Exactly blondeboy. I wanted something I can easily take down and store away for summer. Since that's the spot where the bunnie's run goes in the spring. Plus when I need more ventilation come spring, all I have to do is lift one side and attach it under the "caps". Altho eventually I may want a more permanent one. But that one would be a "walk-in" one. In that case, I will spend the $50 or so. But since that one was just for my winter sowing purposes..the $12-$15 (Dropcloth $7 from Walmart and 4 umbrellas which were techincally $1.29 each) I spent was more suitable. I've only had one problem with it so far, but that was my fault entirely. I had only tucked the end parts under the roasting pans. So when the wind came thru here the other night, the ends were promptly picked up. But the rest it totally fine. And I have since fixed my boo-boo. Thank you for all the warm comments and compliments! Kim

The specs would be the same as standard hoophouses, only one a mini-scale. I will probably be constructing it next weekend. Here is what my plans are: Interior house: 3/4" PVC cut down 2 2.5 feet lengths, and a 4 foot length, connected with elbow (1/2 elbows, cemented INSIDE the 3/4" PVC) for the supports 4 foot long 1x2's will be connected to the bottom of the PVC on the sides, but the PVC will not be in the ground at all, just resting on the surface. (allowing easier access to the plants!) The hoophouse plastic will be connected in 4 foot sections half hoophouses, that meet in the middle and connected with large binder clamps). The plastic on the sides will be stapled to the 1x2 at the bottom of the sides, and the end of each half-hoophouse will be clamped closed at night, and opened in the day, according to the temp and sunlight forecast. Exterior hoophouse: (this is where it gets trickier) 3 foot rebar driven into the ground every 2 feet, on both sides. (driven into the ground 2 feet, leaving 1 foot exposed, for the PVC to go over). I figure to use 3/4 PVC for this as well, and just bend a 10 foot length, from one side of the rebar to the other. Again, they will be made into "half-hoophouses" 4 feet long. The end PVCs of each 4 foot half-hoophouse will be connected to the plastic with binder clamps. These will be secured to ensure the plastic fits tightly over the PVC ribs. The middle area of the half-hoophouses will be connected together (somehow...suggestions are welcomed). One final piece, is to connect the ribs to themselves, with a 1x2 on the end, and in the middle, to keep the shape intact, when removed. This connection can be made at the bottom of the end of the mini-hoophouse, but it will be made at the top of the interior hoophouse for the open end of the half-hoophouse, to allow the interior house to be connected together. (this is the part that is the most complicated, as I see it) The ends will again be gathered together and clamped closed, and opened as necessary according to the forecast. Entry into the hoophouse for watering, harvesting, etc. will be trickier than a full hoophouse. First, half of the outer hoophouse will be removed (raised up off the rebar and set aside.) The interior hoophouse center section will be then uncoupled. Now, the mini-hoophouse can be tilted to allow access to one side. Then, tilted back to allow enty to the other side. And the exterior hoophouse will be replaced. Then the same happens for the other half. Exterior removed, and set aside. Then the interior house tilted to allow access. Before putting the exterior back on, the halfs will be reconnected together. Well, that's the plan anyway. Sorry I don't have more information. Does anyone think it is actually worth the effort of actually connecting the half-hoophouses? Rather than just having them separate, or set up that way, but just not connecting the interior halves, and only connecting the exterior? (this would allow the 1x2 to be connected at the bottom for the middle to help hold the form when removing the exterior house.)

Thanks, Mike. I am doing quite well now. I didn't have much of a garden this year because I had both my hip replacement surgeries done. Now that they are both done & over with, and I have no more pain, I plan on making up for the mediocre garden I've had the past two years with a vengence! =) Anyway, back to the dwarf lime. I brought it in thinking it would go dormant again until early Spring like it has done the past few years, when put into a somewhat controlled basement environment. I'm glad to see that it looks like you don't think it growing over this Winter (instead of being dormant) is a bad thing. Houston's point is a good one. Despite the temperature difference, it is getting light where normally in its Winter dormancy it would get almost none, therefore probably spurring the Winter growth somewhat. I am not using grow lights on it, as like I said, I was expecting it to be dormant. Should I be using some? The mix I have it in is a good fast drainable soilless mix. Mainly pine bark fine based, with some perlite, a little peat, etc.. (I can get the exact composition, if needed). The temps it's in are typical indoor temps, around 70 (+/- 2-3 degrees at times). It has lighting, but it's almost all indoor lights (I have it in a corner in my kitchen). It doesn't really get any sunlight in there. CFL bulbs I believe. I will get my fertilizer out, as I had put it away for the Winter & make sure to give it a light application on a monthly basis (or whatever you think it might need). I imagine the answer may be no to this, but better safe than sorry, so I'll ask. I have been using my typical veggie 9-3-6 with it (Foliage Pro) when I do fertilize it during normal growing months, Spring through early Fall. Is that the right NPK to use for a lime tree? If not, please let me know what ratio fertilizer you would use. It seems to have been playing well with the lime tree, as a fertilizer. She's getting pretty big, so if I see buds this year, I'll probably supplement with a 0-0-3. I will also make sure I water it like I would during a normal growing season, not barely watering it if any at all, like I have been doing in its Winter dormancy. Hope all is going well with you & thanks again for the help! :) - Steve

i'd start going for walks when it occurs. not only will you be healthier, but you'll get an idea of the acoustics of the neighborhood, and begin to learn where it's coming from. and, you can also figure out at what times it occurs. within time, you'll figure out where it's coming from, what time it occurs, and then be able to pinpoint it. sound is a strange thing; depending on the sound, and its wavelength, it might appear to be coming from different areas than it really is. get out and try to see where it's coming from. it could be very interesting to all of us.