Yep starter motor is dead took it back to HD the guy pounded on the motor with a mallet and it started, they gave me a new one and it started right up. Only the new one is a 6.75hp the old one was 6.5hp same model # exactly but this is a different engine ?

Its hard to say why the starter gear got chewed up.It might have been improperly installed when it was put on or the starter gear may have stuck causing the flywheel ring gear to chew it up. The question is why didn"t they put a new gear on the starter. By the way its a tecumseh engine and starter not a toro product they just build blower not the engine. The reason it is so expensive for a replacement is that the factory in canada that made the tecumseh starters and kawi starters burned down and availability is at a premium price. Just curious but did they check the flywheel key for shearing that could have been the reason for your hardstarting and blue spark. If they gave you the starter back I would look into a replacement drive kit for it. good luck JIM

The conversion would be very expensive. You would be better off trading it for an electric start version, IF you can find one. There are no Honda snowblowers available here.

"I then opened the receptacle and put my multimeter probes on leg A and neutral, it read 118V and when I pressed the start button the it dropped to 0V and leg B was at 240V." Leg B was at 240V relative to what? What type of receptacle are you using? "Three prong" covers a lot of receptacle/plug types. Perhaps comparison to the chart at http://www.stayonline.com/reference-nema-straight-blade.aspx will help identify it. Ideally, dryers are wired to four-wire systems, two hot conductors, the neutral conductor, and the grounding conductor. The neutrals are grounded only at the breaker box. Older dryers used three conductor systems, two hot and one neutral conductors. The chassis should be separately grounded in such cases. I can imagine, however, a design intended to operate purely from 240 Vac and having two hot conductors and a grounding conductor. Does the non-hot lead of the cable to the dryer have a low or high resistance to the dryer chassis? Another possible consideration is that military electrical wiring, particularly in field conditions (even as mature as those at Kuwait, for example) are notorious for being poorly wired, even sometimes leading to electrocutions. Is it possible that your dryer wiring was modified in the field to conform with whatever power source configuration was present? kas The Electrical Wiring forum may be better tailored to your question than the Laundry forum.