Is the Bermuda a common or hybrid? I ask because density is important when selecting the fertilizer. A close mown hybrid is way too tight for a Urea prill. However, if your mowing above an inch, it likely won't make much difference. I personally would avoid Urea ( 46-0-0 ). It does little but cause excessive growth, bump the color a bit, and maybe provide you 4-6 weeks of performance. And as noted above, it also has high burn potential if misapplied. And with a warm day, you may volatilize a third of it away before you get the water on. Another less expensive option is 21-0-0 if available. A cheap quick 3-4 weeks of color and growth. Typically called ammonium sulfate. I'd suggest going to a professional turf and landscape outlet. JDL, etc will generally carry a wide range of fertilizers for all types of budgets. Take a look at the slow release nitrogens (SRN), especially SCU's (sulfur coated urea ) and the PCU's (polymer coated urea). Generally, you'll find them in mixtures ( both fast and slow release N ) which provide the quick greenup and the long, slow release. When you look around, ask for products containing at least 40% SRN. Anything less really isn't worth the investment. There are PCU blends out there that will comfortably provide 12-16 weeks of moderate growth and attractive turf. Yes, they're more expensive, but typically pound for pound, and week for week, ( plus your labor and clippings! ), they're worth the money.

Oyy!! Sometimes I wonder if folks really read these things before replying?? Or better yet, read their own responses before sending :-)) Since alfalfa/alfalfa meal is an excellent organic source of nitrogen, the likelihood of its nitrogen content just "flowing out" of any soil is remote. Organic nutrient sources are extremely disinclined to leach, regardless of soil type and the amount of OM in the soil. That is just the nature of organically sourced fertilizers. And since the soil mix for the raised beds is pretty heavy with the bark fines, I'd personally be inclined to go a bit heavier in my N application. Those bark fines can tie up a lot of N as they continue to breakdown and decompose.

sanddaal, what kinds of fertilizers have you been using and how often? Have you ever had a soil test done? Without one, it is impossible to know what kind of fertilizer - if any - needs to be applied and in what concentration. Fertilization is never a requirement. Plants access the nutrients they need for a healthy and productive life from the soil via their root system. In many cases, what they need is already present in the soil in sufficient quantity. Applying ferts when not needed can be counterproductive. N is used in the largest concentration but it is the most mobile nutrient and moves through the soil rapidly. It is often deficient as a result but also the easiest replaced. P&K are used in much lower concentrations but are also fairly immobile and tend to persist in the soil long term. Only a soil test will tell you if you have any need to supplement.

Although it may be too late in your area, plant kale or any other cool weather leafy crop. Yes, I would cover the beds with a mulch. Very early in the spring, get a soil test done; then plant early spinach, kale, and brassicas. Any excess Nitrogen which hasn't leeched away, gassed off, or used in decomp will be used up by those early crops. You didn't have toxic amounts of N, or this years plantings would have failed. You may have had as you suspected, a little too much for the fruiting plants. By the time you are harvesting the spring crops, your soil test will have come back from your county ext. You'll know exactly how fertile your soil is and you'll be in good shape for the summer.