skip to main content

Craftsman 15.5HP OHV will not crank initially

16 years ago

I have an 11 year old Craftsman 15.5HP OHV riding mower. Model # 917.258532. When I try to start it, I turn the key and only hear a click. This happens at least 3 or more times before the motor turns over and it cranks. It always cranks the first time the motor turns over.

Is this a solenoid problem?

Is this a starter problem?

Is this a brush problem?

How can I test to see what the problem is?

Thanks and have a great evening.

John

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (15)

walt2002
16 years ago
Probably needs the valves adjusted. It would help if we had the make and model number of the engine.

Walt Conner
0
john24689
Original Author
16 years ago
It is a Briggs & Stratton motor.
0
Related Discussions
where is a short most common in mtd yard machine model 287707?
Q
Comments (7)
287707 is a Briggs Model #. That and the TYPE# properly identify which Briggs 287707. Likely that has a 3 AMP charging system which is simply a diode. IF so,the plug from the stator would have a Red and a Black wire. The mating plug would have a Red & a White wire. The connector has the diode encased. Red would be DC output for charging and White would be AC for lights. This is the diode that gets used for a replacement. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591 IF the diode is shorted, you'll get AC to the battery which kills it. That might also fry the stator if it is hard wired to the battery. Best test is to disconnect the plug and measure the output of the Red lead from the stator. It should be around 14+ VDC since there is no load. Also measure for AC, which shouldn't be present. IF Open, you simply don't get any charging. Tests at HIGH engine speed. IF the tractor has headlights, simply check to see if they work first. IF they don't, the stator is probably fried. Engine must be running.
...See More
15.5 hp OHV B&S backfiring through carburetor
Q
Comments (17)
@walt2002, hey i was wondering if you were still here, i have read many of your replies and was hoping to hear from you and mownie, you 2 seem to have a wealth of knowledge on these things, i will try the carb first, because it is the easier than the head, but how would the carb cause fire to pop in the carb? im no genius but it seems compression is coming through the carb, and with the few parts in the carb, even no diaphragm, i cant under stand how it would be bad, do they have a ball and spring behind a welch plug like the old model walbro carbs?, i remember years ago when i worked on them a rule of thumb was if you shook them and heard no rattle they were no good, it had something to do with a barometric pressure adjuster valve, you didnt have to adjust the carb in higher locations as you did a b&s carb, just wondering, because i cleaned the carb twice, i put it in a bowl of water while disassembled and used a small straw to blow air through every hole, got bubbles on all, but i will swap them anyway and see, i just want to know what it is, thanks for your advice man
...See More
Briggs 19.5 twin turbo tractor will not start
Q
Comments (58)
hello HU-407961074 I am not going to read through all the comments above. Hope you have tried their suggestions. This is long. The original part number is 394891. B&S changed the part number to 590781 when they switched to a chinese supplier. The retail price for this item is close to $60.00. All the cheap armature ignitions on the internet may work ok, but I don't know. The original ignition seldom fails. Mice destroyed your sparkplug wires. Another failure occurs when the key switch fails and voltage is introduced into the armature coil shut off wire. When the key is turned off, the shutoff wire should be connected to ground only. Any voltage will instantly destroy a new armature coil. Corrosion on the mounting post and mounting screws is another problem that will cause loss of ignition. A shorted shutoff wire will also cause a problem. When installing a new armature coil, clean the mounting post to insure a good connection. A small wire brush will work fine. Make sure there is no corrosion on the armature laminated stack. The mounting screws must be clean. Direction of installation is marked on the armature coil. With the armature pulled away from the flywheel, tighten the screws. Rotate the flywheel until the magnets are next to the armature. Install a spacer (.008 - .012) between the armature and the magnets. A business card will usually work. Loosen the screws and the armature will be attracted to the magnets. Tighten the screws. Remove the card by rotating the flywheel. Feed the ignition wires to the sparkplugs but do not install. Leave the shut off wire disconnected. Connect the sparkplug leads to an air gap ignition tester. The tester should have a .166 gap. Approximately 13,000 volts is needed to jump the .166 gap. If you do not have the proper tester, make your own. Connect the ignition tester to the engine block - not the spark plugs. NOTE: The glow light ignition testers do not always work well, so do not use. These will glow at a voltage too low to start a small engine. You can test for ignition now - even with the blower shroud removed. You will need to hold the oil filler in position so it does not blow out. Care is needed with a rotating flywheel. Look at the spark tester for ignition. A spark can be blue, amber, or invisible. A darken area may be needed when performing this test. Before connecting the shut off wire, you must insure the key switch is not feeding voltage and that the off position connects to ground. Install the blower shroud. Sparkplugs may have carbon or oil on the porcelain. This may form a carbon trail for the voltage to follow and you will never see a spark. A crack in the porcelain will also cause loss of spark. If your flywheel key is sheared, the engine may not start due to incorrect timing, however you should still have spark. If the engine does not start after ignition is restored and timing is restored, ask questions.
...See More
Best Engine made.
Q
Comments (51)
I put a new Briggs 16 HP cast iron engine (Model 326437) in our 1971 or 2 Gilson. Did this in 1983, and installed an hour meter at the same time. The engine now has well over 1000 hours and just this summer began burning oil. On taking it apart, the valves and valve seats were still excellent, the bore showed almost no wear, and the crankshaft connecting rod journal looks good and is within the Briggs' manual reject limits. The piston was the main sufferer. It has an eroded top land near the exhaust valve side. I've ordered a new standard size piston, connecting rod, and a set of very pricey chromium plated piston rings. These are no longer sold by Briggs, but I found set from a parts supplier. When the engine was new I added an oil filter and have used Mobil 1 synthetic ever since, 20-50 weight. Also clean the air filter regularly, oil the foam band around the air filter, and change the oil when it looks dirty, which is often much more than the 25 hours recommended by Briggs. I believe that other engine brands would do as well, or better given equal care. My favorite engine is the little Kubota on our ZTR.
...See More
bill_kapaun
16 years ago
The engine should be a Briggs 28N707-0173

When the starter does engage, does it crank the engine "promptly", or does it labor?
0
walt2002
16 years ago
"It is a Briggs & Stratton motor."

Model numbers are critical.

Walt Conner
0
zoomie
16 years ago
Your mower sounds like the same mower I have. It has the Kohler Command engine. The valves are not an issue with this problem but it sounds like a battery going bad. Possible a dead cell. I have had this problem but it comes and goes. Sometimes it will crank right away and then other you have to hit the key a few times for it to start. Sorry I dont have a definate answer.
0
walt2002
16 years ago
"Your mower sounds like the same mower I have. It has the Kohler Command engine. The valves are not an issue with this problem "

Valves "are not an issue with this problem" for Kohlers because Kohlers have hydrolic lifters which do not require adjusting.

These symptoms are quit common with OHV B&S engines which have mechanical lifters with B&S suggesting adjusting the valves once a season. The Compression Release operates thru the Intake Valve, excessive clearance does not allow the Compression Release to work properly.

There are other things that can cause these same symptoms but valve adjustment is most common on this engine. I have sent out probably 100 sets of instructions over the last year for adjusting valves on OHV B&S engines including 2 this past week.

Walt Conner
0
john24689
Original Author
16 years ago
The motor is a B&S Model 28N707 Type 0173-01
Code 970325ZB

When it does start, it fires immediately. It does not labor to start. The problem is the number of times I only get a Click when I try to start it. Nothing else. After a number of Clicks, it finally starts without any problem.
0
bill_kapaun
16 years ago
You might have a bad solenoid, but first make sure you check ALL the battery connection. That includes ground connections too! Battery neg to frame, engine to frame & starter to engine block.
0
walt2002
16 years ago
You will have to do some checking yourself. Could be battery, battery cable connections, solenoid, starter OR valve adjustment,even safety switches.

You may be bumping up against compression and taking several bumps to get past it the first time without the compression release working.

Jump with a good set of jumper cables directly from a good battery to the starter. IF it now works OK you will know starter and compression release are working.

Use a small wire to jumper from the battery cable connection on the solenoid to the small center terminal on the solenoid. IF it works now, you will know the trouble is up stream from the solenoid. Key switch, safety switches. Doesn't work, battery, connections, solenoid.

Walt Conner
0
techdave
16 years ago
Turn on fan to ventilate all fumes from area, hav eextinguisher at teh ready, wear full eye AND face protection. Jump across the two big terminals on the solenoid, if it cranks over, the solenoid is bad.

USUALLY if it clicks but no crank, this is the most efficient test to run. BUT

YOU can set your self on fire, or blind yourself if soemthing goes wrong.
0
walt2002
16 years ago
"Jump across the two big terminals on the solenoid, if it cranks over, the solenoid is bad."

Not necessarily. I have seen many instances where old safety switches or bad ignition switch did not conduct enough current to cause the solenoid to make a "good" hit, solenoid was good, just not making good contact. Replaced a bunch of solenoids on Kawasaki (expensive) in particular before learning this.

Walt Conner
0
vlasic88_yahoo_com
16 years ago
Walt2002, the valve problem you spoke of is affecting me right now. Almost to the point that I want a new engine. I broke a keyhole that holds the spring. I have reassembled and the thing will only backfire. I have taken it apart more than ten times and cannot fix the problem. Any ideas?

B&S 28n707 type 0173-01
0
danmcm
13 years ago
please send me directions on how to adjust valves on B&S motor. Please.email mcmanningl@pcsb.org
0
durant_kreider_gmail_com
13 years ago
please e-mail me instructions on how to adjust these valves too. currently the only way I can start the engine is to only screw in the plug a few threads so there is a compression leak because the compression relief isn't working during initial cranking. I replaced the starter, solenoid and jumped it right to the starter which just smokes until I relieve the compression and then it cranks right up and runs like a top. My only concern is that I will eventually blow the loose plug out.
0
craigcrosson_yahoo_com
13 years ago
HEY WALT: I was given a 10 yr old craftsman mower yesterday that the man said he got tired of having trouble starting. He said if he jumped it and "helped" turn the top of the engine by hand it would start and run like a champ. My engine number is a bit different from wht is listed above. it is Model 28N707, Type 1173-E1, Code 9708072E. Any assistance would be appreciated.
0

Related Stories

ACCESSORIES Easy Green: Cut Electricity Use With 15 Unplugged Home Devices

By Laura Gaskill

Crank up the energy savings, courtesy of household items that come into power the old-fashioned way: manually

MY HOUZZ My Houzz: New Features for a 1912 Craftsman Gem

By Teness Herman

A decade of remodeling integrates modern styling into a Portland, Oregon, home for a family of 4

BEFORE AND AFTERS 15 Dramatic Fireplace Transformations

By Bryan Anthony

Tired of your old fireplace? Get inspired by these before-and-after photos for living room style all year

REMODELING GUIDES Considering a Fixer-Upper? 15 Questions to Ask First

By Sarah Phipps Design

Learn about the hidden costs and treasures of older homes to avoid budget surprises and accidentally tossing valuable features

ARCHITECTURE 15 Smart Design Choices for Cold Climates

By Laura Gaskill

Keep your home safe and comfortable in winter by choosing the right home features and systems

LIFE 15 Love Notes to Oddities of the Home

By Vanessa Brunner

It can take time to fully appreciate a house, warts and all. Houzzers share examples of quirks they've learned to love

CRAFTSMAN DESIGN My Houzz: Small-Space Living in a Restored Bungalow

By Bonnie McCarthy

See how this homeowner celebrates his personal style, his flea market finds and the heritage of his 1919 Long Beach home

LIVING ROOMS How to Decorate a Small Living Room

By Laura Gaskill

Arrange your compact living room to get the comfort, seating and style you need

MOVING 5 Risks in Buying a Short-Sale Home — and How to Handle Them

By Christine Tusher

Don’t let the lure of a great deal blind you to the hidden costs and issues in snagging a short-sale property

ECLECTIC STYLE 5 Reasons to Hit That Secondhand Store

By Laura Gaskill

New things have their place, but old things have a history and beauty all their own

Sponsored

Nova Design Build

Custom Premiere Design-Build Contractor | Hilliard, OH

More Discussions

Mower Blade rotation

1

Battery question on John Deere E130

2