Echoman, I'm just questioning it. Unless stabilizer can be condensed so something less then .1 oz, the removal of oil from the mix could get dicy. Besides, bad fuel from whatever cause is not a warranty problem anyway. The wrong oil or bad fuel is going to show up as excess staining or varnish on piston and cylinder which should be a flag to any shop that carb or CAT problems were caused by the fuel mix. Not saying the oil doesn't have a proper amount of super condensed stabilizer but just questionable enough in my mind to go ahead and use an additive to make sure.

For those of you interested in the materials used, manufacture location, etc. for the Novaform (by Sleep Innovations) memory foam & gel-memory foam mattresses, check out this FAQ link. Boy was I glad to find out that the first mattress my husband and I purchased (2 years ago) as newly-weds, the gel memory foam, is free of PDBF/Formaldehyde and it is made in the USA. The reason we purchased this mattress was because it helps alleviate pressure-points which was crucial for us to have considering that my husband had recently underwent back surgery. In the two years we have had this mattress, he is still pleased with this purchase; and needless to say, so am I. I understand that comfort is a personalized type of thing, and being that I myself prefer a "in-between/medium" support (not too hard, not too soft), this was a great buy. We live at an altitude of about 5K, so in the 2 years we've had this mattress, the gel portion of the mattress is a bit more stiff when not in use during the winter, then eventually softens up with the applied body-heat; and during the passer-by summers, it is continually soft. Just a heads up! ;-) http://www.sleepinnovations.com/support/faqs/#1

I devoured this thread for months and finally went to Lowe's to look at these planks. When I first looked at them in the store I thought they looked so fake and cheesy that I almost gave up, but I brought a few home and set them on the floor. They looked good! It seems that most people have good results as long as they follow the directions really carefully and don't use professionals to install the floor. It also seems that the trouble comes when the climate is really hot or humid. But, just to make sure that we weren't the unlucky ones, I installed it in my entryway first to see how it would hold up on our concrete slab. I pulled up sheet vinyl and scraped off the remaining mastic, used the Henry's and it went down and stayed. I am a dog walker/pet sitter and we board dogs, all different kind of dogs, at our house and we needed something durable and easy to clean and this has fit the bill. I installed it in our entire downstairs myself. Everyone loves it and thinks it's either wood or laminate and several neighbors want to put it in themselves. I've noticed vinyl flooring everywhere now, including high end stores. Thanks to everyone for recommending this flooring and for the terrific tips. Here are a few of my own: 1) Definitely prep, prep, prep the floor. I scraped up mastic and glue from the carpet pad. I didn't use adhesive remover because one site I saw said it may soak into the concrete and interfere with adherence. The key is clean, dry and smooth. 2) The instructions on the box and the Novalis website recommend the self-stick tile primer. It is a must - it goes on really thin and dries clear in about half an hour. 3) Take your time when laying the tiles and get them as tight and straight as you can. 4) I found some walnut wood filler that I used in some of the tricky spots and it worked great. 5) Definitely let the planks sit in your house for 48 hours before installation. 6) I ordered OOPS! Painters wipes which Novalis recommends to remove excess adhesive. They also recommend them to remove the white "scratches" which Novalis calls scuff marks. I found that the wipes didn't work on the scuff marks, but time does. They eventually wear away. 7) I didn't use a rolling pin, but did baby steps on the tiles once they were down. There are a few that I missed and they sound funny. I have not had any scratches from dog's nails, but we did have some from broken dishes. It's not as noisy as laminate, but it is hard - almost like walking on concrete. I love this flooring and am so glad to have put it in. I am a middle aged woman and did it by myself. I took my time and did one section at a time and it came out great! Here is a link that might be useful:

Let's talk glass and spacers and LowE and argon from the videos. First, and not mentioned in any of the videos that I recall, Andersen, Marvin, Pella, and Weathershield all use Cardinal glass and Cardinal LowE coatings. In the Andersen to WS comparison video, Mr. Hauser explains that while AW uses a stainless steel metal block spacer, which is bad, WS uses a structural foam silicon (he said silicon) spacer which is good. Per Mr. Hauser the metallic spacer conducts cold into the house in winter and conducts heat into the house in summer, but fails to mention exactly how this change in thermal polarity is actually accomplished. While the WS foam spacer blocks ALL heat and cold transference because it's not metal. Clearly the non-metal is better. Gotta love all the useful information in full view on the foam spacer though. In the WS to Pella video Mr. Hauser forgoes any mention of spacers preferring to talk specifically on glass performance, i.e. U factor, LowE coatings, argon fill, etc. On this I give him props for trying although he kind of messes up some of the specifics about how this stuff actually works. He did mention for example that argon was used for convection, but then went on to describe it as conduction...but he does get the point across. He does mention both products are energy star and finally mentions that WS has glass options that could possibly outperform Pella, which is simply wrong. And to the Marvin to WS glass comparison. Starts off taking about single pane to dual pane then adds in LowE coatings which are "...a metallic alloy that is sprayed on the inside portion of the glass". That description makes me cringe but...nope nothing more, it makes me cringe. Next he talks about argon fill which is 38% denser than oxygen and so blocks heat and cold passing through the glass. If comments were available I would have asked, "since oxygen is 21% of our air, what about the 78% that is nitrogen? How does argon fill affect that? Next he states that both products can be energy star rated and both can be equal, "but we (WS) should be able to outperform them" (Marvin)". Remember when stainless steel / metal spacer was bad in the Andersen comparison? Apparently that is no longer true because next he mentions how both Marvin and WS are using a stainless steel spacer system, then looks visits the Marvin window first. Mr. Hauser states that this appears to be excess glue related to the spacer Marvin is using, but he doesn't know what caused it. I have no doubt that is a totally honest appraisal of what he sees there, but actually this is an issue with glazing the glass into the sash, this is NOT from the spacer. Clearly this is unsightly and in my opinion is totally unacceptable and should be replaced, but I can't speak to the warranty covering what happened to this sash. Knowing Marvin reasonably well, I would expect that they would replace this sash under warranty, but again that's only my personal opinion. Then showing the WS window that uses the Cardinal Endur stainless steel spacer system. This is an upgrade from the system used in the Andersen video. Apparently it's now okay to use the premium stainless steel spacer now. Cardinal has two different Stainless steel spacer systems, XL and Endur. XL is the older system Endur being the newer. Marvin, Andersen, Pella and WS all have access to and use both systems depending on their preference. The primary difference is that Endur is about 2°F warmer at the edge than XL. Long term durability and longevity should be pretty much identical. He then goes on to explain an NFRC sticker, once again saying that despite using the same glass and glazing system, WS can outperform Marvin (or Andersen or Pella in previous videos). The final thing I want to mention is the air and water dam that WS uses on this window. I find it very aesthetically displeasing. Actually I think it's ugly and looks very unprofessional. It also concerns me that they think they need it, while Mr. Hauser speaks of it as a plus that no one else uses. That white thing sticking up Definitely not a fan of that "board" at the base of the window. The bottom rail slides behind it and is partially covered by it when closed. To me that alone is a reason to be very wary of this product.