinched out while tighen the solenoid. as with all o-ring installations you need some type of lubricant to ensure you don't pinch the o-ring when installing it, most use small amount of vasoline jelly. If you have pinched it fuel will leak when the float fills the bowl up. To prevent pinching of the o-ring install the bowl and hold it up against the carb while screwing the solenoid on hand tight, now look around the bowl where it meets the carb housing for the o-ring sticking out, if you don't see no protrusion the tighten the solenoid using a wrench on the hex part of the solenoid. Tighten as tight as it was coming off trying not to over tighten it so you don't smash the crush gasket on the solenoid creating leak. most people with general knowledge and do this, if you have fuel leak try to see if the fuel is coming from the bottom or the top of the fuel bowl? remove the bowl inspect the gaskets and try to reseal it again, if it still leaks then you will have to take it to a mechanic which IMO will cost you no more that taking in as long as you didn't lose or damage parts during the trial maintenance repair. kinda of long sorry.