I forgot to mention the Craftsman I mentioned has a B&S engine w/cast iron and the J.D. has a hydrostatic engine.

The operation of the 317 compared to the others may be the key. They are a hefty beast, but they won't "handle" like a lawn tractor. It would be a better tractor for someone who who use some attachments. A test drive will give you a better feel. A repairman saying to stay away from a Craftsman tractor is just sharing their opinion. Is there other motivation? I'm a repairman and i like working on the Sears/ Husqvarna tractors. Think about it. They make their money by selling their service contracts, doing service calls. They generally work well for someone such as yourself and will be easier to care for if you wish to do some of your own maintenance. For a comparison, the L series Deeres are close to the same caliber as the Sears tractor you are looking at.

fix the 317. Invest serious money in landscaping to take out stumps, level up ground and get a decent lawn started - you'll be much money ahead down the road. .

Look at used Commercial ZTR mowers. You may find a keeper. Pay a couple grand and you may never buy another mower.

Yep, RCBE has good advice--get the yard levelled out and the stumps removed. And, i say--there are lots of good used lawn and garden tractors out there. Buy the one you can afford. Don't buy a new one until you get the lawn more or less levelled out with no stumps, etc. Nothing worse than paying $2,000 or more for a tractor, and then hitting a stump or root and busting it all up!

Thanks for the advice. I wonder why these posts were never emailed to me. I thought no one had responded.

Anyway, so you don't think the 317 is too old? I don't know how much he wants for it yet but any idea how much its worth?

As for the Craftsman, that repairman based his advice on the fact that he has more Craftsman to repair than any other mower. Says I'd be wasting my money (but he wasn't talking about a used one).

Unfortunately, moerrr, I can't afford a couple grand. I'm going to be hard-pressed to come up with one grand.

Pardon my ignorance, but what's the difference between a lawn tractor and a riding mower? I thought they were the same thing.

"As for the Craftsman, that repairman based his advice on the fact that he has more Craftsman to repair than any other mower." That may have something to do with the fact the Sears is the largest retailer of power equipment- by far.... A lawn tractor is really a term that is used as riding mower. Lawn tractor, lawn /garden tractor, garden tractor could all be considered riding mowers. Personally, if your goal is just lawn cutting, the 317 is like buying an old pick up for a grocery getter in my opinion. I thought 317 have Onan engines in them which do have challenges on serviceability. None the less, a 30 year old tractor likely won't be a turn key if that is what you seek.

"I need a low maintenance machine but one that will last and do the job" LOL! don't we all! IF you find one let me know! Even the famous JD's require pre-ventive maintenance, like checking the oil and cleaning the air filter at minimum, some even change the oil, what a waste!

Nobody will give up a Good old 3 series JD Even though the 317 is no 318. it will still require maintenance and if you can't do it yourself expect to pay out the () get my meaning for repairs. You may need to get a old Ford with a brush hog, but again even thoughs need occasional maintenance. SO either way weather you buy new or used YOU WILL STILL HAVE to do PRE-VENTIVE maintenance or in another 2 years you will be look'en for another.

This reply is going to be pretty blunt but I think that it is needed.

IF.. you want a riding type of mowing machine for your property, then a "Lawn tractor" is more than adequate for a 1 acre property. Normally, a lawn tractor should last a good ten years or more if all you do with it is cut the grass on this 1 acre and you maintain it really, really well.

The problem I see in your post is your budget. You want to buy a used lawn tractor for less than a $1000.00 but you expect exceptional service from it. First of all, lawn tractors are at the very bottom price-point of the 4 wheel tractor market. As such, all makes use the lowest cost components available in order to meet the "under $2500.00 MSRP" bracket and these are the units that you see on display in Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply and your local Sears store.

If YOU buy one of these used units, you have no idea whether it was well looked after or totally neglected. Even if it has an hourmeter on it, you can't always trust what they read. Hourmeters can get disconnected or replaced or they just stop working and you don't realize that until after you bought the tractor. The point is this. You don't know how much life is left in a used lawn tractor just by looking at it.

You could go out tomorrow and buy something that looks to be a great unit that is only four years old, only to have the hydro fail on you a week later. Then what? You'll be right back to where you are right now. Sitting with a lawn tractor that you now deem to be unrepairable due to the high cost of parts and labour.

Believe me when I tell you that I totally understand the word "budget". I know what it's like to have a limited amount of disposable income. But I also know that there is a difference between spending wisely and spending foolishly. As nice as it is to have the luxury of a lawn tractor to take care of your property, maybe this is a luxury that isn't in the cards for you right now. Maybe you'd be far better off buying a high quality walk behind rotary mower such as the Honda Commercial Grade mower in the link below.

They also make a hydrostatic drive model but with a $1249.00 MSRP, it's beyond your budget. At $749.00 MSRP, the one in the link needs to be pushed but it will give you stellar service for many, many years because it is designed to meet the needs of people who cut grass for a living and use these mowers all day long, every day.

Buying NEW means you don't have to wonder about the history and NEW comes with a warranty. Buying HONDA means you are buying quality. Honda engines are legendary for long-life and ease of starting. Just so you know, I am not connected to Honda in any way but I am someone who has owned many Honda products over the years.

So, the choice is up to you. Run the risk of repeating what just happened with your Deere L series or go buy a new machine that you can afford at this point.

Here is a link that might be useful: Honda

I would only go used if you know what you are doing. You need to know what to look for in a used mower. You also need to know how to fix it. If you are not a mechanical person, used is not for you.

SusanB:

There has been a lot of great advice offered here. Allow me to add a couple more thoughts for you.

To add onto what Kompressor was saying above, where you were asking about Lawn Tractor vs Garden Tractor: They look sort of the same at first glance. They both have 4 wheels and a motor and a seat and blades... but the "Garden Tractor" is built stronger and heavier, to handle ground-engagement tasks such as light plowing and tilling. "Lawn Tractors" are lighter duty machines made mainly for mowing, and pulling lightweight implements such as spreaders and aerators. As a result, Garden Tractors are going to cost more. If you are just planning to work the grass and not the ground, then look at Lawn Tractors.

There is a saying among professional lawncare folks: All mowers cost $500 per year. Which is to say, if you're running the machine hard every day, you can buy a $500 used mower and it'll be used up in a year, or you can spend $5000 and it will last maybe 10 years (with service and maintenance).

Zoulas above made a good point: How much servicing are you prepared or able to do on your own? The preventative maintenance on these machines isn't especially difficult, but it must be done regularly and properly -- or else you wind up with a 400-pound paperweight in your yard.

If you want good reliability and don't want to spend a pile of $$, I would suggest you develop a relationship with a trusted local dealer and/or service shop that works on the brand/model you're interested in. This way you can go there in person and look at the machine, and you can know it's been checked over by a compentent mechanic who can 1) tell you it's in good shape ready to go, and 2) be there to service it and fix it if something goes wrong.

Re: What you've been told about Craftsman: Again, a repeat of all the good advice folks are offering you here -- any mower is only as good as the service and maintenance it gets. A Craftsman can serve you quite well, when used and cared for properly. And if it fits your budget on the purchase, so much the better.

I hope these advices have been helpful for you. Most of us here work on our own machines a little (or a lot) and we tend to think in terms of grabbing a wrench, and we enjoy sharing what we do with others. As for getting the posts here mailed to you, I don't know what's up with that. I select that notification option too, but it doesn't happen for me either. Feel free to email (kingleo1@aol.com) if i or anyone here can help further.

Susan: Something i forgot to tell you---if you go to look at a used machine--DO NOT go by your-self! Take a man along. Some folks who are selling a piece of used equipment will have the idea they can flim-flam a woman, but with a man along, they tend to be more honest! And some men are more educated in buying used stuff.

Thank you all very much for taking the time to give me your advice.

Rcmowser, I didn't mean I was looking for a NO maintenance. I am certainly willing to change the filter or the oil or whatever I am able to do. But I am a 4'10 woman and I live with my sister who isn't well. I try to be as handy as possible but I know my limitations. If I have to take some money out of my 401K, I will, but I certainly don't want to waste it. I know that certain brands are known to need less maintenance than others, and that there are grades of low quality, grades of med. quality and grades of high quality. I also know that spending more doesn't always mean you are getting the best. Sometimes we pay for the name.

And that does make sense that if there are more Craftsman out there, there are more that need to be repaired.

I think I may quit looking for a used machine and see if I can find a decent mid-end new one. We do have a good Toro push mower but its a lot of area and takes a long time - not to mention my arms and hands are sore for days.

Its really too bad we can't trust people today to be honest in selling used equipment like I understand they were in the "olden" days. And its a shame that woman have to take a man with them in order not to be taken advantage of. But I do understand that is the case and will certainly heed that advice.

Thanks so much.

No riding, lawn or garden tractor, is built to withstand an encounter with a stump: even a small one. Considering your budget, the size of your yard, and the obstacles you must dodge to mow it, I also advise a "good", self propelled, walk behind mower. I mowed my large yard weekly, and a 1.5 acre field at least twice a year, for over 25 years, walking behind a Gravely Convertible.

If you are physically able to do it you will do both your pocket book, and your body, a favor. There is no better exercise than walking.

I love John Deere products, but if I were a woman, I would not buy any old used John Deere riding mower being sold for less than a thousand dollars. You would just be asking for trouble, and trouble you already own.

You never said what was wrong with the one you got? if it the engine a new replacement Briggs AVS engine is $379 or so from SEW these are probably the cheapest engines you can get for a LT? And can easily be replaced by anybody that has worked on a bicycle. matter of unbolting, remembering what you took off, and bolting it backup, servicing with gas and oil, priming for starting, and looking for leaks. takes about 1 to 3 hours.

On the other had the JD317 has probably the most expensive engine to replace at $2000 to $2500 and that's if you do it? Not to mention the hydrostat transmission which may be Obsolete?

Stay away from LT1000s and LT2000's. GT3000 to 6000s would OK

IF you have somebody with a truck or trailer you can shop craiglist or estate sales, but again expect to pay for $600 to 1500 for a reasonable good LT and maybe drive 100 miles to get one.

Hi, guys. Thanks to every one of you for taking the time to give me your advice and explain some stuff in such detail, esp. Kompressor. And I appreciate James' advice on the Sears Craftsman. You didn't hear back from me because the day after my sister and I purchased a lawn tractor, my sister had a double heart bypass. She's coming home today and is in for a long recovery.

I'm sure you're all wondering what I finally decided to do and if I took your advice to heart. Well, what you said about buying used ones made sense so I decided not to buy a used one. I felt more comfortable knowing it was new and didn't buy someone else's problem. Sears was having their Family and Friends sale and I was considering the Craftsman YT4000 (James really liked that one) but as it turned out, the YT3000 (Model 28822) had a lot of really good reviews and there was very little difference between it and the YT4000 (28928).
YT3000 is 21hp, 4000 is 24 hp
3000 deck is 42", 4000 is 46"
3000 had 3-1/2 star rating, 4000 had 3
3000 was $300 cheaper (+tax)
Both have hydrostatic B&S engines
The oil can on the 3000 much more easily accessible than on the 4000.
3000 has only 1 cylinder, 4000 has 2 (don't know if that was important or what it means); no hour meter on the 3000

It was on sale from $1750 for $1299 and an additional $130 off - bottom line I paid $1169.00 and saved $600 w/tax so I think I got a really good deal. I've used it twice and so far I love it. Wish the deck were a little bigger, oh well. It cut some very high wet weeds very well (I know I should avoid wet but didn't have a choice unless I wanted to go out there with a scissors...NOT). Its got a lot of power. Now maybe I won't get fined or thrown out of the neighborhood!

One of the cons that was mentioned was the position of the gas tank - very close to the engine. Very stupid design.

rustyj14, my next project will be to get some fill dirt and remove the stumps (when I get some money) but in the meantime, I put out tons of bright flags from HD and didn't hit any stumps.

James, I didn't get to ask about the fuel shutoff valve. What's involved in installing one?

One last question - I have 2 weeks to decide whether to buy their $300 3-year warranty. It would start from day 1, not after the mfr's warranty, and it covers in-home service.

Don't waste any more money on the ext. warantee. Any of the disposable new rider mowers will last 2-4 years, with no problems. After that, good luck.

I just sold a 4 year old rider (one of the 100 or so, brands made by MTD) Paid $1000, and was thrilled to get $550.

Replaced it with a 22 year old Wheelhorse 14HP/42" cut. Much, much better built machine. 3 1/2 less hp than the MTD, but much more power.

BTW, the difference between a Lawn Tractor (riding mower) and a Garden Tractor, is, the Garden Tractors are designed for attachments, and have a PTO (power take off) to run the attachments. Sort of a mini tractor.

I paid $500 for it with a WH trailer to tow behind it. It was orig owner, serviced by dealer every year, and needed nothing.

For a new rider, you got what you can get for that price.

I know someone who buys a new Murray small rider every 4-5 years or so, as they die after that time. He has a lot of spare parts from the old ones! Of course, most of the parts are the ones that don't wear out in 5 years!

Good Luck

Might i give you several tips on the care of the new machine?
A fuel shut off valve costs around $5 at the mower shop. You can install it in the fuel line coming from the tank to the carburetor (carb), by cutting the fuel line, inserting the valve, and use hose clamps to keep the line from leaking. If the engine has fuel pump, a valve may not be needed, especially if the tank is lower than the seat (under it).
And, especially-here's how to check the engine oil level, prior to starting it: Pull out the dip-stick, wipe it with a rag, stick it back in, and out again, to get the true oil reading. When an engine has been run, the oil will stay way up on the dip-stick, and if you only stick it once, and even after a week or more, the oil that was splashed high on the stick will not run off, and that makes the uninitiated say:"Oh, heck, how did all of that oil get into the engine!?"
Well, i hope the new machine gives you good service. And remember---check the oil as i said to do it. and keep it clean! Enjoy! Rusty Jones, the mower man.

Hi Susan,

Welcome back! Sorry to hear about your sister's heart troubles. Good thing is, most people feel much better after getting that bypass and getting the blood flowing again, so here's to hoping she has a good recovery.

You asked about the fuel cutoff valve. As Rusty said you can get one from the dealer, or from Amazon like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_9?url=search-alias%3Dgarden&field-keywords=fuel+shut+off+valve&sprefix=fuel+shut

How to put it in: When the tank is empty, take a sharp pair of sissors and find a point about midway down the length of the fuel line. Make a clean cut through the fuel line. A little gas might drip out, just wipe it up with a rag, and then insert the cutoff valve between the two pieces of hose you just cut.

There will be a little arrow on the valve indicating the direction of fuel flow -- install the valve so that arrow points to the engine.

The valve is open when the paddle is in line with the hose. It's closed when the paddle is crossways to the hose.

When you get finished mowing, just reach down there and turn off the valve, and you'll be assured gas won't leak past the needle valve in the carb, which will flow down through the cylinder and dilute your motor oil (bad thing).

You are allowed one (1) free pass on forgetting to turn the shutoff valve back on, while you're sitting on your mower next week wondering why it won't start . After that, you'll probably never forget to turn it on before starting -- ask me how I know this (smile).

OK, happy mowing! Keep us posted how it goes, and maybe I'll share the Mower's Creed with you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Briggs Fuel Shutoff Valves from Amazon

Or do it the way us old flat rate mechanics do it.
Pinch the fuel line closed with a pair of vise grips, and cut the line for the filter. No need to have an empty tank.
Or, do it fast and don't bother with the vise grips!

Thanks all.
James, good instructions but I'm too scared to cut through anything! I may ask my neighbor to do it.

No, id Susan sees this...how'd the rider turn our after all these years...

Amazing, pretty good unbiased advice here. I've had old mowers of all different brands and they all generally break down eventually. Even the so-called bullet proof mowers will break down over time from use. It really depends on what you need the mower for and how much stress will be put upon it. However, I have used old cheap mowers that refused to stop working no matter how hard they were pushed. So, buy what you can afford in the best condition you can find and hope that it lasts and works well. It's kind of like buying an automobile, the better they are maintained the more likely they will usually last ... most of the time. You just never know though.